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Crew, My power steering has always been just a bit weird. One you first start the truck it's very stiff but loosens up after the first turn, until last week. Now it feels like I have no power steering. The reservoir has fluid, the belt is less than 6 months old and not slipping. Is this possibly a power steering pump gone bad?
Second question is brakes. Pads and rotors are 6-7 months old. Fluid levels all good. About a month ago my brake light came on at the dash. The real issue is I have to use a lot of brake to stop and almost stomping it down at a light to prevent the truck from moving. Any ideas what that could be
Wadaya mean by "stomping"? Pushing hard or too much travel?
If you're pushing hard I'd say a booster or vacuum problem. The light sounds like air or rear adjustment problem causing the proportioning valve to move too much.
You don't have hydro boost do you?
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Did the pump ever whine or buzz loudly when turning the wheels at low RPM?
If the pump is not defective the problem could be in the steering gear itself. There is a shuttle valve on top, where the pressure hose connects that can get clogged with gunk which causes the moving ball to get sticky or stuck.
The red brake lamp will come on if the brake proportioning valve sees fluid going to one side/end of the system. If say, all or too much fluid is going to the rear brakes, the valve will move to one end and turn on the lamp.
A parking brake that is slightly engaged will turn the lamp on as well.
I would agree with SJTD that your brake issue is likely the vacuum booster. The next likely culprit would be a leaking wheel cylinder/caliper or even a fluid leak in the brake lines. If you have disc brakes I wager the problem is in the rear since 60% or so of braking is done by the front. If the proportioning valve is biased to the rear the discs don't get as much fluid pressure as normal...making it hard to stop.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
SJTD wrote:Wadaya mean by "stomping"? Pushing hard or too much travel?
If you're pushing hard I'd say a booster or vacuum problem. The light sounds like air or rear adjustment problem causing the proportioning valve to move too much.
You don't have hydro boost do you?
I really have to press the brake pedal hard to get the car to stop and to hold it at a light ( i know i am idling a tad high at about 1000 RPMs)
Tatsadasayago wrote:Did the pump ever whine or buzz loudly when turning the wheels at low RPM?
If the pump is not defective the problem could be in the steering gear itself. There is a shuttle valve on top, where the pressure hose connects that can get clogged with gunk which causes the moving ball to get sticky or stuck.
No there has never been any sound
Where is this exactly on the pump itself or on the steering box? If so how do I clear it
The red brake lamp will come on if the brake proportioning valve sees fluid going to one side/end of the system. If say, all or too much fluid is going to the rear brakes, the valve will move to one end and turn on the lamp.
A parking brake that is slightly engaged will turn the lamp on as well.
I would agree with SJTD that your brake issue is likely the vacuum booster. The next likely culprit would be a leaking wheel cylinder/caliper or even a fluid leak in the brake lines. If you have disc brakes I wager the problem is in the rear since 60% or so of braking is done by the front. If the proportioning valve is biased to the rear the discs don't get as much fluid pressure as normal...making it hard to stop.
I forgot to add:
With the engine idling in gear, push on the brake pedal to keep the jeep stopped. Lighten up the pressure just a small amount and note if the pedal seems to drop a bit. Repeat this a few more times.
When brake pressure is released a small amount with a defective booster, the pedal will drop slightly each time.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
On the brake issue. Key off when you press on the brake the pedal comes up a little more each time as it should but if you keep your foot on the pedal it just sinks. So it's like the brake booster is working but possibly blowing past the master cylinder but not getting any leaking at the brakes. May replace both the master cylinder and booster.
Replacing the power steering pump tomorrow
With the engine off a few pumps of the pedal will use up all the stored vacuum and the pedal will become hard. If it drops further..like almost to the floor, then it's a master cylinder issue.
As a general rule, if I replace one, I replace both.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
OK, update on steering. I replaced the Power steering box with a reman cardone unit. It's like a new truck. Returns to center, one finger and you can turn the wheels even with 31X10.5X15 tires. Still working on brakes. Got a new master cylinder waiting for the power booster to show up so I can do it all at one time.
Ok well the power steering pump did not fix the issue. It returned within a week. Today I spent a couple of hours replacing the steering box with a cardone reman unit. While in the air I when the steering box was disconnected I turned the wheel and it turned smooth so it's not the steering column. But once everything was connected it was worse than ever. I bled the system and certainly got lots of bubbles out of the system. Now It's like driving a farm tractor. Two hands to try to get the wheel to turn. Not safely drive able and clearly not right. What else could it be. I need to get my truck back on the road. Any ideas
Well finally sorted it out. I replaced my PS pump again and used new pressure and return lines the second time around. everything works fine now. Just wanted to update the thread. If you replace the PS Pump, spend the $20 and get new lines.