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twmattox wrote:I run Valvoline with STP. According to STP, they add ZDDP to their product.
I know that we go through this same conversation every couple of years but I remember STP wouldn't tell anyone how much ZDDP they have in their additive but someone found out and it was less than what it's in the O'reilly house brand oil additive and both were more than what would have been in 5qts of the old oil spec.
There's also some literature out there that says after a cam is worn in that ZDDP doesn't really help but I don't subscribe to that theory. I use walmarts "super tech" 10w-40 with a bottle of STP or O'reilly oil additive in my J-10, Castrol syntec in both my newer Jeeps.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
I have nerded out on what weight/type of oil to use and I am sure that I have found it.
Chevron Delo 5w-40. Comes in three flavors conventional, semi synthetic, and full synthetic.
Cold flow kicks the crap out of 10-30, better protection hot than 10-30, and it doesn't shear down like 10-30 does.
The semi synthetic and conventional flavors are CJ-4 rated and have higher zinc levels than Rotella. The full synthetic has a little less zinc, but it has plenty to protect your cam.
And it is the cheapest high zinc synthetic option at 17 bucks a gallon.
A change of the semi synthetic lasted me 3000 miles in severe service. So far at 3000 on this change of full synthetic the oil is still golden and clear!
I learned something about Rotella that steered me away. It's paraffin based just like Pennzoil. Rotella is made by Pennzoil!
After seeing the waxy build up on every surface from the old 401 I will not run a Pennzoil product again.
I collapsed a FRAM oil filter on the old 401 and I am positive that led to the oil starvation in the main bearings!
Use Napa store brand, wix, purolator, or Bosch!
If you want THE BEST use a Bosch Distance Plus. The Blue one.
The best filter for semi synthetic and conventional is the Bosch Premium.
The best discount filters are Napa store brand filters. They are wix in a different box.
If you shop at other stores get Wix or Purolator.
Don't waste your money on O'Reilly store brand filters. Good for break in and nothing else. The microgaurd filters use 2/3 the filter material of there name brand Purolator counterparts. If you shop at O'Rileys get the Wix.
Napa store brand filters are Wix. No difference in quality or amount of filter media.
I can't speak for advance auto or carquest as they have lost my business. Word on the street is that carquest uses Wix.
I run the conventional 15W40 Rotella in my Jeeps. The Delo may be better - it's direct competition for the Rotella. And it's available at Walmart!
The rationale I heard for using the diesel oils in our engines is that diesels have high piston pin loading, with pressures similar to the flat tappets in our engines. The additive packet in diesel oil (whether that be ZDDP or other high-pressure additives) is beneficial to flat tappet engines.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
OK-I really don't like when these posts show up on forums. Sorry for the following rant but I see this on every forum I'm on.
Most of what you read is a Coke or Pepsi argument. You can google and find stuff that supports either side of any of these arguments. If you like brand-x oil and it has the right API designations, I'm sure you won't have any issues. If you have a highly worn engine, then another product might be ok. When I read about people saying they tried brand-B and it ruined their engine, you have no idea the condition of their engine to start with, how they maintain their engine etc. If you've owned the truck since you drove it off the dealer lot, that's one thing-most of us are 2-5 owners in on older rigs.
The only way to test oil, oil filters etc is through comparison testing on test engines under controlled conditions. Everything else is just opinion or experience and I don't have a problem with either as long as people don't jump on "You use that??!-It destroyed my 1966 VW bug when I was in high school!"
The past is the past, the products aren't the same, major corporations buy out smaller ones, quality / cost /competitors change, merge etc. So much hype surrounds what are really usually only marketing based "differences" designed to sell products: Contains no whale oil, Sugar-Free, Not tested on animals etc"
I use Valvoline 10W30 conventional and a Wix or NAPA filter. That's what I use. Seems to be ok for what it's worth. Sorry for the rant
My Stable:
1984 Jeep Grand Wagoneer, 360 V8, Auto, SelecTrac
1987 Jeep Cherokee (XJ), 4.0L I6, Auto, Selectrac
And a few more....
"Paraffinic" base oils can cause wax buildup and sludge. WRONG . it does not mean "wax"
All high quality petroleum motor oils are made from "paraffinic" base oils. In spite of its name, "paraffin" does not mean candle wax. The stability of paraffin molecules makes paraffinic base oils more resistant to the chemical changes that can take place in an engine than other types of base oils. That means less sludge, varnish and corrosive wear with a high quality paraffinic base motor oil.
paraffin is just a common name for a saturated C-H chain (hydrocarbon chain). In chemistry they are known as an alkane. The term paraffinic base oil is derived from the term paraffin, meaning a saturated hydrocarbon based oil.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
I run Rotella T6 and NAPA Gold filters in everything I own and have for years. I typically run 10,000 miles between changes or change annually. Never had a spec of cam trouble in hundreds of thousands of miles.