Unfortunately, you need not only to remove the vent, but the flapper mechanism as well, which is a flapper inside a cone shape pipe which is stuck some some goop... then you can shove a shop vac, or ask your kid, your wife... a friend, a cousin an uncle... to dig in... I am not in your state, so I can't volunteer to give you a hand...wewillsurvive wrote:The vent doors don't need to removed to clean them out? My hands are wayyyy too big to fit in those vents without removing the vent door and such.
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Very good point as the silicon will corrode the metal.ProTouring442 wrote:Instead of silicone or strip caulk for filling cracks and small holes, use 3M Window-Weld Ribbon Sealer (3M# 051135-08612). It's butyl, and won't dry up or peel away.
My experience with 3M strip caulk is that it will dry out in time and crack and/or peel. For all my "strip caulk" needs I now use the butyl.letank wrote:Another non cracking compound I use is : 3M strip caulk in black, 08578 comes in pre cut strips of 1'
yes, after you unscrew the grille the cone and flapper assembly are fitted loosely in the kick panel and held by the grille screws. You may have to remove some of the flapper cable holding bracket(s) on the firewall to ease extraction, and make sure that you keep track of the way the flapper position, open or closed in relation to the position of the control knob on the dash.wewillsurvive wrote:So I should be able to just pry that cone and flapper out?
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Years ago for the snow issue, I used magnetic register cover or forced air vent covers... it cuts nicely with scissors... but they do not last too long...Nikkormat wrote:Very good idea with the vent cover. That would be usefull for storage too and the snowy months when the cowl fill up. That with a couple holes would solve all my troubles.
1) Yes, there is a 1/2" x 1" drain hole at the very bottom of the well which you can get to from under the vehicle.Road Hammer wrote:I read thru this thread with great interest, and a fair amount of concern! I'm now certain I need to see just what's lurking in the A pillar vents on my '83 Cherokee. For those who have done this I have a few questions:
1. Can the drain holes at the bottom of the A pillars be probed from the bottom?
2. Can the passenger side fresh air vent be removed with the A/C in place?
3. If the A/C must be removed, can it be moved out of the way without disconnecting the refrigerant hoses?
4. Is it possible to vacuum out the A pillar plenums from the cowl area? Like with a long hose on a shop vac?
I'm sure there are other questions I should be asking, but this is enough to get me going. Thanks in advance for your replies.
Still water tight, especially after the severe storm 3 weeks ago.Tatsadasayago wrote:Bump
That is where the air for your heat and defroster comes from.L96CHIEF wrote:Has anyone welded a cover (bodywork) over the fresh-air intake (grill at back of hood) and closed off the cabin fresh-air vents completely?
I'm considering this on my resto-mod and am curious if anyone can suggest a good reason not to solve the leaf *and* water problem by completely removing the intake? Fresh air can come in the windows for all I care...doesn't seem to make sense to have them.
Thoughts?
Yup! There is an oval shaped opening on the passenger side upper firewall that allows fresh air to enter the heater box. Blocking off the cowl grille won't prevent fresh air flow, but it will force air to be sucked upward from the lower cowl drain holes and foot vents if they are opened.Jonnyworld wrote:That is where the air for your heat and defroster comes from.L96CHIEF wrote:Has anyone welded a cover (bodywork) over the fresh-air intake (grill at back of hood) and closed off the cabin fresh-air vents completely?
I'm considering this on my resto-mod and am curious if anyone can suggest a good reason not to solve the leaf *and* water problem by completely removing the intake? Fresh air can come in the windows for all I care...doesn't seem to make sense to have them.
Thoughts?
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