Surprise, Surprise

Gumby · Post by **Gumby** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 5:43 pm

X( I guess that you really never know what you get when you buy an incomplete non running motor. This what I found out when I got bored of reading accounting books. Took the pan off last night and never saw so much goop in my life. I guess that the gasket ws totaly ingoned, there was enough goop that there was some inside the pan the back of the crank partially blocking the oil passage on #5 cap. I did not think much of it. Then I got to breaking the bolts on the caps and the Pistons. Then there was this weird smell (embalming fluid). Took the pistons out going from 1 to 8. Not bad then it got really ugly at #7. Take a look at the pictures....

The opposite side

This is what the bearing looked like once I got it out

This is what I'm working on

.

Any advice on what to plan on from here. It pretty much looked charred but the cylinder walls look pretty good

? .

Gumby · Post by **Gumby** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 5:50 pm

That was #8 piston.

jaber · Post by **jaber** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:40 pm

I would have the crank turned and the block line bored just for peace of mind.

Plan a full rebuild.

Gumby · Post by **Gumby** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 8:06 pm

I am happy planning on doing a complete rebuild. I really need to find a machine shop to do the work. Any recommendations?

Post by **Stuka** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:07 pm

What do the last crank journals and mains look like?

Gumby · Post by **Gumby** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:14 pm

This is the best picture I have at the moment.

I dont think it is too bad (in my opinion). This is the first tear down and rebuild I have ever done. If you look at the picture with the engine on the stand you can see the oil pan with the goop on it.

Post by **fulsizjeep** » Tue Sep 11, 2012 4:36 am

I would take the crank and #7 & #8 rods & caps to machine shop for inspection and show them the hammered bearing too.

Post by **Stuka** » Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:09 am

That crank may not be turnable. It depends how bad the gouging is. It may need to be welded up and then turned back down.

REDONE · Post by **REDONE** » Fri Sep 14, 2012 8:23 pm

Stuka wrote:That crank may not be turnable. It depends how bad the gouging is. It may need to be welded up and then turned back down.

I totally see what you're saying as that looks like it's past the .030 max undersize rod bearings available for our rods, but it can easily be turned down to Chevy size and run custom length chevy rods for not a whole lot more than stock replacement AMC rods.

Gumby · Post by **Gumby** » Sun Sep 16, 2012 2:09 pm

I am open to ant recommendations that I can get.... please be gentle "it is my first time" building or rebuilding an engine.

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