Water, water everywhere

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Wagy
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2012 7:19 am

Water, water everywhere

Post by Wagy »

After buying and bringing home my GW I found that the source of the swampy smell was rotted carpets and pads. Gutting the interior revealed floorboards that were rusted through from the inside, telling me this was a long-standing problem. That lead to a winter filled with cutting, welding, grinding, spraying... Well, you get the idea, real carguy stuff.

I found the main source of water entering the cabin was from the doors. (That gave me the opportunity to lube up all the power window mechanisms, which now work like a charm. :D) So I installed new water shields and sealed about everything I could on the door shells. The door seals, felts and weatherstrips all seem in good shape and the door drains are open. Still water just pours in through the doors when it rains hard. Never seen anything like it. Water can be seen coming from inside the door and finding its way past the water shields. Once it gets that far, it drips over the door seal that sits on the threshold pinch weld and right onto the new carpets.

Water doesn't seem to be coming from anywhere else like the windshield. What am I missing? Is there a some Jeep trick to this?
1988 Burgundy GW, my first Jeep and current patient

Two 60s muscle cars keep it company
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fulsizjeep
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Re: Water, water everywhere

Post by fulsizjeep »

The rubber well nuts for the luggage rack and spoiler let it in and it runs down the posts to soak the carpet. You don't always see headliner damage when they leak. The roof rail screws don't even use a seal. The roof is worth checking out.
Flint Boardman
88 GW, 401/727/208, 5" lift, D44s/4.10s/locked up, 35s
https://jubileejeeps.org/quadratrac

NOLA88Wagoneer
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Apr 11, 2013 4:54 pm
Location: New Orleans, LA

Re: Water, water everywhere

Post by NOLA88Wagoneer »

Yeah I had the same issue, exactly as you described. Mine ended up being the roof rack seals. Check those out before you move on.
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Brizio
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Location: Portland, OR
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Re: Water, water everywhere

Post by Brizio »

NOLA88Wagoneer wrote:Yeah I had the same issue, exactly as you described. Mine ended up being the roof rack seals. Check those out before you move on.
Yes, I had the same problem on my old GW, I also uses sealed the screw that keep the roof rack bars, and the chrome cargo bars on the roof. No more water for me, only beer... :)
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wewillsurvive
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Joined: Mon Mar 18, 2013 1:10 pm
Location: Martinsville, IN

Re: Water, water everywhere

Post by wewillsurvive »

Same as above although my headliner showed signs of it having been wet.
1972 Dodge Demon with a 451" stroker Big Block
1986 Jeep Grand Wagoneer AMC 360" AKA Golddigger- SOLD
2003 Dodge Crewcab 2500 Cummins longbed 4x4
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee V-6 full time 4x4


Alternators, winches, 4x4, guns all have the same issue if you don't have any knowledge of them usually bad things will happen. Serehill
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FSJunkie
Posts: 657
Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 5:47 pm
Location: Flagstaff, Arizona

Re: Water, water everywhere

Post by FSJunkie »

Cowel fresh air intake ducts have a drain hole at the bottom and no intake screen to prevent debries from collecting down there and plugging it up. Remove front fender, cut a bigger drain hole, clean it all out, and install a mesh over the cowel intake grille.

Luggage racks.

Door weatherstripping, though you can sometimes get around it by adjusting the door latches to close tighter.

Behind the interior trim panels on the side doors is a tar paper and plastic sheet stuck on with butyl ribbon sealer. It must be installed properly: sealed around the edges, and bottom edge tucked in or water in the doors will run down the inside of the barrior and into the carpet. More drain holes in the bottom of the doors.
1972 Wagoneer: 360 2V, THM-400, D20, D30 closed knuckle, D44 Trac-lok 3.31.
1965 Rambler Ambassador: 327 4V, BW M-10 auto, AMC 20 3.15.
1973 AMC Ambassador: 360 4V, TC-727.
1966 AMC Marlin 327 4V, T-10 4 speed, AMC 20 Powr-lok 3.54.

Racegas
Posts: 27
Joined: Sun Mar 17, 2013 1:50 pm

Re: Water, water everywhere

Post by Racegas »

From the mothership:


Leak Prevention Update

Contributed By: John Brewer

Well it's been about three months since I re-did the lining on the inside of my front passenger door and no leaks yet. And in Alabama in the spring, we get some serious rainfall- not that long lasting but very very high short term (24hrs or so) volume. The kind of rain that really gets things pouring inside the car.

*Note: The following terms apply below-

Outside = After removing the door panel, this is the surface you see.
Inside = The opposite side of the outside surface, inside the door itself.
What I did was remove *all* the plastic on the outside of the door. Even the tape-like stuff that was covering the hinge bolts ('89 GW) one of which had been leaking. Then I cleaned the outside metal with mineral spirits- and for good measure- "Prep-Sol", a pre-painting cleaner (make sure your solvent doesn't remove paint!). I then covered, from the outside, the hinge bolt access holes (if you've had the door panel off you know what I mean) and all the small holes with 2" aluminum tape; also called 100mph tape. I really rubbed hard on the edges to be sure I'd get a good seal. Occasionally you'll have to overlap for more width.

I made little hoods or umbrellas for the holes where the door-pulls screw in (2) and put them on the inside of the door since I couldn't cover them without punching holes in them with the screws. I cut a piece of plastic off the original sheet to shield the electric window switches- basically looked the same as original but not connected to the rest of the plastic.

This left three large holes: The access hole to the door lock area, the access hole beneath that, and the very large hole at the bottom of the door where the speaker goes. For the two smaller holes, I cut a plastic sheet a tiny bit smaller than the hole itself, trial-and-error and cut again. I then lined the plastic with 100mph tape and used it to cover the holes on the outside. This completely sealed these holes yet still allowed for visual inspection without removal. I actually did one edge at a time and was surprised how tight the plastic became.

For the bottom hole, about 6" high and 14" long, none of the above methods would work. What I did then, was to cut a sheet of plastic (from the original, though any quality plastic sheeting would work) a good bit higher and a little longer with the same rough shape as the opening. Then with the speaker removed, I taped the entire length of the top of the plastic sheet just above the opening on the outside. I then pushed the lower part of the plastic inside the door so that any drips of water would be shielded from the speaker and door panel. I then carefully trimmed and taped so the whole thing was water tight and secure around the top. I left the bottom and most of the sides free so it acts like an umbrella. The entire operation took about 2 1/2 hours and that included removing the old stuff, cleaning the door, figuring things out, and with my one and-a-half, three, and four year old boys "helping". I think I could do the other front door in an hour or so with less help though it wouldn't be as much fun.

I ended up with a very water resistant package that seems to be holding up. This design also has a DISTINCT advantage over the original (besides the fact that it works). It allows you to work on the inside of the door without having to remove, and then discard and replace that large, difficult to work with, plastic sheet! I can grease my window track by removing *only* the door panel and pushing the lower shield aside. I can get to my door lock and latch area by removing only one or two, small, easily replaceable cover. All the other holes are basically useless unless you're removing the works. It really makes maintenance and inspection on doors, and the electrical connections within them, much easier to perform and hence- much harder to put off. I think I'll be doing my other doors soon since the locks need maintenance anyway.

I discovered the source of some additional leaks the other day. I have been getting water, standing several inches deep sometimes, in the inside of both my rear fender wells- well is right! Some time ago, I dug away the body filler in the lower front corner so the water could drain out but it had obviously become plugged.

In the past I had always looked for leaks at joints; windows, tail lights, running lights, gas filler hole, tail gate, etc., and had plugged the small ones I had found with plumbers putty (don't laugh it works!). I guess this must have helped but after a heavy rain it would still be quite wet. The other day, looking around again, I noticed a small hole in a sheet metal joint on the outside of the vehicle! It is the corner that juts out and is next to the tailgate. Putting my mouth on it I can blow a very steady stream right into the fender well area. Very obviously it has leaked since *new*, occurs on both sides, and is due solely to shoddy workanship. I have noticed that many seams on my FSJ are very poorly sealed and the body filler is just slapped on with no attempt at quality control whatsoever. Probably some Union flunky doing a crummy job because he is unfirable, unpunishable, and un-competent. I apologize if this offends anybody but it *is* the case. I suppose I'll fix it since I give a damn about quality.

You've gotta wonder- is this why FSJs received such poor reviews in Consumer Reports- crappy work like this? This kind of stuff really burns me up. The same kind of crummy work made my front door leak and has caused other problems. With a production line of 29 years, the automobile was clearly engineered very well. For many years it was built very well. The American worker could learn a very valuable lesson from the Japanese!

John Brewer
brewer@thaad.tecmas.com
Fri, 2 May 1997

"Any man who would trade liberty for security deserves neither."
Benjamin Franklin
Robert E Lee
89 GW White/Maroon, Son's DD

89 GW Silver/Maroon/Rust, parts car
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Whtshos
Posts: 28
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 2:19 pm
Location: Arlington TX

Re: Water, water everywhere

Post by Whtshos »

The small flat seal that takes the water from the roof drip rail - thought the door gap near the windshield, made the TANK look like it was coming from the door. It was actaull following the front face of the door, down to the floor sill and making its way to the floor.
Have fun.
'79 Chief (the boys) 3.5 RC lift 360-TH400
'02 Baby Grand (Mammas) 3.5 OME lift 4.7 HO QD
I'm looking for a J10 (stopped looking 6 April 2013)
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,======,---,
//___/l_,\____\,__
l_-----l__l---0llllllll0
_(o)_)__(o)_)--o-)_)_

adzam
Posts: 107
Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2012 6:23 pm

Re: Water, water everywhere

Post by adzam »

I have the same issue. Re-sealed the vapor barrier my front doors, and still have water on the drivers side floor. It's not the cowl vents, it has to be running down the front of the door and down to the seal at the pinch weld at the bottom front of the door weatherstrip.

At this point I'm about to replace the door weatherstrip and see if that helps any. It's driving me crazy!
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bwwhaler
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Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 6:33 am
Location: Wilmington NC

Re: Water, water everywhere

Post by bwwhaler »

Tell me about it :x I believe mine is leaking everywhere...
1987 GW 360/727/229 Performer intake Holley 670 32's 4" BJ's Springs CS-144 Serehill's light and tailgate harness
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