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Hello everyone. I’m new here so first off thanks for having me!
What brought me here is my soon to bring home ‘89 waggy. I’m new to the world of FSJ. My intentions for the Jeep is basically a camping/kayaking/fishing and all around family advernture vehicle I will not be doing any wheeling with it. And the occasional DD duty (I have a 10 minute commute) I live in the salt belt so my first order of business is remedying known rust. I’ve heard some negative talk about the carbs and vacuum lines on these things, is that a real area of concern? ANY advice and tips on what I should or shouldn’t do is greatly appreciated!!
Side note, I currently DD a ‘98 XJ
Here is a few pictures of it. It runs and drives but hasn’t been on the road in 10 years. I’m getting a pretty good deal on it (well I think I am anyway lol)
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welcome to the asylum, looks like a fine example of somebody who has done some work for you.
10 years of storage can be tricky with old gas and some potential rodent invasion.
Carbs are fine in my FSJ world, with the oem 2150 motorcraft carburetor. Vacuum activated devices need to be evaluated for proper operation. All fluids to be changed for assurance of cleanliness and proper levels and quality.
86 and later have better metal preparation and more rust resistance. I recently acquired an 86 and there is a world of difference with the 85.
Last edited by letank on Sat Mar 23, 2019 4:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
There is a lot of vacuum controlled emissions equipment. Do you have to pass any kind of emissions or inspections?
Most of the emissions stuff, including the stuff associated with the carb, is good and doesn't impact performance. The PCV and EGR systems are both good. Also the 'canister' traps vapors from the fuel tank and carb bowl and allows the engine to pull these back in and burn them.
The AIR system is okay but a bit clunky and has a lot of parts. There is also a vacuum operated system for controlling spark advance depending on engine temps and load. This is one of the systems that usually isn't working correctly and mostly gets removed. There is also a system which controls a diversion flap in the air cleaner to draw air that has been warmed over the exhaust manifold.
You will want to start by checking for vacuum leaks. One option is to tag and remove most of the vacuum lines and plug the source (not the PCV or brake booster of course). Then hook them back up one by one to see if it causes a problem.
The starting procedure with a carb is a bit different as well. If my memory is correct the documented procedure is to turn the ignition to the 'on' position then depress the gas pedal all the way to the floor and release. Then crank the engine. This procedure shoots a bit of gas into the manifold and also sets the choke. The car will fast idle at startup. After a few moments tap the gas and the idle speed will usually drop, unless it is really cold out.
letank wrote:welcomd to the asylum, looks like a fine example of somebody who has done some work for you.
10 years of storage can be trucky with old gas and some potential rodent invasion.
Carbs are fine in my FSJ world, with the oem 2150 motorcraft carburetor. Vacuum activated devices need to be evaluated for proper operation. All fluids to be changed for assurance of cleanliness and proper levels and quality.
86 and later have better metal preparation and more rust resistance. I recently acquired an 86 and there is a world of difference with the 85.
Thanks for the reply! Are body panels readily available for these? Also, how does one go about replacing or repairing the wood?
will e wrote:Welcome to the forum! That's a nice looking rig.
There is a lot of vacuum controlled emissions equipment. Do you have to pass any kind of emissions or inspections?
Most of the emissions stuff, including the stuff associated with the carb, is good and doesn't impact performance. The PCV and EGR systems are both good. Also the 'canister' traps vapors from the fuel tank and carb bowl and allows the engine to pull these back in and burn them.
The AIR system is okay but a bit clunky and has a lot of parts. There is also a vacuum operated system for controlling spark advance depending on engine temps and load. This is one of the systems that usually isn't working correctly and mostly gets removed. There is also a system which controls a diversion flap in the air cleaner to draw air that has been warmed over the exhaust manifold.
You will want to start by checking for vacuum leaks. One option is to tag and remove most of the vacuum lines and plug the source (not the PCV or brake booster of course). Then hook them back up one by one to see if it causes a problem.
The starting procedure with a carb is a bit different as well. If my memory is correct the documented procedure is to turn the ignition to the 'on' position then depress the gas pedal all the way to the floor and release. Then crank the engine. This procedure shoots a bit of gas into the manifold and also sets the choke. The car will fast idle at startup. After a few moments tap the gas and the idle speed will usually drop, unless it is really cold out.
Thank you for all this information! I’m definitely going to bookmark this for future reference!
Luckily, I don’t have emissions in my county. I’m in the south metro of Minneapolis.
Astro wrote:
Wow. Thank you for this! The wood grain replacements definitely aren’t cheap but I will be in need of them.
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The biggest issue are the potential damages due to some rivets rusting around their holding area, the one holding the wood trim. In my case the ones in the rear quarter panels are causing the most damage.
This is why the one with the trim colored in the transfer/decal seems like a good option.
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)