Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.
so I was able to get the wagoneer up on the lift today to see just how bad the rear frame damage is, well it's as bad as I thought it was. the rear cross member that supports the rear of the body is gone and both frame rails are pretty bent and twisted to about the center of axle arches. so I have three options,1 fab up new rear rail sections, 2 use rear frame sections off of an 80's model frame my buddy has, or 3 use the whole 80's model frame. I haven't had a chance to compare measurements on the two frames I was just wondering how close they are, fabbing body mounts is not a problem and I am not keeping it original so that is not a concern either.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
I am assuming that the po put that cross member in trying to stiffen up the bent frame rails after the rear cross member was removed. and yes those are some terrible welds.
Looks like he used coat hangers and car batteries.
I'd do the whole frame.
Count the body mounts. Somewhere between '65 and '84 they went to one fewer per side. Idunno about other changes.
Same motor and trans were in the '80 as in yours?
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Maybe I am not understanding this correctly, someone cut out the rear crosmember and welded in another? Why not replace the missing crossmember, and straiten the frame rails?
Is that the rear cross member by the tires.. or the one by the bumper.... The bumper id be less concerned
. but the one above the differential... i dunno man
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
Also how bent amd twisted is this frame can you get a pic ? The wagoneers frame in the rear is bent weirdly to begin with so are you sure its actual damage ?
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
So this is what it looked like with the body removed(this is how it was when I bought it), after leveling the frame on jack stands I determined that the frame was only damaged behind the axle arches, the rest of the frame is straight and square so I decided to rebuild the rear section instead of trying to straighten the damaged area the right was not that bad but the left one was worse . had some 2"X4"X1/8" box tubing left over from another project and found that it fit perfectly in side the frame rail.I don't have a completed picture but I will post some when I get them down loaded from my phone.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Just about finished, mount the hangers for the swing shackels and put some sleeves through the frame to mount a bumper and trailer hitch in the future. once I get all that done I can actually start swapping the axles out and the engine and transmission/transfer case.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
ibrokethat2 wrote:I was thinking about boxing the rest of the frame, but was wondering if I really needed to.
Depends on your preferences. In the CJ world, much of the vehicle's flex comes from the frame twist. Body roll control comes from the stiff springs. Stiffen the frame and soften the springs, and the Jeep now needs some other sort of body roll control.
From what I've seen, the usual failure of these frmes is the rear spring mounts for the front axle pulling off of the frame. This typically leaves a hole in the frame rail, and could be a source of rail failure due to cracking. Good idea to add a reinforcing strap along the frame rail and through the spring mount, IMO ... esp. since you're so well set up to do this.
Now that you have repaired the rear of the frame to be stiffer than the forward part, possible you will have a stress riser where the rear frame meets the front. If it were me, I would ether try to match the flexibility front to rear, or bring the stiffening forward to in front of the rear axle spring hangers, and then taper it off toward the front. This could be done with a fish mouth, at the point where the boxing ends. Could be I'm over-analyzing this ...
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.