New (rusty) wagoneer owner

[WagoneerNewbie]

Hello,
Picked up 86 GW with 46000 miles. Interior is in excellent condition. Engine starts. Idling high.
Area of concern is rust on undercarriage. There is rot on the passenger side of the frame. Don’t know if there’s enough left to weld repair.
Wondering if replacing frame with a rust-free frame is a viable option. I’ve already located some frames online for reasonable prices (not included cost to ship them to the northeast). I don’t habe the ability to do this myself and worry that labor cost to replace frame will be astronomical. Anyone have any advice/experience with frame repair or replacement on Wagoneers?

Thanks

[Phils67]

Where are you located in the northeast? As far as high idle, did you check vaccum lines? A bad vaccum line can really screw with a carburators idle. I know of a wagoneer with a decent frame but you would have to flatbed it out of where it is or strip it to the frame where it sits, no axles under it to roll it and in a very awkward location. Just a body frame and driveline sitting stacked forever on tires.

[WagoneerNewbie]

I’m in Putnam county. I’d be interested in this frame for sure if you think a frame swap is doable. Picking one up locally (or even somewhat locally) would save me a fortune on shipping.
Thanks for the advice on the idle. When I thrust the gas pedal it corrects itself. Please let me know about this frame.

[Phils67]

Im going to PM you

[deckroid]

Ok... I am sure I am not the only on here who is going to ask.

Let's see some pics!!

And being from a low rust state, is there anything undercoating that help with rust prevention? Or is this just a known thing that has to be contended with? I live in Idaho, and for the most part, our rust is limited and not as cancerous as some eastern regions.

[WagoneerNewbie]

Pics to come...

[WagoneerNewbie]

wag3.jpg

wag2.jpg

wag1.jpg

[deckroid]

Oh. My. Very good looking GW

[letank]

Welcome to the asylum, looks very good, but there is a lot of visible rust damage .

Check around the 4 wheel wells to see if you have more areas of concern, you need to lift the carpet, do the same at the rear passenger bench on the level floor area.

[will e]

I love that color. It's a good looking rig. The body rust has me a bit concerned about the frame rust too. I can't see swapping that body onto a new frame. It might be a better option to find one that has a bad interior and lots of miles and swap the interior and drive train.

[tgreese]

I love that color. It's a good looking rig. The body rust has me a bit concerned about the frame rust too. I can't see swapping that body onto a new frame. It might be a better option to find one that has a bad interior and lots of miles and swap the interior and drive train.

Agree. My inclination would be to take the best parts from this one and install them on another vehicle. Looks like it's been well cared for, but the body rust is too extensive to repair IMO. Generally what rust you see is indicative of a lot more that is hidden. It could be done, but finding another donor for the shell and frame seems like a better option.

[WagoneerNewbie]

Thanks for the feedback. Why do you think swapping the frame isn't a viable option? Just because there will be more rust issues on other areas once I open it up?
I already have front and rear panels to replace as well as 2 rocker panels.

[fulsizjeep]

That is serious rust. I have parted them for less than that. I would try to get it on a lift for good inspection underneath. I did that with my dad's 88 GW several years ago and the frame collapsed by the gas tank where the lift pad was placed. Not long after that, the brake lines started leaking from under the rust scales. Hence the term, swiss cheese.

[tgreese]

"I would try to get it on a lift for good inspection underneath."

Yep. I would advise not to buy any more steel until you take a good look underneath, and get some estimates of the cost involved. These cars are not rare (in the true collector sense), and they only have high value when they are real cream puffs - low miles, visually perfect, original. You _can_ fix all this rust, but it will be years of weekend labor if you are not a professional. Mechanical repairs are easy; body work is hard, especially rust repair. Rust repair will be wildly expensive if you don't do it yourself, and most individuals don't have the time, energy, or equipment to take on a big job like this. If you can swap mechanical work for rust repair, I think you'll be way ahead in terms of time and money.

JMO. Sorry to be so negative. You can fix it if you want to, but I think paying someone to fix it will be astronomically expensive - way more than the premium price to buy the end product outright. And I don't think you realize how much labor will be required for a frame swap. Do you have someone in mind to do the work? Ask them.