Really, that is what I used on my J20 floor. Got it from Lowes and applied it over Bedliner in the cab. Does it work? IDKtgreese wrote:This class of stuff looks like the bituminous membrane used for waterproofing on windows and roofs. Anyone compare?
Cecil14 wrote:I put fatmat in my truck, I don't remember exactly which one, it's probably the thinner one. It has stuck very well to the floor and ceiling, but didn't stick well to the back wall. I don't think I cleaned the wall enough, honestly. It made a massive difference in noise and temperature inside the truck, though.
When I do something again, I think I'm going to use LizardSkin spray on instead of any stick on stuff.
Lizard skin might be a great choice for inside the door skins if doesn’t run when applied, will have to investigate that.
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I checked this out and like the fact it uses butyl rubber as the adhesive and u r right, it’s cheaper.Chubbinius wrote:I used Kilmat 80mil on the floor from firewall to tailgate. I used a wooden seam roller to smooth it down and form it into/over the countours. You do have to take your time as the foil lining will occasionally tear press it along a countours too quickly or forcefully (leaving the sticky butyl rubber open to put a knee or hand in).
Overall it went in easily and without much fuss. Seems to have benefitted both noise reduction and some of the road and drive train heat. (Plus it's more affordable than the Dynamat). It seems to be holding the shape of the cargo area quite well. I put the mass backed replacement carpet over it as well.
I imagine it would adhere pretty well to the roof, but I did not do mine, the headliner is in pretty decent condition so I didn't want to add extra work. For the roof insulation, you might consider using the Kilmat insulator panels (300 mil I think), I put some of it over my transmission hump and on some of the firewall. Good luck!custom76 wrote:
I checked this out and like the fact it uses butyl rubber as the adhesive and u r right, it’s cheaper.
Did you do your roof? looks like it would likely stay there Ok.
Yes, but without the asphalt fumes. I used Noico 80mil on my Chief. Can get it off amazon, and is basically the same as all the name brands.tgreese wrote:This class of stuff looks like the bituminous membrane used for waterproofing on windows and roofs. Anyone compare?
Completely agree, SJTD. In reading through the Dynamat and Rattletrap sites and some of the car audio installation sites for acoustic insulating- all talk about the need for layering (usually using a combination of 3 layers of-a CLD like butyl rubber, ccf, and mlv) to get the most effective noise reduction/blocking. I tried to layer them where I could (butyl across the whole floor, ccf on trans tunnel/firewall/kickpanels, and then ordered the jute padding and mass backed carpet kit from BJs). I didn't want to put too much thickness down on the floor and mess with seat positioning or functions.SJTD wrote:To most effectively block outside noise you want a layer of foam or jute then a layer of heavy stuff. Covering all the metal with butyl is not an efficient use of that material. Butyl is for deadening vibration/resonance and you don't need 100% coverage for that.
Even Dynamat knows this an came out with their own MLV when people learned that covering the inside of their vehicle with butyl was wasting money.