Tim - with the housings betty and merrill went with (standard H4 housings) there won't be any "LED" look. These are not the sealed beam LED replacement bulbs, but regular H4 housings with LED bulbs inside. You'd never know they were LEDs from looking at them. They are essentially the same housings you went with, but instead of a regular halogen bulb used an LED bulb.tgreese wrote:The OP says he does not want the look of LEDs.
I'm using the 60/55W high/low H4 halogen bulbs that came with the Autopal reflectors.
This size bulb is marketed as a plug-and-play replacement compatible with existing wiring, but I suggest you add relays anyway. The relays will make the bulbs brighter, and I suspect the switches in these old Jeeps are not up to switching the Halogen bulbs. They may work fine for a while, but both the headlight switch and high beams switch are in the circuit for the original headlights. With the relays, you reassign the switches' function to control of the relays only, and supply power at a higher voltage (due to lower resistance) directly from the battery through the relays to the headlights.
This is exactly the reason I suggested the pre made harness. Even with adding the relays as Tgreese stated, you are essentially building a relay harness. I've done the same thing on my old Dodge I owned long before you could buy the harness.Vince wrote:Thanks for both replies - I need to look into this further as electrical is not a strong area for me. What type bulbs do you run?
Remove grille, route harness through hole in core support along existing factory headlight wiring, using factory clips and zip ties to hold in place, mount relays near battery with a couple of self tapping screws.Vince wrote:- ease of install is also a factor as the simpler it is the more probable I complete the upgrade in an afternoon with out needing to chase down additional parts.
All of the above. One light is obviously not getting as much power as the other (assuming the same bulbs on both sides). Usually one side runs off the other side; the power comes into say the driver side, then the feed for the passenger side splices off the driver connector and goes to the passenger side. It's very possible there is a bad ground in there, or a bad connection, or a bad connector, etc. Take everything apart, clean it as much as possible, check for broken/loose wires, reassemble with some dielectric grease.rirealtor wrote:Slightly off topic but related- any ideas why 1 headlight( driver) not as bright as passenger? Ground? Length of wire from power source? Older headlight? This is on a stock sealed beam headlight from 75.