Those of us in AZ know what you are saying. My practical experience with a 81 Wagoneer and 4" spring lift was it would tackle many of the trails here in AZ. We are not talking about the true rock crawling stuff but Crown King, Martinez cabin (when it was open) and other similar trails are doable. You will want sliders for the rocker panels. I never needed a tank skid but I had the 'coffin' tank. And the rear lower panel area's do take a beating. There is much more overhang than any of the wranglers.twisty wrote:Lockers are amazing and I am sold on them. In AZ and in the west in general we have rocks everywhere. I'd want a tank skid, and rocker panel skid, maybe even the rear lower corner panel area.dodgerammit wrote:Also, if not rock crawling, why lockers? True tracs are awesome for most anything other than lifting a wheel off of the ground. Even in stock form, these things aren't bad.
And also armor is generally installed for rock crawling. Confused why you need more than some decent bumpers?
Excellent INFO!will e wrote:Those of us in AZ know what you are saying. My practical experience with a 81 Wagoneer and 4" spring lift was it would tackle many of the trails here in AZ. We are not talking about the true rock crawling stuff but Crown King, Martinez cabin (when it was open) and other similar trails are doable. You will want sliders for the rocker panels. I never needed a tank skid but I had the 'coffin' tank. And the rear lower panel area's do take a beating. There is much more overhang than any of the wranglers.twisty wrote:Lockers are amazing and I am sold on them. In AZ and in the west in general we have rocks everywhere. I'd want a tank skid, and rocker panel skid, maybe even the rear lower corner panel area.dodgerammit wrote:Also, if not rock crawling, why lockers? True tracs are awesome for most anything other than lifting a wheel off of the ground. Even in stock form, these things aren't bad.
And also armor is generally installed for rock crawling. Confused why you need more than some decent bumpers?
My setup was sliders, lockers on both axles, 4" spring lift and 31" tires. Very capable.
More great stuff.letank wrote:welcome, adding my .02, you have an excellent idea to plan ahead, so you can practive with the friendly AZ group, join them even with your daily driver to Ouray this July, I cant make it, I broke my ankle last week while off-roading on 2 wheels.
It is not if you are going to breakdown, but when, so knowing your vehicle is the first step, How to fix it and be able to move forward.
Having spare parts is good, but even the spares are sometimes failing upon installation or shortly thereafter, starter, alternator, master cylinder, ignition module and some have mentioned water pumps. But here you will find the parts place to avoid.
Rust is our first battle, even if most are fighting poor running engine, oil leaks, and electrical systems hacked by the previous owners.
There have been changes along the years, it is the V8 same engine , but 74-79 have the 4x4 transfer case called Quadra trac and most of them have been modifed due to a lack of parts until last year when Novak reproduced the parts, I am skipping 80-81 for ease of contents, by 81-82 you have a few variations of transfer case np208 with manual hub which is a prefered choice to the NP229 with a viscous coupler in the transfer case that can fail when the silicone leak out and leave you stranded, IIRC 86 or 87 had NP228.
Axles are another story, the biggest drawback being that emission control had pushed the manufacturers by early 80's to install high or tall gearing of 2.72, the tow package has 3.31, some of the late 70's had 3.54 , tall gears are terrible when using larger tires
yes the grand cherokee is good, but they are priced low because of annoying problems, if your heater core leaks, you need to pull the dashboard, on our rigs, disconnect the hoses connect them together -unfortunatley they are not the same diameter for in and out. Other issues are with the alarm system, and the 99 to 2002 model being plagued with engine issues.
As for the toy, it seems that most of them need a headgasket of new heads around 170Kmiles.
As some point most of us are trying to find a more reliable rig that can go anywhere, so we surf the other forums, or talk to friends who have bought new vehicles such as toyotas, or jeeps.
I like my old wagoneers, because I know what can break down and how to fix it... spare distributor and electronic modules are always inside and a big hammer if the starter is not happy and a spare electric fuel pump.
Yeah, there is that. My back seat spends about half the year in the basement so I can load it all up on top the spare tire. LOLSJTD wrote:While the Wag is beeg it seems to me a lot of that bigness is in front of the windshield. The cargo area doesn't seem that great.
I took mine for good!fulsizjeep wrote:Yeah, there is that. My back seat spends about half the year in the basement so I can load it all up on top the spare tire. LOLSJTD wrote:While the Wag is beeg it seems to me a lot of that bigness is in front of the windshield. The cargo area doesn't seem that great.
I'm not tbi (yet).rapom wrote:Dogrammit, I did almost everything you did (except the tbi) and then some to my 79 chief. I even have an engine preluber. A/C blows cold with new sandan compresser, new headliner , serehill harnesses with wireless rear window fob. And a lot of drive time with the family. Although not as much as you. I have multiple classics to pick from.
I would say that I have a very reliable Chief. Super reliable is what I was trying to define and would require more than what you and me did.
Yes, it's a problem with these Jeeps. I kinda think any newish car will require a lot of time and effort to fix issues if it's something buried deep in the dash. You might be able to use it as a bargaining chip when buying. Dunno, taking apart the dash does not seem like such a frightening prospect to me. Supposedly there is a kit that fixes the blend doors without taking the dash apart, but you have to cut a hole in the glove box to reach the blend door. Then you'll have to patch the hole... but you'll only see the patch when the glove box is open.candymancan wrote:... I dont like WJs... If you do get a WJ do not get a limited.. The duel limate control blend doors are always broken and youll hate yourself when you want the a.c or heat on and it doesnt blow it out of the vents in front.
Id rather cut holes in the floorboard and weld a patch then tear an entire dash out and fix a blend door. ...
Brag away.rapom wrote:Not to brag. But I have my first Car I ever bought (1986). 79 Camaro 509ci. 400 turbo with gear vendors, Vintage air system made for 2nd gen Camaros etc...
68 Dodge Charger 408 stroked small block with A/C from Classic Air.
67 Dodge Coronet 496 fuel injected (Msd Atomic) stroker, 727 with gear vendors overdrive, Classic air A/C system, mini tubbed etc...
64 Buick Riviera Stock 425 nailhead with 400 turbo and GV overdrive and Vintage air (This is my go to work car on nice days so it gets the most miles)
All cars run on pump gas and are reliable. The dodges have all new electrical systems with multiple relay systems. Camaro has a secondary system for the high load stuff.
All have high amp alternators that have high output at idle. The Coronet has a mercedes softstart electric fan that runs only as fast as it needs to to keep the temps down. (You set the window between low rpm 180 degrees and full speed at 185 degrees.)
Would like to (ls turbo) the riviera if the nailhead ever gives up the ghost.
Have to put them it rotation to drive them since I have only one 16' garage door so one of them sits for a month then I swap them around so another will sit for a month. The Chief,Charger, and Riviera are always available. Camaro and Coronet take turns each month.
Next big job might be fuel injection on the Chief but it is running so good I don't know when I will do it.
My Riviera has x frame like your Belair but it is narrower. You would not believe how hard it was to install an overdrive unit with that x-frame.