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I have been driving my GW a long time. The last time I drove it with working AC was 2001. There is a few weeks here in SW CO that it is nice to have AC so I haven't worried about it. But I am going to SO AZ next week and I know it can easily crack 100 over Memorial Day weekend. Two things I am not qualified or comfortable to work on. Automatic transmissions and AC. I took it in this morning and got it adapted to run R134, vacuumed and charged. It took 2.5# freon and it was blowing 31* at the vent. It was not hot today (84*) but I drove it home 20 miles with AC running and have to say that is SWEET!
That's awesome. I've had it working in a couple wagoneer and one Cherokee. I got a Vintage Air unit for the Cummins truck, but still have a lot of work to get it ready...
Adapted to 134a.. did they change out the butyl hoses and all the seals ?? They were all made with butyl rubber and it leaks 134a so if you just got it vacuumed and refilled then that wont work.
Did they change the comoressor oil too ? 134a can explode with the oil r12 uses.
As for my A.C in my 90 it works just fine.. It leaks from a hose that has a small oin leak which sucks :-/ i thought about wrapping it in butyl rubber and clamping it tight like you wouod a metal pipe leaking water.. but i just refill with a can of r12 every year.. 25-30$ a can is cheaper then converting. Seems to work fine still this year so i havent refilled it yet.
If the hose eventually gives way ill just convert it then.. But till then refilling it is cheaper and easier.. Although for me i know someone who has 30lbs bottles and littlle cans so i just go to him when i need a refill.
Also those butane.propane bittles called R12A work in our systems.. I bought 3 took 1 can and the a.c was ice cold.
But i decided to stick with regular r12 since i know someone
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
candymancan wrote:Adapted to 134a.. did they change out the butyl hoses and all the seals ?? They were all made with butyl rubber and it leaks 134a so if you just got it vacuumed and refilled then that wont work.
Did they change the comoressor oil too ? 134a can explode with the oil r12 uses.
As for my A.C in my 90 it works just fine.. It leaks from a hose that has a small oin leak which sucks :-/ i thought about wrapping it in butyl rubber and clamping it tight like you wouod a metal pipe leaking water.. but i just refill with a can of r12 every year.. 25-30$ a can is cheaper then converting. Seems to work fine still this year so i havent refilled it yet.
If the hose eventually gives way ill just convert it then.. But till then refilling it is cheaper and easier.. Although for me i know someone who has 30lbs bottles and littlle cans so i just go to him when i need a refill.
Also those butane.propane bittles called R12A work in our systems.. I bought 3 took 1 can and the a.c was ice cold.
But i decided to stick with regular r12 since i know someone
I took the cheap way and got oil and fittings. It leaked by Saturday. The low pressure hose is leaking at the crimp at compressor. Going to AZ w/o AC. Will need to drop dash unit another time.
Id just get some of the r12a.. Its cheap.. itll work and it gets colder then r12 and r134.
Only thing is it isnt (compatible) with butyl rubber lol no idea why... But it worked for me when i used it before it leaked out after a year and i found my r12 guy.
youll only need 1 can too. 1 can is equiv to like 2 or 3 of the others
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
A/c is what I do and am currently converting a 78 J10 with factory air,owner installed a new York comp and I'm replacing the hoses/condenser/drier,new comp came with Pag100 oil, removed evap coil and flushed out gunk/oil,replaced x-valve and t-stat, checked blower motor cleaned up painted and fabricated new hoses (suction,liquid) and installed, hoses are barrier hose with nylon liner (standard off the shelf stuff) new condenser is aftermarket parallel flow and drier is oem style (oem is ok if in good shape but would flush out old oil)fabbed discharge/liquid from cond, install new 134A service valves on compressor and charge, out the door for $1000,00 parts and labor, other than for crimping the hoses and evacuating and charging you can do most of this your self,I loan out portable crimpers to people for a deposit (local)so look for a local ac shop maybe they will help, Cheers
fulsizjeep wrote:Here is the thing. I do not want to have to find an R12 guy. I am happy for you if it works for you. Thanks for sharing.
Youre confused man.. lol
r12a is butane look it up its called redtek 12a if you plan to convert to 134a in future and dont care your butyl hoses then get some of the 12a itll work just fine.
I dunno why they call it 12a but yea its butane.propane
one 6oz can is equal to 2 or 3 14oz cans of the 134 and r12. You still have the mineral oil in your comoressor right or did they put pag oil in.
When i got my 90 my ac wasnt working pribly hasnt been recharged in 10 years or more.. I bought sime redtek 12a on amazon and put 1 can in and the instant it started going in boom compressor kicked on.. emptied the 6oz can and my a.c was iceee cold.. Ran great.
I care about my hoses for long run so a year later i found my r12 guy and hes been refilling it for me when i need it. Thats what im talking about.
Youre confusing r12A and r12.. R12a is the butane stuff and r12 is the old one.
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
Some folks are leery about a flammable refrigerant. If it leaks into the cab to the right mixture and light your cigar you might find out if the sheet metal splits before the glass blows out.
My son runs it in his To yota.
Hasn't blowed up yet.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.