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Ok I am on alternator #3 in 5000 miles.
1988 GW, the current alternator will put out 13.7 volts, but with the plug removed, "two prong plug"?
It will show a charge on the meter, until the lights are turned on, then zero.
Has any one had a charging problem similar?
The battery will hold a charge, I have a small solar panel on it.
I am going to get two alternator checked out, if both are dead, then go for #4.
Why would you run it with the plug out? The plug has both the sense wire that determines the field voltage and the excite wire from the ignition switch.
I would suspect the battery. Have you load tested the battery? A voltage reading does not tell you much, especially if you need a solar charger to keep the voltage up.
Your local parts store should have a load tester for the battery, and a test stand for the alternator. It seems very unlikely that you would get a string of defective alternators.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
tgreese wrote:Why would you run it with the plug out? The plug has both the sense wire that determines the field voltage and the excite wire from the ignition switch.
I would suspect the battery. Have you load tested the battery? A voltage reading does not tell you much, especially if you need a solar charger to keep the voltage up.
Your local parts store should have a load tester for the battery, and a test stand for the alternator. It seems very unlikely that you would get a string of defective alternators.
youd be suprised how BEEPY autoparts stores alternators are.
i bought a 136A for my moms 4.0 as the stock 116A died after 17 years. New alternator actually smoked up and burned up in a few minutes.. 2nd one lasted for 6 months and now im on the 3rd.
my 5.9 ZJ had this problem too. the original 150A died.. they dont make 150s as it was 5.9 specific so me and everyone else is stuck with the 5.2 136A ones. Im on the 3rd one now.
tbh im on the 3rd radiator too and 3rd power steering pump. The BEEP they sell in autozone and advanced auto and other stores should be illegal to sell.. They go bad in less then a year. My first radiator replacement leaked the day i got. so did the 2nd one.
even the manager in advanced auto admitted he sees returns daily for alternator and radiators and so forth. Ive also had CV axle shafts go bad in a year. The only things those stores are good for is tubing.. Everything else is junk.
even the brake rotors are junk they warp so easily...
Tbh ive had it with them..
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
The sad part is there are very few auto parts rebuilders left. so even if you go to another store its probably rebuilt by the same people. unless you buy a new one.
True, thats what really iritates me. China, and the companies that go to them specially for autoparts are BEEPING everyone over.
I personally wonder how they make any money when someone returns an alternator 3 times. They have to ship it back, rebuild it, takes time money, ect ect..
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
Doing that today, taking 2 in hand, if both are defective, it's the alternator, if one works, it's the gremlins.
I am planing on driving this 30 year old jeep for another 20 years. So I want the wiring to simplified, and bullet proof.
I have lots of questions, as the engine is NOT fully mechanical, like the diesel I want to build into. Little 3" x 3" box. On drivers side fender, stops the engine if unplugged. The 6×6 yellow box near the passenger foot in the cab, it will run without it.
Markstrimaran wrote:Doing that today, taking 2 in hand, if both are defective, it's the alternator, if one works, it's the gremlins.
I am planing on driving this 30 year old jeep for another 20 years. So I want the wiring to simplified, and bullet proof.
I have lots of questions, as the engine is NOT fully mechanical, like the diesel I want to build into. Little 3" x 3" box. On drivers side fender, stops the engine if unplugged. The 6×6 yellow box near the passenger foot in the cab, it will run without it.
Some picture from my 1988 grand wagoneer, with some electrical box's, of no know, purpose.
The last one is a starter relay?
The Haynes and Chiltons manuals try to cover too many years, are too sketchy, and contain a lot of errors. The TSM for your year is the best single reference for your Jeep.
You're welcome. I thought you were asking about the devices at the center of each picture. The 10SI/12SI is not that complicated - it has three connections and ground. The large red wire charges the battery. The plug has two wires, the brown excite wire and the red sense wire. The sense wire connects back to the main charge wire, and provides a signal for how much voltage to send to the alternator field. The more voltage to the field, the higher the output. The field voltage increases until the sense wire voltage matches the reference (a zener diode) in the voltage regulator. The brown excite wire is a resistance wire connected to the ignition switch. The excite wire provides a voltage feed at low current to start the alternator generating. Unlike a generator, an alternator needs an external voltage to start generating. Once generating, it feeds back into itself to maintain its magnetic field and maintain a voltage output. Without the excite wire, the alternator must spin very fast to start self-generating.
There is a test hole on the alternator that you can short out to force it to charge at maximum voltage. Take a look at the '82 TSM here, section 1-E http://oljeep.com/gw/82_tsm_2/82Wagonee ... rPlant.pdf - the TSM really walks you through testing the charging system. It would be better to get the TSM for your year, but the '82 TSM will give you the charts on how to proceed.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
tgreese wrote:The Haynes and Chiltons manuals try to cover too many years, are too sketchy, and contain a lot of errors. The TSM for your year is the best single reference for your Jeep.
You're welcome. I thought you were asking about the devices at the center of each picture. The 10SI/12SI is not that complicated - it has three connections and ground. The large red wire charges the battery. The plug has two wires, the brown excite wire and the red sense wire. The sense wire connects back to the main charge wire, and provides a signal for how much voltage to send to the alternator field. The more voltage to the field, the higher the output. The field voltage increases until the sense wire voltage matches the reference (a zener diode) in the voltage regulator. The brown excite wire is a resistance wire connected to the ignition switch. The excite wire provides a voltage feed at low current to start the alternator generating. Unlike a generator, an alternator needs an external voltage to start generating. Once generating, it feeds back into itself to maintain its magnetic field and maintain a voltage output. Without the excite wire, the alternator must spin very fast to start self-generating.
There is a test hole on the alternator that you can short out to force it to charge at maximum voltage. Take a look at the '82 TSM here, section 1-E http://oljeep.com/gw/82_tsm_2/82Wagonee ... rPlant.pdf - the TSM really walks you through testing the charging system. It would be better to get the TSM for your year, but the '82 TSM will give you the charts on how to proceed.
We're can I buy one at? I am almost afraid to Google search TSM . LOL
