I got the BJ's water pump and it worked awesome.
Also got a performer grind cam, though not performer and the rebuild shop installed it. Honestly can't tell if it made a difference since my engine before that was anemic.
As @letank said - whatever components you decide to use, make sure they pay attention to casting fluff, oil circulation in general. I know as a tradesman myself how offensive outside info can be, because it means I don't have command of my trade. But, if you can buy this and get them to read it, your rebuild should go out awesome.
http://theamcforum.com/forum/bj-builds- ... 55271.html
I have a PDF of that book but really want this dude to see the money. It's amazing and a great resource for all of us.
I do think that with FSJs "if it ain't broke don't fix it" is some good advice to heed. In many cases, if you replace something that's working with something newer, you're actually getting something worse. I drive around with a powermaster alternator in case my 180,000 mile alt decides to give up the ghost. Chances are it will outlive the engine. Junkyard ignition modules also. New doesn't = good.
Things I would do if money were no option:
- I would go HEI of some sort. Whether the MSD pro-billet or homegrown. If you go homegrown though, you have the option of an adjustable vac canister without installing a Mr. Gasket can. If I knew then what I do know now... IFSJA has a great write up on that by Ristow.
- Lose the air pump, keep the cat, plug the holes in your manifolds. Make sure your cat is a newer model that doesn't need air injection to work properly (no air injection port). Airpump costs 5hp. BJ's sells a sweet stainless exhaust setup I bought.
- I run the K&N open element but technically what you really want to do is get another air cleaner from a FSJ and run dual snorkels. You can look around forums for this mod. You actually have another air port behind your washer / coolant bottle. Though, technically, I've personally only noticed an increase in throttle response from an open element. But we are talking theory here. If you want to run an open element, I've done so in 110 degree weather. Think any lack of response was from the high operation temp of my motor.
You have carb & intake covered it looks like.
I don't run an EGR but see no reason not to. If your intake allows it, keep it on, it's only a good thing and under high-load conditions will not open. It only cools your combustion temps at light load, which is a bonus.
I'm able to pass emissions in a state that looks only to see if you have a cat installed. And am running no EGR, no air pump, none of the other stuff.
However, a bunch of that stuff like the temp controlled vacuum switches to adjust vac advance or heat risers into the stock air cleaner actually make your truck easier to drive. I know that when I start up my truck and immediately move the ass end out of the garage to not asphyxiate my family, I need to stab the gas twice or it'll die. I know that I then need to sit there with my ass-end out of the garage for a minute or so until my intake heats up, then I'm on my way. If it weren't just me driving my truck I would have kept all the features that allowed them to market this truck to the blue blood set.
~j