After owning the Honcho for just over a year... its Grand Wag Time!

[Charles Kline]

She runs really well, runs a bit rich but starts right up and purrs.

The only rust is behind the pass rear wheel well.

I'm convinced the original owner (older gentlemen) took amazingly great care of it.

[Charles Kline]

When Nikkormat was over the other day he let me know about a product I hadn't heard about yet, Mothers VLR. This stuff is amazing.



I used it to clean and condition the front seats. Granted they were very good to begin with.

Before:








After:








My favorite part is how it makes it smell like freshly tanned leather.


It worked really well on the floor mat rubber logo too, when I sprayed it on I could see it soaking into the material.

[Lumpskie]

Man those seats and mats look great!

[Nikkormat]

VLR is good stuff! Don't forget to do the dash. The 74's dash drank down probably a quarter bottle before it stopped soaking in. Door panels love it too.

Need a miracle cleaner/restorer for the anodized aluminum surfaces? Magic stainless fridge cleaner. Results aren't permanent but will last a few months. Haven't tried it on chrome but I imagine it'd work just as well. Spray it on heavy, let it sit for 20 seconds or so, and then buff it off with a clean cloth. BAM! Like new.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Magic-17-oz-St ... /205187994

It will leave oily residue on single stage enamel paint on older Jeeps. Haven't ever tried to remove it as my paint is already ruined but if you are concerned about that sort of thing you've been warned.

[Charles Kline]

You know its serious when it when you get to this level.




I've get rid of the steering wheel cover, its nice and soft but looks dopey AF.

[Cheapthrills]

Looking good bud you getting the wheels you bought from me cleaned up? I wanna see pics of it with them on the old girl!

[candymancan]

Thanks for the suggestion on the bumper cleaner.. i have some stainless steel fridge cleaner.. going to try it.. I hate the foggy streaky bumpers.. Its the only thing on my wagoneer outside that doesnt look perfect..

[az chip]

Nice waggy!

[Charles Kline]

Took GranWag to get its emissions done. it didn't go well.






Drove it there after work so it had a good chance to warm up. Fresh oil change, new air filter.

The numbers are so far up there it makes me think the cat has been hallowed out (this Wag came from up in the mountains - no emissions.)
I just ordered a new Cat so we'll see how it goes.

I've got 10 days to do something to bring it in for the free retest.

oh boy.

-Charles

[tedlovesjeeps71]

Stupid emissions. good luck!


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[Charles Kline]

I found the problem! I had a feeling the cat was gutted so I cut it out and sure enough!

[tedlovesjeeps71]

I found the problem! I had a feeling the cat was gutted so I cut it out and sure enough!

I hate hacks. A spun cat can be had for like 60 bucks.



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[Charles Kline]

I've got a pretty cool wife...

[tedlovesjeeps71]

That's awesome! You surely have a keeper!!!


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[Nikkormat]

Cool! Happy birthday!

[Charles Kline]

I got the new exhaust all welded together and installed. Today was the last day of the free retest within 10 days, Im still having the weird hesitation issue but I thought i might as well take advantage of the free retest.


SO CLOSE!

[tedlovesjeeps71]

I wonder how much you could tweak it to get it to pass? Run some Acetone through the fuel, maybe add a little advance to the ignition.? May have some build up on the valves or perhaps some E-fuel was used before it was parked and has created issues in the carb??


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[Tatsadasayago]

Your CO and Hc levels were cut in half by replacing the cat but the Nitrogen Oxide level is still high. This means your engine is experiencing very high combustion chamber temperatures. High NOX levels prevent the cat from doing it's job.
There are several causes for high NOX readings:
Misfire condition
Malfunctioning or improperly adjusted EGR valve
Leak in exhaust pipes upstream of converter
Excessive carbon deposits in combustion chamber
Improper spark advance
Blocked coolant passage
Overly lean air-fuel mixture
Damaged cold air duct

Since you mentioned a hesitation problem, one would assume your engine is running lean. This is common and compounded if the EGR and A.I.R. system isn't working properly. Assuming you didn't make any adjustments to the carb and ignition between tests it's fair to say the engine is still putting out the same numbers, but are being 'hidden' from the analyzer.

Assuming your previous levels are the same, I would suggest your engine is experiencing a leanout and/or lean misfire. It can be confusing since typically high CO = over-rich and Hc = leanout/misfire. What's not commonly known is an over-lean condition will cause the CO levels to climb along with the Hc. Looking at the histogram on your first test, you can see the levels changing depending on speed.
It's been years since I was a smog tech, but what I see in your test results tells me you have two things going on at the moment.
I think the levels are high because of a high float level, possible charcoal canister/purge valve failure, leanout/lean miss, improper EGR/A.I.R injection function and possibly obstructed air intake flow.

For the purpose of passing this test, I would suggest you confirm the EGR/AIR system is working properly and the when warmed up, the diverter door on the air filter housing is moving to the COLD/FRESH position. One trick I used to get high NoX vehicles to pass was by forcing the AIR diverter valve into the apply mode, which kept fresh air pumping into the manifolds... *Grin*

[tedlovesjeeps71]

Your CO and Hc levels were cut in half by replacing the cat but the Nitrogen Oxide level is still high. This means your engine is experiencing very high combustion chamber temperatures. High NOX levels prevent the cat from doing it's job.
There are several causes for high NOX readings:
Misfire condition
Malfunctioning or improperly adjusted EGR valve
Leak in exhaust pipes upstream of converter
Excessive carbon deposits in combustion chamber
Improper spark advance
Blocked coolant passage
Overly lean air-fuel mixture
Damaged cold air duct

Since you mentioned a hesitation problem, one would assume your engine is running lean. This is common and compounded if the EGR and A.I.R. system isn't working properly. Assuming you didn't make any adjustments to the carb and ignition between tests it's fair to say the engine is still putting out the same numbers, but are being 'hidden' from the analyzer.

Assuming your previous levels are the same, I would suggest your engine is experiencing a leanout and/or lean misfire. It can be confusing since typically high CO = over-rich and Hc = leanout/misfire. What's not commonly known is an over-lean condition will cause the CO levels to climb along with the Hc. Looking at the histogram on your first test, you can see the levels changing depending on speed.
It's been years since I was a smog tech, but what I see in your test results tells me you have two things going on at the moment.
I think the levels are high because of a high float level, possible charcoal canister/purge valve failure, leanout/lean miss, improper EGR/A.I.R injection function and possibly obstructed air intake flow.

For the purpose of passing this test, I would suggest you confirm the EGR/AIR system is working properly and the when warmed up, the diverter door on the air filter housing is moving to the COLD/FRESH position. One trick I used to get high NoX vehicles to pass was by forcing the AIR diverter valve into the apply mode, which kept fresh air pumping into the manifolds... *Grin*

Wow....
I need you as a mentor!



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[Tatsadasayago]

LOL@Ted

Another trick you might employ is to minimize the ignition advance slightly.
The old NOX Device scam back in the 70s (Similar to our AMC CTO stwitch) sensed coolant temperature and allowed vacuum advance until the temp went up. Once operating temp was reached, it closed off or restricted the vacuum signal causing the engine to run with retarded ignition timing. This did reduce NOX levels but often caused Hc and CO levels to climb as well as making the engine run like crap.
If your vac advance module is the GM adjustable style, you can reduce to total amount of advance and possibly reduce the NOX level.
If not, another trick is to block the mechanical advance weights or add heavier springs. This will retard the timing at higher RPMs and help keep the HC and CO levels under the limit.
Not having an analyzer on hand to test the effects of your changes before going to the testing station can turn into several visits which cost bucks. You may want to consider finding a shop that provides emissions repair and has an analyzer. Showing up armed with info on how to reduce levels can speed up the repair time and possibly cost you less than 4 or 5 failed testing sessions.