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My drivers side vent window is missing the little latch that locks it closed. Is that something that can be replaced or do I need a whole new vent window? I can't see any way to attach a new cam or anything, it's just the hole where the old one was.
Its an 87. I should probably just replace the entire window anyway. It looks like it has been missing for quite some time as the trim is pretty rusted.
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I would be looking for the whole vent window assembly with frame and rubber. You pretty much have to gut the door to swap it out. That style vent started in 78. I think the vent glass had a black frame beginning in 84. Could be wrong on that last statement.
Broken post, I tried the jbweld on my passenger side as replacing the vent window involves removing the all window system. The vent assembly has to be rotated backward for removal.
the jb weld lasted a year until someone decided to unlatch the vent.... I added an extra nut to make a base for a long bolt that went thru the latch after removing the locking pin.... pict somewhere if needed.
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
Somewhere around 78/79, I think, they changed the vent glass frames.
80 and newer have a chrome or black powder coated frame that covered the full bottom and the full angle back of the wing glass.
The older type had a stainless steel frame that covered all of the bottom and maybe two thirds of the angle, a different locking lever and a different pivot. If the pivot has a screw in it, you have the older style, the screw goes through a hole in the wing glass. If it has a tab welded to it, and uses a rivet, it is the newer style.
letank wrote:Broken post, I tried the jbweld on my passenger side as replacing the vent window involves removing the all window system. The vent assembly has to be rotated backward for removal.
I have done it without removing the window components. I drilled out the rivets in the outer edge of the door and was able to wiggle the whole frame and vent out, and the donor in. I could get pics if you want them...
back from the past, I finally decided to replace the window after finding a good one, remember that the offset washer had to go inside the channel underneath the frame, otherwise the rubber seal will be too compressed to allow normal operation, as per this old post, the window on the left is the later edition after 79, that shows the U channel
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
I was asked about the repair so here are the no so succesful tips if somebody else operates the vent
I lather so much JB weld to include a nut inside the jbweld blob...
I probably sanded as much metal to get a clean rust free area so the JBweld would stick... probalby the 5min JBweld, it needs to sit overnight. But as said the first elephant that tried to operate the lock, it separated.
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
You can hold the vent window closed permanently with a short piece of iron and a couple of big sheet metal screws. All the vans of a vending company I used to work for were treated this way. Very secure.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
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