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I'm not sure what the story is with 1988 missing from the manuals offered. The notation at BJ's says the 1989 manual applies when you have the Mitsubishi starter. Somebody here may know more about that.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
It's back, new battery, new ground, switched alternator, charges only if the head lights are off.
No starter solenoid click, no start, and new battery at 12.10 volts
Fun fun
well if it means anything. my Jeep when the a.c and headlights are on the gauge and witing inside the Jeep with a multimeter reads like 12v.. But on the battery post it shows 14v.. When Jeep is off battery shows 12.4-12.8v but inside it reads 10v
Somewhere from thr battery to inside the cabin i have like this huge power drain somewhere i wish i could help you and myself but other then fixing bad wiring and soldering. im not good at tracking down stuff like this.
Im confused to why the inside of the cabin will drop with the headlights and a.c on below the 13v line and a multimeter even reads 12v.. But the battery will show 14v.. Why is that ??
As for Jeep not starting when hit it was my battery terminals needed cleaning despite them looking clean it was weird but it worked..
Did you replace the ground on the engine block to motor mount on the frame passenger side ? Mine was loose somehow so i tightend the bolt. But i also added a i think 10ga cable from battery to the engine mount just in case.. the cable is kimda long but still cant ever have too many grounds.
Also how is your alternator wired. I know with new alternators you jad to splice the wires differently.. Like brown.purple wires.. I can take pics of mine to show you how the previous owner did it.
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
The TSM has a flow chart to diagnose no-charge problems. All I have is the '82-83 manual, but in there the charging system is section 1E. The TSM really lays it out for you, step by step. The '82 TSM is free to read or download at http://www.oljeep.com - by '82, all Jeeps used the Delco alternators with the internal regulator, like the 10SI and 12SI. I suggest you at least read that section, if not study it. About 15 pages with lots of illustrations, not difficult. With electrical issues, it's difficult to diagnose without the car in front of you, and you need a systematic approach. Those charts will help you to isolate the problem.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Markstrimaran wrote:Opps, anti theft toggle,
Ok it starts again.
Alternator is charging at 14 volts,
As long as the lights are off,
A bit late, as far as light on or off, are you using the voltmeter on the dash or a real voltmeter directly onto the battery. At some point the connectors can developp a bit of oxidation.
as for manual, you can cheap out and use Tom's site
I have the same issues and frankly it isnt a dash meter issue... Testing at battery means nothing to me, because mine at battery will show 14v charging, and if i measure in the cab on any wire, itll be at 11-12v if i have lights and a.c on.. Something on these wagoneers causes a big drop from the battery to everything after. So it might charge fine at the battery but there is a huge drop after evertwhere else, It affects headlights fog lights, breaks, windows, everything in cabin. Its quiet strange. Only time i see 13-13.5 in cabin with everything on is when the Jeep is driving at 1500-2500 rpm. Once you drop to 1k or less then voltage everywhere crashes except on the battery posts.. Very weird..
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
candymancan wrote:I have the same issues and frankly it isnt a dash meter issue... Testing at battery means nothing to me, because mine at battery will show 14v charging, and if i measure in the cab on any wire, itll be at 11-12v if i have lights and a.c on.. Something on these wagoneers causes a big drop from the battery to everything after. So it might charge fine at the battery but there is a huge drop after evertwhere else, It affects headlights fog lights, breaks, windows, everything in cabin. Its quiet strange. Only time i see 13-13.5 in cabin with everything on is when the Jeep is driving at 1500-2500 rpm. Once you drop to 1k or less then voltage everywhere crashes except on the battery posts.. Very weird..
Then it is the connector at the firewall, next to the brake booster in the engine bay, feeding the main at the fuse panel.
A shortcut is to pull a wire from the battery to the ... circuit... of .... thinking, thinking and nothing is happening... I need to visualize the wiring...
I forgot, first clean the other wires at the alternator, whatever they are, one is the field and the other... the contact can corrode...
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
candymancan wrote:Yea thats all been done. If its on the firewall then i wouldnt know where to start im not good with that lol not with 50 wires
pull the connector, IIRC the attachment is on the engine side, pull apart, clean and you are good to go... or remove the feeder wire and run a new one. This is what I did on the 74... a zillion years ago...
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
It's a bulkhead connector. One bolt in the center and it unplugs.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
It disconnects from the cabin side of the harness. It's actually two pieces on the engine side, one half that is the under-hood harness and the other half to the back of the car. It plugs in to the back of the fuse panel, which is held to the inside of the firewall with 4 long thin bolts - you can see the ends of the bolts from the engine side of the firewall.
They are usually filled with dielectric grease, which is either brown or turns brown with age. Buy a can of cheap contact cleaner and clean the heck out of it, then apply new grease.
Yea ive cleaned alot of connectors on the Jeep with old greese that looked green and part of it was heavy corrosion. The headlight connectors and turn signal signals were really bad.. I actually cleaned them with brake cleaner worked better then contact cleaner.
If i have time tomorrow ill try to take the harness off and look at the connections
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)