Alternator no charging

[Markstrimaran]

ok i thought it was the green corrosion that builds up lol

They are some very rouph lead, lol 30 years of jump starting, and battery charging.

I will definitely replace all the grounds. The next big problem, is restarting when hot.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[candymancan]

yea mine did that.. it was the grounds and battery terminals

[tgreese]

... would be better to get the TSM for your year, but the '82 TSM will give you the charts on how to proceed.

We're can I buy one at? I am almost afraid to Google search TSM . LOL

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Hi - suprprised no one else answered this by now. BJ's sells print copies - http://www.bjsoffroad.com/1989-Jeep-Fac ... _1059.html - as long as you have the Mitsubishi starter. You can get the same manual from RockAuto on CD-ROM if you look under 1989 Jeep GW. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php ... 72&jsn=491

I'm not sure what the story is with 1988 missing from the manuals offered. The notation at BJ's says the 1989 manual applies when you have the Mitsubishi starter. Somebody here may know more about that.

[Markstrimaran]

Ok thanks,

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Markstrimaran]

It's back, new battery, new ground, switched alternator, charges only if the head lights are off.
No starter solenoid click, no start, and new battery at 12.10 volts
Fun fun

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[candymancan]

well if it means anything. my Jeep when the a.c and headlights are on the gauge and witing inside the Jeep with a multimeter reads like 12v.. But on the battery post it shows 14v.. When Jeep is off battery shows 12.4-12.8v but inside it reads 10v

Somewhere from thr battery to inside the cabin i have like this huge power drain somewhere i wish i could help you and myself but other then fixing bad wiring and soldering. im not good at tracking down stuff like this.

Im confused to why the inside of the cabin will drop with the headlights and a.c on below the 13v line and a multimeter even reads 12v.. But the battery will show 14v.. Why is that ??

As for Jeep not starting when hit it was my battery terminals needed cleaning despite them looking clean it was weird but it worked..

Did you replace the ground on the engine block to motor mount on the frame passenger side ? Mine was loose somehow so i tightend the bolt. But i also added a i think 10ga cable from battery to the engine mount just in case.. the cable is kimda long but still cant ever have too many grounds.

Also how is your alternator wired. I know with new alternators you jad to splice the wires differently.. Like brown.purple wires.. I can take pics of mine to show you how the previous owner did it.

[tgreese]

The TSM has a flow chart to diagnose no-charge problems. All I have is the '82-83 manual, but in there the charging system is section 1E. The TSM really lays it out for you, step by step. The '82 TSM is free to read or download at http://www.oljeep.com - by '82, all Jeeps used the Delco alternators with the internal regulator, like the 10SI and 12SI. I suggest you at least read that section, if not study it. About 15 pages with lots of illustrations, not difficult. With electrical issues, it's difficult to diagnose without the car in front of you, and you need a systematic approach. Those charts will help you to isolate the problem.

[Markstrimaran]

Opps, anti theft toggle,
Ok it starts again.
Alternator is charging at 14 volts,
As long as the lights are off,


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Markstrimaran]

Opps, anti theft toggle,
Ok it starts again.
Alternator is charging at 14 volts,
As long as the lights are off,


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

So far , new battery, new fan belt, it went out once last week, fan belt got loose..

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[letank]

Opps, anti theft toggle,
Ok it starts again.
Alternator is charging at 14 volts,
As long as the lights are off,

A bit late, as far as light on or off, are you using the voltmeter on the dash or a real voltmeter directly onto the battery. At some point the connectors can developp a bit of oxidation.

as for manual, you can cheap out and use Tom's site

http://www.oljeep.com/

88 will be very similar to 89

[candymancan]

I have the same issues and frankly it isnt a dash meter issue... Testing at battery means nothing to me, because mine at battery will show 14v charging, and if i measure in the cab on any wire, itll be at 11-12v if i have lights and a.c on.. Something on these wagoneers causes a big drop from the battery to everything after. So it might charge fine at the battery but there is a huge drop after evertwhere else, It affects headlights fog lights, breaks, windows, everything in cabin. Its quiet strange. Only time i see 13-13.5 in cabin with everything on is when the Jeep is driving at 1500-2500 rpm. Once you drop to 1k or less then voltage everywhere crashes except on the battery posts.. Very weird..

[letank]

I have the same issues and frankly it isnt a dash meter issue... Testing at battery means nothing to me, because mine at battery will show 14v charging, and if i measure in the cab on any wire, itll be at 11-12v if i have lights and a.c on.. Something on these wagoneers causes a big drop from the battery to everything after. So it might charge fine at the battery but there is a huge drop after evertwhere else, It affects headlights fog lights, breaks, windows, everything in cabin. Its quiet strange. Only time i see 13-13.5 in cabin with everything on is when the Jeep is driving at 1500-2500 rpm. Once you drop to 1k or less then voltage everywhere crashes except on the battery posts.. Very weird..

Then it is the connector at the firewall, next to the brake booster in the engine bay, feeding the main at the fuse panel.

A shortcut is to pull a wire from the battery to the ... circuit... of .... thinking, thinking and nothing is happening... I need to visualize the wiring...

I forgot, first clean the other wires at the alternator, whatever they are, one is the field and the other... the contact can corrode...

[candymancan]

Yea thats all been done. If its on the firewall then i wouldnt know where to start im not good with that lol not with 50 wires

[letank]

Yea thats all been done. If its on the firewall then i wouldnt know where to start im not good with that lol not with 50 wires

pull the connector, IIRC the attachment is on the engine side, pull apart, clean and you are good to go... or remove the feeder wire and run a new one. This is what I did on the 74... a zillion years ago...

[candymancan]

You can pull the connector right out ? Isnt it bolted on from the inside or something ?

[SJTD]

It's a bulkhead connector. One bolt in the center and it unplugs.

[candymancan]

And this pulls the entire harness out ? ok ill do that then tomorrow

[tgreese]

It disconnects from the cabin side of the harness. It's actually two pieces on the engine side, one half that is the under-hood harness and the other half to the back of the car. It plugs in to the back of the fuse panel, which is held to the inside of the firewall with 4 long thin bolts - you can see the ends of the bolts from the engine side of the firewall.

They are usually filled with dielectric grease, which is either brown or turns brown with age. Buy a can of cheap contact cleaner and clean the heck out of it, then apply new grease.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-E ... ct+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-D ... ric+grease

[candymancan]

Yea ive cleaned alot of connectors on the Jeep with old greese that looked green and part of it was heavy corrosion. The headlight connectors and turn signal signals were really bad.. I actually cleaned them with brake cleaner worked better then contact cleaner.

If i have time tomorrow ill try to take the harness off and look at the connections

[tgreese]

Whatever works ... brake cleaner may soften the plastic. A flux brush and some Xylene is probably better.