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Can anyone recommend a good, cordless impact driver? Not TOO expensive. Decided Im gonna get some things done myself on the Jeep and could use one. I could probably rent one, but I would like to have one in case I need it. Handy way to change a flat if I have one or working under the hood.
This is really simple, pick a brand (for battery interchange) and stick with it. Every cordless impact you can find in a store is made by one of two companies, either Stanley or Techtron. There are others, like Metabo, Snap-on, and the commercial DeWalt (Stanley) you have to buy from a distributor, with premium performance at a premium price, but unless it's your livelihood, they aren't worth it.
For a guy in his garage, there's no significant difference between Black&Decker, Ryobi, Porter Cable, etc.
Edit to add>>> don't let that "assembled in USA DeWalt crap at Lowe's and home Depot fool you. I've opened that box several times and every time half the stuff is tagged "made in China" and nothing has been tagged "made in USA". The commercial DeWalt from distributors costs more, has Korean batteries, German tool chucks, and US plastic and wiring. The parts are interchangable, but way different quality.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
I’m probably gonna have a bunch of people tell me I’m stupid for this but...if your not gonna use it on a regular basis a harbor freight model would probably work Perfect for you. Spend an extra $10 on the warranty, then if it breaks trade it in for another.
I agree on HF but if you do get one of theirs, use the heck out of it right away. Maybe rotate the tires on a couple 3/4 ton trucks.
It seems their stuff will die right off or be ok.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Harbor freight huh? That sounds worth a look...reason I say that is cause I bought an 18v lith drill from Walmart for 18 bucks and it out performs the old ryobi drill I bought from a pawn shop...not to mention the Battery last 10 times longer.
I use a torque wrench to tighten mine. I might spin them on with a gun but not tighten them with it.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
I agree with all the others here. I have Craftsman at home, for two reasons. First, they make a C3 cordless tool for everything, from weedwhackers to rattleguns. Second, it's all backwards compatible. The latest and greatest lithium ion battery will fit in and run a 12 year old drill. The only other brand I know of that does that is DeWalt. Most the others make periodic changes so that you have to buy a new tool every 3-5 years when they update a design.
I really like to beat the "Made in USA" drum, more than many here, but all the homeowner/hobbyist level cordless tools are made in China, so nobody could fault you for picking Harbor Freight. Like SJTD said, try to break it right out the box. If it's a lemon, it'll typically die quick and you can keep trading it in. If it doesn't, you'll probably get your money's worth out of it.
I have a stack of HF "Drillmaster" grinders just so I don't have to keep changing discs, then one German made Metabo specifically for my meat axe. That's about the only tool you don't want on the business end of a cheap grinder.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
I have both the Milwaukee 18v “mid torque” 750 ft lb and their bigger 1100 ft lb versions. The mid torque one is nice, light, not much different than a drill and can do about everything except bust off lug nuts put on by an air wrench at a shop. I haven’t found anything the big boy can’t break. Or break loose LOL. It’s a monster and I prefer to use the smaller one most of the time. The advice given about sticking with a brand for battery interchange is great. TTI makes most of the major brands but the batteries don’t interchange. I’ve been happy with my Milwaukee stuff. Their 3/8” 12v ratchet is great also
Go with the highest torque that you can afford and the higher the voltage the more the power--in most cases. I use Ryobi in my shop because of the variety of tools and they are mostly good. However, I was disapointed in the 1/2" impact. I has 3 speeds but only works on #2. Number 3 for highest toques trips the overload and #1 has speed but no torque. Its not the gun because I replaced the first one and the second one acts the same.
The one thing I will note is that not all impacts torque ratings are measured the same way. A 1/2 drive Dewalt for instance has noticeably more power than this other cheap off-brand one I have used. The one linked up top claims 280lb ft, but I would not trust that rating.