1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 5:54 pm

I finally got my phone camera to cooperate enough to get a couple pictures of what the color and the texture really looks like. Somewhat.

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This picture was taken only two hours after shooting. Once all the volatiles evaporate away the gloss cuts down to satin and the texture isn't so pronounced.
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Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 5:54 pm

.
Originally posted by Achilles 02-22-2013 07:05 PM
________________________________________
Will you put the mix recipe up for all of us who might be planning on doing the same thing Resbum
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 5:55 pm

Here’s the primer I’m using. U-Tech E380. Black is E381.
I’ve sealed all the seams with U-POL Tiger Seal.
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OMNI MBC with and w/o binder. W/o is for tinting the Raptor
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These are the reducers I’m using. I’m told that Shop Line is the house brand of OMNI. I’m mostly using the medium.
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And, of course, the tintable Raptor. US Part number 0823 Reorder Code RLT/1
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Here’s the ratios:
12 oz Raptor (3 parts)
4 oz hardener (1 part)
1.75 oz OMNI MBC w/o binder (11% of 16 oz)
1.75 oz JR506 Medium Reducer (11% of 16 oz)

Note- I measure the Raptor in a 24 oz PPG container and everything else in 7 oz PPG containers.

I did the bottom of the cab with a 1.4mm needle in the gun, but two layers were pretty thin and I had to add two more the next day. The above picture shows the texture using a 1.8mm needle in the gun. While the gun was shooting the gauge at the gun handle was showing 25 psi. I also was making pretty slow passes so that it would build up. The humidity has been around 45% and the temperature has been in the high 60’s in the homemade booth.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 5:55 pm

All the primering/paint info in one place

This is just to recap all the painting info in one post.

Equipment used. Post Need to update
Materials/Ratios used. Post Need to update
Procedures followed. Post Need to update

Note added after mix ratios in the above post.

I haven't done it, but I was told to use lacquer thinner to reduce the U-TECH primer, if needed, but it's not recommended.

Flash times:
15 minutes between color coat and Raptor
30 minutes between coats of Raptor

Texture difference between the 1.4mm needle and the 1.8mm needle:
In this picture of texture I managed to take it in an area that transitions between when I painted the bottom with the 1.4mm needle and when I painted the firewall with the 1.8mm needle. You can see the overlap. The far left/bottom of the picture is the bottom (1.4) and the rest of the pic is the 1.8. Remember, in the picture the bottom is fully cured while the rest was freshly shot two hours earlier.

Layman's description of difference is: sand/grit(1.4) vs. lizard skin(1.8)
Image
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 5:57 pm

.
Originally Posted by Mudbull
Looks amazing! Im glad you put up those product pics and mix ratios, i was planning on doing raptor for the underbody/underbed. Thanks also for putting the needle dia's of the gun. Is this a conventional gun, or, a pot gun, gravity feed?
________________________________________

.
Thank Achilles. I wouldn't have thought to post this detailed info if he hadn't asked. See more info below.
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 5:58 pm

Originally Posted by Mudbull
...(our cab still has glass in it and dont want to tip the cab).
________________________________________

Here's something I learned yesterday, and you are most definitely not going to want to hear it.

Two days ago I sealed the roof seams above the front window (brow) and doors. Yesterday I thought I would finish stripping the four roof pillars and get the primer shoot on the those. Basically, everything from the bottom of the windows up, so I could paint today. Instead, I ended up spending the whole day addressing all the seams, nooks, and crannies in the pillars and around the windshield. If I didn't know better I would swear Jeep intentionally designed the area around the front window to rust. No wonder it's an epidemic problem in our FSJ's. There are spot welds that are not ground smooth and seams that join in an ugly fashion all the way around the windshield. There's almost no way the windshield rubber can make a water tight seal in places. No exaggeration.

Now the part you don't want to hear. If you don't do any other major body/metal work I strongly encourage you to cut the windshield out and address all the seams the windshield rubber is suppose to seal to.

Unlike the modern car windshields we can remove ours without breaking/cracking them, and then reinstall it. $50 for a new windshield rubber is cheap compared to future rust issues. And, I'd bet there's already some rust in there you need to fix.

This is my unsolicited advice I strongly encourage everyone who reads this to do.

Resbum
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 5:58 pm

This will be the last post of showing individual pieces as they get painted. I think you guys get the idea by now. I’m happy that color and texture seem to be staying the same as I do different pieces and mix up different batches of primer, paint, and bedliner.

I got everything from the bottom of the windows up, inside and out, painted.

I could actually mount the cab now, if needed. The plan is to get it all done before mounting, but it’s nice knowing I could permanently mount it now if I had to.

I'll say this, if water can get past epoxy primer, Tiger Seal, and tinted bedliner and into the seams then I give up and the truck can just rust apart.

This pic shows the Tiger Seal all the way around the seams above the doors and front window. The roof is also sanded in prep for painting.
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The final product
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Image
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 5:59 pm

.
Originally posted by ???
Are you putting up a headliner at all or leaving it as is?
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:01 pm

Yep, I'll be installing a headliner. It's also getting the aluminum covered rubber and 1/4" neoprene insulation on all surfaces inside the cab.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:02 pm

This had been eating at me since I started this build. For the build I've had three cabs and each one of them had the area behind the foot fresh air inlets PACKED with dirt and crud. They were all rusting out in that area, too.

This was my last chance to deal with it easily. So, this morning I cut access openings into that area from the outside. I'm glad I did now. I have really good access to get in there high and low and remove and convert as much rust as possible, then primer, seam seal, and paint like the rest of the cab. And, hopefully, never have a rust problem in there again.

When I'm done I'll either sheetmetal screw or rivet a cover back over the opening.

Image

Looking up
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Looking down
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Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:03 pm

.
Originally posted by Mikel 03-01-2013 09:48 AM
________________________________________
I like what you did on the cowl. What I did is to GREATLY enlarge the drain holes and then spray the inside with rust inhibiting paint.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:03 pm

Thanks Mikel. Yep, while I work on it I'll be constantly looking for a solution to the problem.

Besides your method another thing I'll be looking at is possibly attaching a good size diameter hose that runs down to near the bottom of the fender. Then, once or twice a year reaming it out to keep it clean. That should also keep most any dirt from getting in through the bottom, if it was before. The passenger side foot inlet is now my heater air source so keeping the air as clean as possible is something I have to consider. Also, maybe install some kind of screening up near the windshield wiper arm shafts to help filter the big stuff from that end.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:03 pm

Man, I can’t believe I almost didn’t address those hidden areas. Now I am so glad I did. It only cost me one long day and $12.00 at Lowes to finish it. Now I can get back to painting.

I ended yesterday by sanding and getting every bit of rust scale out I could then hitting it with rust converter.
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Today I hit Lowes and bought the parts to modify the drain. $12. I cut the larger diameter end off the 1" X 1" Female Adapters.
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The rust converter cures black. I then hit every seam with Tiger seal
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Marked the opening, then made it fit.
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Image
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:04 pm

I then used more seam sealer to level the floor and make the drain the lowest point.
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Between the opening I made and the foot air opening I was able to hit every area front, back, high, and low with an extra thick coat of Raptor.
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The drain opening is 3/4” and the hose is 7/8” inside diameter. I left it 6” long and will trim it once the body work is in place
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Tomorrow when everything has dried I'll put some sealer on the covers and screw them in place.
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:05 pm

.
Originally posted by Mikel 03-03-2013 01:28 PM
________________________________________
Have you considered that your setup might get clogged with the leafs that tend to accumulate in the cowl?
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:05 pm

Yep. I'm working on that solution today while prep'ing the upper cowl area for paint.

Right now I'm at the shop posting from my phone. As soon as I transfer some pictures I'll post showing the fix.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:06 pm

I'm still working on the upper end of the cowl so no pictures of that yet.

Here's what the bottom looks like with the cover in place. I decided not to seal it for now so I can get in there, if needed. I'll seal it just before I mount the fenders.

I rotated this picture so it looks like it's upright.
Image
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Posts: 426
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:08 pm

Hopefully, this will keep most of the krap out.

First, I had to remove these sections to get access into the body work. I’m considering a couple different options for reinstalling them.
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I removed them because there’s no way to get your hand in there to address this mess, or get good paint coverage in there. These areas got the exact same rust removal, sealer, paint treatment I gave the lower areas. I could easily reach through this opening with one hand and touch my other hand placed through the lower opening. I would guestimate that with these two openings I was able to repair and treat 90% of the hidden area inside the cowl. The other 10% was all high side sheetmetal, so it will never see running or standing water accumulate.
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I have a stack of these crawlspace/attic screens for the cabin. It’s approximately 1/4” grid. They’re about $3 a piece.
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Cut/bend to fit and install so they slant towards the middle. Hopefully, that will help direct crud that direction to accumulate in the middle and help keep the screen clear longer. I used some buttonhead sheetmetal screws to attach them.
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Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:08 pm

I also had some fencing with 1/2" grid. I cut it to shape and when all the painting is done I’ll use seam sealer to attach it snuggly to the bottom side of the grill. That should stop any of the bigger stuff like leafs and branches from getting past the grill.
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The finished product. If I paint the screens flat black you shouldn't even see them.
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These are the two screens in relation to the 3/4” drain hole. Anything that does make it past the screens should be small enough to go out the drain with no problem. Time will tell.
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When all was finished and done this mod, (drain and screens), took about two days and cost $20 in materials, excluding paint and rust converter.
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:11 pm

Brief Intermission

Last weekend was the huge western Washington Jeep swap meet at the state fairgrounds, about 5 miles from my shop. I decided to take a day off and go. Thanks BJ’s Offroad for the vendors pass!

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While walking around I came to a booth selling bumper stickers, t-shirts, and other things. This was one of the things they had. It tickled my warped sense of humor and made me laugh.

Here’s something else that caught my eye. A very nicely setup cantilevered suspension. Sorry, I forgot to get the vendors name so I don’t know who makes it, but it’s extremely nice.
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This was my first time to the swap meet, but it won’t be my last. There were businesses with booths right on down to the individuals selling used parts for all makes of vehicles. It took me the better part of a day to cover everything.

Speaking of the swap meet and BJ’s; after two years of helping me build the truck Brent and Ryan finally got a chance to see what they’ve been helping me build. My shop space was literally on their way to the fairgrounds so Brent and Ryan stopped by on their way there. It was nice to finally meet you Ryan. For those who remember him, I also saw Matt at BJ’s booth, at the swap meet. He said life’s treating him well.

Now back to the regularly scheduled thread.
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:25 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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