1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

Originally posted by budojeepr 03-25-2012 09:52 AM
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I second the wiring advice. You'll be glad in a number of ways, including the peace of mind in just knowing how it all works.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

Originally posted by rwjohnstone 03-25-2012 08:07 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Resbum
Definitely do a rewire!!! It's really not that expensive or hard if you plan it out good. I didn't even hesitate. The VERY FIRST TIME I saw the wiring in this truck I knew I was doing it.:D
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I agree, there is nothing better than knowing how something is put together on your own rig, takes out that bit of wonder, hhhhhmmm are those 50 year old wires grounding out.....
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

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Quote:
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Originally Posted by rwjohnstone
..... hhhhhmmm are those 50 year old wires grounding out.....
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Yep, that and just having all the fuses in one location make it worth the effort.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

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Originally posted by Mudbull 03-26-2012 07:44 AM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Resbum
Yep, that and just having all the fuses in one location make it worth the effort.
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Oh I completely agree with you guys, we put new painless systems in everything; I've already ripped the original wiring out of the kaiser. Sorry I wasn't being clear I was contemplating using my donors (96 ram) wiring to save a few hundred dollars and maybe some headaches (maybe cause some too)
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

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Originally posted by rwjohnstone 03-26-2012 08:07 AM
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Quote:
________________________________________
Originally Posted by Mudbull
Oh I completely agree with you guys, we put new painless systems in everything; I've already ripped the original wiring out of the kaiser. Sorry I wasn't being clear I was contemplating using my donors (96 ram) wiring to save a few hundred dollars and maybe some headaches (maybe cause some too)
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I know what you mean, my trucks setup from the PO had every wire coming from the ignition with 1 or 2 in-line fuses all taped together and pulled up into the dash with twine......:banghead: I dealt with that for 2 summers, not worth the headache.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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Edit-Note- Originally posted MUCH earlier in the build

The old gauge cluster area is really small. In order to get the gauges I want there to fit I need to open up the area to the size of the outer edge of the trim piece. This gives me an area 5 1/2 X 11 1/2 to work with.
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While I was removing the old dashboard from the old cab to mock up the notch the face fell off the old gauge cluster housing. While holding it I realized how cool and classic it is and started toying with the idea of seeing if I could use it in the new cluster. Since I can't find my old cluster drawing anywhere I drew up a new one last night while watching the boobtube. I put the face under a piece of paper and used the pencil to high light it, then cut it out.
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This is something I came up with. The corners of the panel will actually be rounded. I'm open to other suggestions, also. After seeing this I'm positive I want to keep some of the old Jeep charm in the gauge cluster. This also allows me to use the old turn signal lights and I get two dumby/warning lights. Another thing I could try is to put the gear selector lights for the auto trans in the old odometer window.
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 10:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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I'm almost positive this is how I'm going to lay out the instruments. There's a few warning lights, etc., not drawn in, but they'll go in the open areas on the panel. I have (2) old instrument faces to work with, so I may cut the warning lights out of one set, flip them over, and put them between the two on the face I'm going to use. This would give four warning lights. The gear indicator lights could go in the old odometer window area. I'm still debating how I'll mount the five gauges on the dash, but I have a couple ideas.
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Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 10:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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Rough fabrication of the dash mounted Gauge housing

I did the rough fabrication on the gauge housing that will sit on top of the dashboard. I'll finish it once I have the steering wheel and seat positions finalized, so that I can position it to see all the gauges over the steering wheel.

Started out with a 90* 2 1/2" mandrel bent exhaust piece I had and a piece of sheetmetal of the same thickness. Cut off the bend flush with one of the inside sides.
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Then, cut it down the middle.
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Next, clamp the sheetmeatal onto the 4" exhaust and bend it around 90 degrees
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Use a cutoff wheel and cut several slits into the inside radius and work the metal so it flattens out
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Starting at the bent ends, tack the sheetmetal between mandrel bent pieces, working really slowly to keep heat to almost nothing. Rarely over what hurts to touch
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Last edited by Resbum on Tue Apr 09, 2013 8:28 am, edited 5 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

Eventually you get to this point.
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And end up with this. I'll finish it while working on the dashboard.
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Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 10:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

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Edit-Note- This portion was originally posted MUCH earlier in the build

I spent some time mocking up the gauge housing on top of the dash.
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I got the cluster housing cut down to roughly the shape it's going to be and positioned it so I was sure I could see the center gauge. It's taped to the dash and will actually sit about 3/8" higher when mounted in the face plate. I'll do the finish work with the rest of the body work.
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Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

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April 6th, 2013. This is the whole build up to this point. The painted front end sheetmetal back around post 287, on page 15, is what I most recently finished. These last 23 posts have been things I've started, but haven't finished, yet.

From this point on everything will be posted in real-time.

Resbum
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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jaber
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by jaber »

Congrats on getting it moved over. Image
Jeff

'46 cj3a
'51 Willys p/u
'51 Willys Parkway Conversion
'74 CJ5
'75 J-20 Wrecker
'75 J-20 Cummins service truck
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ross80truck
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by ross80truck »

Glad you got it done. Now back to work! I can't wait to see it finished! :-bd
Priorities
1. God
2. Wife ( Sarah )
3. Children ( Lane & Dirk )
4. Work
5. Jeep

Man it is hard to keep them in the right order!

85 Wagoneer, 6bt, NV4500, Black Box, NP205, D60 front, Corp 14 rear http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1446
76 Cherokee Chief - Cheap Build - SOLD http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2605
81 Jeep Scrambler http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 301#p97301
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

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This is where I picked back up after moving the build thread.

I got the e-brake linkage and exhaust heat shield on the bottom of the cab, and then had no reason not to put it back on the chassis.
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Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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TrenchFoot
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by TrenchFoot »

I'm looking forward to seeing how you pull off the cold air intake. I've been planning on something similar for a couple years and am surprised that it isn't more common on FSJs with a 'snout' grille. It's always seemed like a no-brainer until I imagine the carnage from snorting up water during a crossing.
'78 Waggy: 401/QT pulling the rust down the road. 6.2L +turbo waiting in the wings.
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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TrenchFoot wrote:I'm looking forward to seeing how you pull off the cold air intake. I've been planning on something similar for a couple years and am surprised that it isn't more common on FSJs with a 'snout' grille. It's always seemed like a no-brainer until I imagine the carnage from snorting up water during a crossing.
It's sound like you and I have thought a lot alike on this. That really nice potential engine air intake was one of the first things I ever noticed and considered when I bought my FSJ. On the other hand, carnage is "best case scenario" when mixing water and engines. I've seen one engine that tried to become a water pump. It takes a lot to break a cast iron engine block into four pieces. :lol:

I finally decided to give it a try after taking some measurements and weighing what my intended uses for the truck are going to be. The top of the radiator and air intake are 5 feet off the ground. Even pushing a bow wave with the front of the truck I should still be safe in a 3 1/2 foot of water crossing. Right now, I can't think of any time I'd ever put my truck in more water than that, so decided to do it.

If it looks like I'll ever start going deeper than that with the truck I've already thought out a simple system with a float and flapper plates that would close off the outside air and open an air inlet inside the engine compartment. Right now I just want to get the truck finished and decided to hold off on that.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290

BJT
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by BJT »

This truck is just plain awesome. Please excuse me now so I can clean the drool off of my IPad :shock:
-BJ-
89 Waggy
D60f, D70r, 360/727/300 twin sticked, 37's, 4w discs, SOA, RSF, 63" rear springs, blah, blah, blah

2001 F250 4x4 CC SB 7.3L Powerstroke DD
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

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Thanks BJT. I appreciate it.

Here’s some of the things I've gotten done.

After I got the cab in place it was time to start cleaning up all the fabrication lose ends that couldn’t be done until I knew everything’s final replaces. I expected there to be some close fits and was prepared to deal with them.

When I mounted the transfer case shifting sticks bracket it just barely rubbed on the e-brake intermediate cable lever. So I notched it. I then marked the tunnel where the sticks will go through the floor and will make the opening.
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I have the heavy wall cardboard tub that the cam came in. I installed it where the steering shaft needs to go. It will be the reference while I fabricate everything in on the driver’s side. Because it’s a larger diameter than the steering shaft, if parts don’t hit the cardboard tube, they won’t hit the steering shaft. One of the things I already know I need to do is put in a male/female extension at the p-pump to move the fuel line outboard about an inch. It just barely touches the tube, so would probably clear the steering shaft, but why take the chance of it rubbing.
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Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

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This is the real challenge I’ve always known was coming, but haven’t mentioned or tried to think about until I had to tackle it. Some of you probably knew it was going to happen also, but chose not to mention it.

Basically, what it comes down to is that the engine intake plumbing and p-pump sit right in the middle of where the hydroboost and brake master cylinder need to go.

The brake pedal and steering column are all held together with common parts and fasteners underneath the dashboard. Those parts also help tie the dashboard into the firewall. My goal is to make everything fit and still leave everything in their stock locations inside the cab, while moving the hydroboost and master cylinder outboard.

You can see the brake pushrod hole in the firewall is directly behind the intake. The right side of the blue tape on the firewall represents the side of the battery, if I have it snugged right up against the hood hinge with minimum clearance. The left side of the tape is one inch of clearance from the battery.
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This is how much room there is front to back
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Here's all the pieces that need to fit to have a working brake system.
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I think I got really lucky in coming up with a simple and elegant fix. As mentioned before, I've had three cabs during the build of this truck. As I've worked I collected spare parts off of them. I'll use the pedal assembly on the right for my brake pedal. The plan is to press the push rod connecting shaft out of the pedal on the left and move it over to the left side of the pedal on the right. That will move the push rod attaching point approximately 4" outboard. Then I'll make the appropriate holes in the firewall to mount the hydroboost. That should place it perfectly between the engine and the battery.
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Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Mudbull
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Mudbull »

Looks clean under there! I was wishing i had recessed the engine into the firewall like you did, but i dont know whats the lesser of the two evils: brake fitment issues or raditaor/intercooler/fan fitment issues...I see you dont have a shutoff solenoid, are you going to be able to run one? Running my bigass brake booster i wont be able to fit one, plan on using a pull cable.
68' Gladiator
p-pumped Cummins
6spd, D60 Front, D80 Rear
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