1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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I know it's nothing big, but here's the first bodywork I've ever done that wasn't related to some mechanical project. 35 years turning wrenches, zero bodywork experience.

When I moved the intercooler inlet/outlet up 3" it allowed me to put sheetmetal back in along the bottom of the core support. It wasn't really necessary, but it gave me some practice in an area nobody will ever see.
Image
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 5:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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Originally posted by Iceman0502 01-11-2013 05:39 AM
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I might be jumping ahead and asking, but have to ask. With the stock Dodge intercooler, how does the Jeep fenders line up? I think the intercooler is somewhere around 46 inches and the inlets far right into the bolts for the lower portion of the fender.

Is it alright to cut out that part of the fender or does some support have to be put back into it?
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 5:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

You're not really jumping ahead, thinking way ahead can save a lot of grief. You're also pretty quick on the uptake, if you're talking about the inner fender panels. I wasn't planning on using any of the original inner fender mounting holes in the front core support.

The reason is because I need to modify the inner fender panels to get the intercooler plumbing on the inside (engine compartment side) of them. I also need to make room on the front core support to accommodate the remote oil filter, windshield washer fluid tank and radiator overflow tank. The batteries are getting moved back onto the fire wall, just inboard of the hood hinges.
Quote:
________________________________________
Originally Posted by Iceman0502
Is it alright to cut out that part of the fender or does some support have to be put back into it?

________________________________________
If you don't cut out two sections of the bottom of the front core support like I originally did, before moving the intercooler inlet and outlet up and replacing the sheetmetal, then I would say those two missing mounting bolts wouldn't offer all that much. I would guess you would do just fine without them.

I personally wouldn't be happy doing that. I want all the intercooler plumbing protected with the lower inner fender panels from all the crud that can fly off the tires and any possible tire contact from really tight turning situations. Not having the inner fenders go all the way down to the frame rails will also allow all that crud off the tires get into the engine compartment.

Side note- I absolutely don't mind people asking 'jumping ahead' questions. It forces me to go back and rethink things, or, more importantly, may bring up a potential future roadblock I hadn't caught yet.

Resbum
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

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Originally posted by Iceman0502 01-11-2013 11:27 AM
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I just went back to read your postings back when you changed the inlets of the intercooler and you mentioned that the intercooler should have been mounted upside down and you would not have reloacted the inlets.

This may be a better option and the outcome would look like ZMJeeps. I wouldn't have to worry about the fenders at all and would have to find a place to keep my batteries. I may mold them into my fenders a little. The truck has a 2 inch body lift on it and will have 31 maybe 32 inch tires. That will buy me at least 2 inches below the current fender well. I never though of placing a battery next to the hood hinge on the drivers side since the original ignition box will be removed. I am aiming to keep the factory A/C system so I can't use the space of the heater blower. The turbo will have to mounted a little lower to clear the heater box. I'm not going to get as fancy as your downpipe from the exhuast manifold to turbo. I was thinking about using one large pipe instead of two smaller to make it easier on me. I'm not that worried about a little turbo lag.
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 5:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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It sounds like you have things pretty well thought out for your application. The individuality of each of our projects makes doing it all the more fun.

Since you're not worried about a little possible lag one single manifold extension would work well, and definitely be simpler. George, at Turbo Technologies, told me that diesels aren't as prone to lag as gas engines because of the lower rpm's and velocities. I learned that after I'd already become way committed to the one I was already building, so I stayed with it. Originally I was going to use a single pipe and make it 'S' shaped to get the turbo forward.

As for the intercooler, I think I said it could have been mounted upside down, not should have. Even after I realized that I wouldn't have done it for my application because I knew I was going to need the upper core support space for the things I wanted to mount there. I hope you don't mind me making a suggestion on your project. Even if you don't relocate the stock inlet and outlet openings you might consider replacing them with round pipes. That round to oval shape they make is really restrictive to flow.

Do you have a build thread. I'd be interested in seeing how you've executed some of your stuff. It's always good to get fresh ideas.

Resbum
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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Woo Hoo! Merry Christmas to me! The metal fabrication and prep are done on the core support and front valence. This morning, in about an hour, I'm heading to a paint booth to shoot epoxy primer on them. I'll post pics later.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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First of the bodywork is primered.

The core support was treated with rust converter and the valence was media blasted.
Image

Image
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:01 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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There are some blemishes. Unfortunately, I couldn't shoot the primer myself. This is a paint booth at the local military base hobby/body shop. We can do all the work we want, except shoot paint/primer. The shop employee has to do that part. It has to do with OSHA/environmental laws, or something. Anyways, his coverage wasn't very uniform.

I've been kinda forced to go this route because my shop is just to cold to paint. I won't mind it for all the invisible areas, but I sure as hell won't except that quality of work on the areas people will see. I don't know what his problem was, but I've seen the other vehicles in the shop he's done and those were top-notch.

I'll find a solution that will work out in the long run. I know of a local place where you can rent paint booths by the hour, if I have to.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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The more I've looked at the core support and front valence the more disgusted I've become with the job that schmuck did shooting the primer. I'm literally going to have to sand both pieces and reshoot them.

I found a local place that rents out a heated paint booth with the ability to 'bake' the paint. My plan is to primer everything, then paint the hidden parts myself at the shop. Once the truck is all assembled I'll tow it over to the paint booth rental and paint the outside of the truck all at the same time. I'm learning as I go along, but from what I understand you preferably want to paint everything at the same time, together, for uniformity.

I have a tarp cover frame I made for camping. When it's full-size it's 12' X 16'. By mixing and matching sections I assembled a frame thats 8' X 13'. Right now I'm only using half of that so I now have a paint booth thats 6.5' X 8'. More than big enough to primer and paint everything except the cab and bed. The booth uses vlecro down each corner so I can roll up the wall individually when I'm not using the booth.

I made an adapter that slides over the blower outlet of the pellet stove. It takes about 15 seconds to hook up. That blows hot, dehumidified, filtered air into the booth. On the opposite side of the booth, at the floor, I'll open the shop door a few inches and exhaust the booth to the outside. For light I made 8" X 8" windows in each corner with Saran Wrap and mounted "Tru-color" lights. There will also be a 500 watt halogan light directly overhead.

I hadn't made the light windows yet in this pic.
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Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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In my mind’s eye I’ve always known what color I wanted to paint it. I just never knew it was “Cummins Beige” until I stumbled across this picture in tndonor’s “Jungle Rot” thread
Quote:
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Originally Posted by tndonor

Image
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The color changes a fair amount depending on the lighting. Here are some other pictures of it.
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Image

Image

This is a sample from a can I bought through Cummins. It tends to look a little lighter than what this pic shows. The camera in my phone did not do a good job of capturing the real color. Next to the painted surface is a piece of wood veneer I’m thinking of using as a backdrop for the gauges.
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Here’s some info I tracked down if anyone is interested in using Cummins Beige, Black, or Red

Paint, Cummins beige, aerosol, 12 oz (340 g) can Cummins part number 3824515 normally available at any Cummins parts outlet or most authorized Cummins repair shops.

Titanium Black, Cummins number 3824514[/font]


Cummins brand APEX RED part #3163075. It is a "certified Cummins color" so it says on the can.

Here’s some other info I found for aftermarket paint. I believe these are the mix codes. Not sure.
Name # Cummins Beige
Product # DE 1638
HTML # C3AD7E
CMYK # 25, 29, 57, 1
RGB # 195, 173, 126

I did find one other color called "Cummins Beige" with a different number, but it was noticably darker.
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:08 pm, edited 4 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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I decided to end 2012 getting one of the last pain-in-the-@$$ tasks out of the way, so I didn't have to do it in 2013.

It took about 6 hours and some really sore hands, but today I used a heat gun and a scraper and removed the rest of the rubberized undercoating from the bottom of the cab.

Most of the right side has been hit with a wire wheel to remove the little bit left over from the heat gun. This system worked really well. Now finish sanding to bare metal.
Image
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

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Originally posted by twisted frame 01-01-2013 07:10 PM
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Wow, that looks good. I mean really good! I had a job once with a museum where I scraped plenty of that stuff off some parts of an experimental pre-fab kind of housing unit from the 40s. Tedious only begins to describe the experience.
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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Most of the sheetmetal is a new floor. I only had the do the supports, sides, and about a foot of the floor(bottom of picture). But it still came out better than I'd hoped. Before starting I googled, "Stripping rubberized undercoating". The majority of people who had done it said a heatgun and scraper worked well, and then hit it with a wire wheel.

You are right. It was very tedious, but easier than expected.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

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Originally posted by twisted frame 01-23-2013 06:02 PM
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How's the body work coming?
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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Yeah, I've made progress, and then hit a SNAFU I've been trying to debug. I was going to hold off an update until I got it figured out.

After I had the bottom of the cab ready I tackled the inside of the cab roof. It was solid scaly rust. Probably from decades of the original headliner trapping moisture. It cleaned up well and got a coat of grey epoxy primer. This is a before pic. I don't have an after. Everything went great.
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Note- The reason for both grey and black primer is because the store only had a gallon of grey the day I picked them up... and it was a 60 mile round trip. The areas that won't be easily seen will get the black primer and the outside skin will get the grey primer.

I then epoxy primered the bottom of the cab. Everything went great.
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I then moved on to the firewall and got this. Fisheyes in the primer. Not once, not twice, but now three times. Each time I've worked closely with the people giving me bodywork advice and a process of elimination to figure out where the contaminant is coming from.
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So, out has come the 60 and 120 grit paper and a lot of primer removal.
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We think we've got it figured out. For now I'm going to move on to the top side of the cab roof and see what happens. If that turns out good then I'll try the firewall again.

We'll see. Resbum
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:13 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

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Originally posted by twisted frame 01-23-2013 08:23 PM
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That must be really frustrating. It seems like it was only happening with the grey primer, not the black? What color is the truck going to be?
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

Yeah, it's been frustrating. I did the inside of the cab roof with the grey primer. No problem.

With the cab sitting on its back wall the firewall is the only part that is horizontal and I point the spray gun down. That's why I'm going to try primering the outside of the roof next. It's vertical and if that goes well but I still have problems with the firewall it might be the gun, as unlikely as that seems.

The truck is going to be Cummins Beige. I used the same OEM Cummins rattlecan(s) that I painted the engine with to make a paint chip that they used to mix/match the paint
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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Quote:
________________________________________
Originally Posted by Tnfalconer
What are you planning to use, if anything, for sound deadning or insulation in the cab? I have seen some nifty spray on stuff that has heat and sound deadning abilities. Just wondering if you had looked into that
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I have over 110sq.ft. each of the aluminum backed rubber stick on material and 1/4" neoprene for sound deadening and insulation. I'm also painting the whole truck with Raptor Bedliner. Plus, I have a qrt. of rubberized undercoating for the wheelwells and other sound traps.

Quote:
________________________________________
Originally Posted by Clean RC
I love the build.. A TON of detail going into this one.. I have one question about that huge 205 hanging off the back of the aluminum housing of a 727 type trans. Are you planning on some kind of support for that monster T-Case?? I am only asking because it sounds like the truck may see some off roading in its new life. Keep up the great work
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Thank you. This NP205 came off a 1991 Cummins Dodge running the same transmission. Around 90/91 Dodge was changing all their parts numbers, so the numbers and a few internals were different (91/94), but the outside of the two tranny’s are identical for all practical purposes. It took a little mixing and matching of 91 & 94 to get the correct seals, but everything else was a direct bolt up using factory Dodge manual procedures and torques.

It's common knowledge that the Cummins can eat up a stock 47RH so I spent the $$$ to beef it up internally. To be honest, I've never heard of one breaking where the tranny and t-case join together so I never gave a thought to supporting the t-case.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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Here you go. I bought both the aluminum backed rubber and neoprene on ebay. I found the seller for the stick-on rubber, but the seller of the neoprene has dropped off the face of the Earth.

Link to ebay store:
http://stores.ebay.com/sounddeadenerdiscounts

As for using it in the engine bay, I probably won't. I may put some in the firewall notch and trans tunnel, but haven't decided. As for heat, I welded 1/2" high tabs down the firewall and along the bottom of the cab where the downpipe and exhaust pipe will be. After everything is painted I'm going to mount a 9" wide stainless steel heat shield.
To lessen heat in the engine bay I also ceramic coated the exhaust manifold, hot side of turbo housing, and downpipe. The stainless extension between manifold and turbo got thermal wrap.
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Post by Resbum »

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Originally posted by Tnfalconer 01-25-2013 10:44 AM________________________________________
I have been looking at lizard skin ceramic insulation. They say it is good to 450 degrees and applied with a roller. I plan to use the peel and stick stuff on the inside of the firewall, back of the cab,headliner area and inside the doors. I have used the raptor bedliner before and it is good stuff. I will most likely use it for the bed of my truck.

Originally posted by Mudbull 01-25-2013 11:45 AM________________________________________
Looks like some good progress over there!

As a quick interjection i have heard that the lizard skin does what it says, but has an almost "chalky" feel to it if unpainted; ive heard it’s a brittle/absorbent material. With that said i do not have any experience with the product, just second hand knowledge that steered me away from putting the product on my car.
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 290#p18290
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