1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

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Resbum
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1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:25 pm

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Note: In transferring my build thread over to FSJ Network I went through and edited it. Basically, I removed a bunch of non-information posts and moved some information posts around so that posts about the same topic were together. I tried like heck not to change content, just improve readability. That’s reflected in the first 287 posts here.

When I started editing it this thread was 502 posts long. When all was done I posted 310 posts to start the thread at FSJNetwork. A lot of the removed non-information posts were the comments and compliments people had made. Thank you all very much!!! Just because I removed them doesn’t mean I didn’t appreciate each and every one. There have been more than a few times they helped keep me motivated.

Resbum
Last edited by Resbum on Sun Apr 07, 2013 5:36 am, edited 15 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:42 pm

1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

9 Feb 2012

Excuse the long-winded intro. A LOT of people and businesses made this project possible, literally. I feel it very important to publicly give them some recognition before anything else. Without all the help it never would have happened.

I need to give some well deserved credit to BJ’s Offroad. http://www.bjsoffroad.com I got lucky enough that I can easily drive to BJ’s from where I live and bug Brent on a moment’s notice. Seriously, without all the help, knowledge, willingness to price match, and willingness to get non-FSJ parts from Brent this project NEVER would have made it this far. If anyone is doing any kind of project they should seriously consider contacting BJ’s.

Some other notable mentions:
Clover Park Technical Collegerebuilt both differentials, transmission and transfer case. A lot of the time schools won’t install aftermarket parts. Wayne, the instructor in the Drivetrain Program, jumped right onboard when he heard where I wanted to go with the project. Kurt and Greg, in the Auto Body Program. They painted the frame and did the sheet metal work on the cab. Note- This is an academic institution and the students needs come first and foremost. If you approach them don’t be surprised if they turn down your work. I got VERY LUCKY.

A skilled professional welder for all the welding of critical components (things that can kill you) and other work.

Justin and Dennis at Metal Supermarket on 100th, in Lakewood.

Ron at Hi-Strength Bolt on 100th, in Lakewood.


Also, some others that have treated me right:

4 Wheel Parts, Tacoma and Portland

Discount/America’s Tire, Tacoma and Portland

RE Electric, Tacoma, WA

Tacoma Speedometer, Tacoma, WA


All the craigslister’s that bought, sold, and swapped with me.


A Special Note:
Ballistic Fabrication- After placing my first order in November, 2011, I learned that Ballistic had developed a bad reputation. After learning this I basically thought if I get screwed I just won’t use them again. Let me tell you that they’ve been making huge efforts to correct the problems they were having. I’ve now ordered from them 5 times. Every order has been correct and shipped immediately. The one snafu I did have(minor) I sent an email on a Sunday about getting it corrected. Dave replied within 1 hour from his iphone saying i t would be fixed. The little replacement part was in the mail before 10AM the next morning. I’ve spoke with several of them on the phone. They openly admit that they did have troubles and are doing everything they can to “earn customers trust back” (their words, notice earn). I’m a pretty good read of people and I believe each one of them are sincere in this desire. Just my take on them so far.


Edited on 13 July 2012 to give some thanks and free advertising to more people and businesses.

I’m now well into rebuilding and finishing the engine. The following businesses have really leaned forward to help me out. All of them are top-notch companies. Most of them I have used in the past and the ones I’m trying for the first time have outstanding reputations. In dealing with all of them their reputations are well earned.

In no particular order:

Once again, BJ’s Offroad.

The machine shop at Napa on Pacific and 96th,in Tacoma, WA.

Remflex Gaskets- I’ve used them in the past and love them. This time I needed an exhaust manifold gasket in a hurry and they went above and beyond to get it to me.

Performance Coatings, in Auburn, WA.- I’ve used them in the past. They do an outstanding job and every time I’ve used them it’s been a pleasure.

Turbo Technologies- They helped hook me up with some of the misc exhaust pieces I needed, as well as knowledge, advice, and expert opinions.. Edit addition- Since first writing this TT stepped up and did A LOT of the welding on my exhaust. THANK YOU.

BD Diesel Performance- I can’t say enough about the positive experience I’ve had dealing with them. I made a road trip up to their facility in BC, Canada, to drop off my cores and pick up my new parts. They took me on a tour and went out of their way to help me get the most bang for my buck.

Colt Cams, in BC Canada- This is my first time dealing with them. They come highly recommended by BD Diesel Performance and I stopped by their shop to drop off my cam went I road tripped to BD Performance. Geoff is extremely friendly and knowledgeable and helped me spend my money wisely.

Bud's Machine Shop, in Lakewood, WA. They've been around for decades, have an outstanding reputation, and have done some really top-notch engines.

Larry B's- http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/ Larry B's makes some really nice products and the website does a really good job of explaining why they fail, or appear to have failed when they haven't. I got lucky and live near enough I drove to his shop to pick up my parts. Larry is extremely nice and VERY knowledgeable. Plus, I'm impressed with his products. When all was said and done, I left his shop with a solenoid, relay harness, fusable link, "Solenoid-Saver" diode, and heavy duty starter contacts. I highly recommend checking his stuff out.


If I’ve missed anyone I feel bad and will edit them in if I think of them. Every business and person I’ve dealt with has been a pleasure
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 5:41 am, edited 3 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 1:49 pm

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Quote:
________________________________________
Originally Posted by Hook574
What is the primary use of your truck going to be, towing, trail, little of both?

________________________________________

Thanks. I guess I've never said what my goals were when I set out to build the truck.

Short answer. I just retired. I want to build a tough, simple truck that will last longer than I do. I don't expect it to do any one thing great, but I do want it to handle most anything I ask of it relatively well.

Long answer.
-The truck is a 1970, no emissions or inspections to worry about.
-The '94 Cummins has no computers or sensors
-The '94 47RH has no computers or sensors. The OD and lockup are both push button.
-This means if the truck breaks I pull out simple tools and fix it. No mechanic bills, and by building it myself I know it inside and out.
-I have one small piece of property in the central Oregon high desert and I plan on buying another small piece with trees somewhere else in eastern Oregon. Both pieces will be off-the-grid.
-I need a truck that can haul building materials, fuel, water, firewood, etc., and be my general work around the property truck.
-I also need a truck that can handle the back roads, trails, recreational 4-wheelin', hunting trips, and possibly rarely pushing a snow plow.
-I also have a boat trailer rated at 5,000lbs that I'll be converting into a 6' X 14' flatbed for hauling bigger things.
-I currently live in my 40' Toyhauler 5th wheel. I plan on moving it to the properties and living in it while I build my cabins. I don't have any plans of doing major amounts of traveling with it. Eventually it will be permanently parked at one of the properties as a guest house for family and friends who come visiting. However, the truck still needs to be able to safely move it.

Quote:
________________________________________
Originally Posted by Hook574
… I'm asking because I like the way you have done your suspension and I'm wondering how narrowing the spring mount width will effect stability while towing or cornering
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The springs on all four corners came off the same 1991 Dodge W350, with Cummins, as the front Dana 60HD and NP205. It was a 1 ton car hauler with one of those tilting beds on it. Because they’re 1 ton springs I expect they have a relatively stiff spring rate. That should offset sway because of narrowing the spring mounts some. Time will tell.

I’m going to be adding air bags mounted with quick disconnects for when I have to haul the 5th wheel or some other really heavy load. The airbags and the ability to air down/up the tires is the biggest reason why I’m converting the engines AC compressor to onboard compressed air, instead of adding AC to the truck.

Finally, because the truck was made as a Camper Special it came with a front sway bar from Jeep. When installing the Dana 60 up front I looked for ways of being able to put it back on with quick discounts. I haven’t looked or given it much thought since deciding to lower the steering box 1 ½”. However, I have been thinking of front and rear sway bars for extremely heavy loads.

Resbum
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 5:22 am, edited 3 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

User avatar
Resbum
Posts: 461
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 1:51 pm

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Originally posted by Mike27 02-17-2012 04:36 PM
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... I love the fact that you've deliberately avoided electronics. I've lived almost half my life in rural central and eastern Oregon and it can be a very, very long way from real civilization if something breaks.
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Last edited by Resbum on Thu Dec 29, 2016 2:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

User avatar
Resbum
Posts: 461
Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:45 am
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 1:52 pm

June 2010. The day I bought the truck from a guy on craigslist, one year before I started the build. That year was spent researching, deciding, and buying parts.
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Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 10:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

User avatar
Resbum
Posts: 461
Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:45 am
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 1:52 pm

June 24th, 2011. The build begins after a year of research and gathering parts. It's starting out as a 1970 3/4 ton Camper Special, Custom Cab, 3407Z, Jeep Gladiator Pickup.
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Four days later it looked like this
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Temporarily place engine and drivetrain. 1994 12V Cummins 6BT. 1994 47RH transmission. 1991 NP205 transfer case.
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Now I need to make all of this fit. I had to open the body mounts and radiator pillars 4 inches, cut 2 rows off the top of the after cooler, and trim a bunch of sheet metal.
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..., the intercooler came with the engine. When it was time to make it fit it was either major mods to body work or cut two rows off the top. I went the easy route.
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Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 10:29 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 1:53 pm

Large Radiator Body Modifications

The very first thing I did was establish centerline between the frame and front valance. See the little red dots in the pic. I used my plumb bob and marked the frame and sheetmetal with punch marks so there was no risk of losing them. Since I'd removed the front fenders there was absolutely nothing to help keep that reference without the marks. Notice the green arrows on the right side. That represents the imaginary vertical line I used when cutting off sheetmetal to make the intercooler fit.
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See the red dots and green arrows.
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The red line shows where I cut the pillar off the front sheetmetal. You can also see the intercooler pipe sticking through the sheetmetal. By the time you move the pillars outboard a couple inches they start getting pretty close to it. I also rounded off the base of the pillar(red line) to make sure there was plenty of clearance.

Picture disappeared I need to reload it. Drop me a note if I forget to.

This is how much you need to open up the pillars
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This pic really shows just how much sheetmetal needs to be removed to get the intercooler to fit. I still need to fabricate the sheetmetal that'll support the base of the intercooler
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Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

User avatar
Resbum
Posts: 461
Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:45 am
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 1:53 pm

I used a piece of 3X4 rectangle stock to make the new mounts. I cut it approximately 3" long, then cut it on the diagonal along the long side. See yellow line. The cutoff piece then became the mount on the other side. I used my welding magnets to position the new mounts along the top of the old mounts, then tacked them in place. Using my 4' level/straight edge I then scribed a line through the old holes centerline on to the new mounts. Red line. Notice the scribe mark is actually back from the red line. That's to account for the sheetmetal that was left on the pillar when I cut it off. The green arrow is my new mounting hole location.
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I leveled everything and used blocks under the radiator to make sure there was clearance for body/frame flex.
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I clamped angle iron (red lines) to the new mounts to position/support the front sheetmetal properly
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Then mounted everything together
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I think I hit all the major points to consider.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

User avatar
Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 1:54 pm

Quote:
________________________________________
Originally Posted by Hook574
Are the new core support mounts going to get into the inner fenders?
______________________________________
__

They're not going to get into the inner fenders, because they're inboard of the intercooler plumbing. Those definitely get into the inner fender areas. :rolleyes: I'm going to tackle those mods when it comes up. While building everything I did do some test fits and checks and don't expect it to be a problem. I'm also pretty sure they're not going to interfer with wheel clearance during tight turns. Time will tell.

Resbum
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 9:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

User avatar
Resbum
Posts: 461
Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:45 am
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 1:55 pm

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Originally posted by Hook574 02-16-2012 06:11 AM
________________________________________
I know you said you cut the intercooler down 2 rows, did you do that yourself? Does a radiator shop do that, and could it also be cut down in width?

I know yours needed to be that width to clear your radiator I was just wondering if a narrower rad could be used.
Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 9:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Resbum
Posts: 461
Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:45 am
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 1:55 pm

I cut it down myself.

The very first thing I did was confirm that my welder could weld cast aluminum back together.:thumbsup: I also confirmed with him where I should make the cuts so he had the material he needed to weld it back together.

I used a cutoff disc on my grinder to cut through the middle of second row from one header tank to the other. Then I smoothed down the cut fins that were inside the second row with a block of wood so the top trim piece could be tacked back on to the bottom half of the old second row. Then I used a straight edge and tape to layout nice even cuts around the tops of the header tanks, before cutting them off.

Cutting down width IS A TOTALLY DIFFERENT ANIMAL. You're cutting across all those rows. I personally wouldn't consider that. I can't see any way it could be cheaper than just buying one made to the desired width.

Resbum
Last edited by Resbum on Tue Apr 09, 2013 5:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 1:55 pm

Edit-Note- In the original build thread these intercooler mod’s were done much later. I’ve moved them here for relevance.

I had a huge, "Ah ha" moment while working on the intercooler the other day.

It never even remotely crossed my mind while fabricating that if I'd turned the intercooler up-side-down all the plumbing would have been more direct, that much shorter, and farther away from the tires.

The plus side to not doing it is that the intercooler hoses now won't compete with where I mount the remote oil filter, radiator overflow tank and the windshield washer tank. Plus, they won't interfere with working on anything underneath them.

So, I guess it's a, "six one way, half a dozen the other way" situation.
Last edited by Resbum on Tue Apr 09, 2013 5:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 1:56 pm

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Edit-Note- In the original build thread these intercooler mods were done much later. I’ve moved them here for relevance.

The other day, when I thought about how I could have flipped the intercooler over, it made me take a serious look at clearances. I realized that I could move the inlet and outlet up a few inches, which would allow me to clear the bottom of the pillars and run full diameter 3 1/2" pipes. So, after some cutting, relocating, welding, and painting I ended up with this.

Many thanks to Turbo Technologies for more welding.
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I also didn't like how restrictive the stock inlet and outlet were.
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By moving the inlet and outlet up I was able to reinstall sheetmetal along the bottom of the core support. That’s done later in the build.
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I'll eventually fill the bottom of the sheetmetal back in, which will put some of the original strength back.
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Last edited by Resbum on Tue Apr 09, 2013 5:50 am, edited 7 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 1:59 pm

Edit-Note- in the original build thread this was done much later. I’ve moved it here for relevance.

Before and after relocating the intercooler pipes. By moving them up 3" and making them 2" shorter it gave 4 more inches of clearance from the tires. Before I'm pretty sure there wouldn't have been any contact, now I know there won't be any contact.
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Edit-Note- This was originally posted MUCH later in the build, before I moved the inlet and outlet. Its purpose is to show how the intercooler is mounted.

I moved the upper mounts from the front side to the back side and used the stock Dodge mounting rubbers top and bottom on the intercooler. The bottom rubbers sit in 1" diameter holes in the stainless sheetmetal and the front of the sheetmetal will bolt to the front valiance. There's enough room between the intercooler and radiator to mount the oil and trans coolers between them.
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Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Resbum
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:01 pm

The pieces of the front end finally all fitting together
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Last edited by Resbum on Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Resbum
Posts: 461
Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:45 am
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:03 pm

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Engine Placement

Next, cut off the fan and place engine 1 1/2 inches behind radiator fans, center and level, then lock it down.
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Last edited by Resbum on Tue Jul 02, 2013 7:02 am, edited 2 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

User avatar
Resbum
Posts: 461
Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:45 am
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:03 pm

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Fabricate trans cross-member and engine mounts,

Replace OEM hardware with bigger grade 8 hardware.
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The nut and washers in the middle were the original OEM size
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Last edited by Resbum on Tue Apr 09, 2013 6:00 am, edited 3 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

User avatar
Resbum
Posts: 461
Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:45 am
Location: East OR./West WA.

Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:08 pm

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Front Axle and Spring Under Frame Placement

Now, cut away the old and replace with a 1991 Front Dana 60HD out of a Dodge W350, converting it to under frame spring mounts.
The springs are from the same Dodge and got re-ached and new bushings. The rear axle is the original full-float Dana 60 and it got the same under frame spring mount conversion.
The under frame conversion added 5 ¾ inches of lift. Both axles are now running Detroit TrueTrac’s, G2 4.11 gears, and Dutchman 1.5 inches 35 spline chromoly axles.
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These shackle mounts eventually got replaced with Ballistic Fabrication mounts that have bushings in them.
I adjusted the jack stands to the new ride height. Yeah Baby!, 22 inches of ground clearance at the trans crossmember.
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Last edited by Resbum on Sat Nov 30, 2013 4:40 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

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Resbum
Posts: 461
Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:45 am
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:08 pm

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The jig I made to set the front caster and tilt of the rear differential.

I'm proud of this creation. I could accurately measure changes of .1 degrees with it.
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Level the chassis then go from there
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Here it's aligned front to rear. With all the weight of the engine/trans/TC compressing the spring I kept adding and taking away blocks between the spring and the frame until I got caster where I wanted it. Then I measured from the frame to the spring eye. That's the measurement I used to make the shackles and mounts.
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The lines are 1 degree, the dimples are .2 degrees. Here the caster is set to 3.4 degrees
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Last edited by Resbum on Tue Apr 09, 2013 6:05 am, edited 2 times in total.
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290

User avatar
Resbum
Posts: 461
Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:45 am
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Re: 1970 Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

Postby Resbum » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:08 pm

Now everything gets stripped off, the frame gets scrubbed and pressure washed, and it’s off to media blasting, welding, and paint.
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The frame got two rounds of welding. First all the trans, motor, and suspension mounts. Then I took the frame home painted behind the areas that I then boxed in with tack welds. While welding the first round the welder noticed the frame was cracked around the old steering box mount. So I decided to lower the steering box 1 ½ inches while fixing the frame. Then it went back for round two of welding.
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Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1651&p=18290#p18290


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