OM606?

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Red-dog
Posts: 67
Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2016 12:06 pm
Location: Charleston, SC

OM606?

Postby Red-dog » Thu Apr 26, 2018 6:12 pm

So, I have seen a bunch of people talk about OM606 conversions but I don’t see any build threads. Has anyone completed one? How did it turn out? I am considering a Mercedes diesel swap but I want to hear some happy people first.
'86 GW, work in progress.
'01 wj, DD

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tedlovesjeeps71
Posts: 2466
Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2016 4:39 pm

Re: OM606?

Postby tedlovesjeeps71 » Thu Apr 26, 2018 7:31 pm

Talk to this guy... He's a wealth of info.

1964 wagoneer... om617 diesel
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_ ... are_type=t


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Adventure_Wagon88
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Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2016 2:00 pm
Location: Leesport, PA
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Re: OM606?

Postby Adventure_Wagon88 » Wed May 02, 2018 6:47 am

Have not heard of the 606 being completed in a Wagoneer, but if you're on Facebook, join the Diesel Jeeps group, it's not a ton of members but the Mercedes diesels are the main swap people there have done it seems. A few have done others, but there are some very friendly and knowledgable folks there.

Billybob535
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Dec 25, 2017 5:44 am

Re: OM606?

Postby Billybob535 » Thu May 03, 2018 9:24 am

I am one of the people who has been talking about it recently. I was looking at doing an OM617 YJ but changed my mind on both the platform and the motor choice. I was inspired by the post referenced above where the guy put the OM617 in and older waggy. I like the bigger vehicle but the OM617 is underpowered even in a YJ. I decided on building a FSJ around the OM606.

I have not found anyone who has swapped the OM606 into a FSJ before but I bet someone outside the US has as it is a common swap elsewhere. In Europe it is as common as the Chevy 350 or GM LS swap is here in the US.

I spent a lot of time (more than a year) planning the swap and I looked at all the common diesel options. The 6bt is a great motor but I don't need that much torque and I don't want a 1200# motor which would also require a heavy/expensive 1 ton front axle and a heavy rear axle to handle the torque. The 6bt is too long, too tall, and just too much for what I need. The 4bt is a great candidate but they are more than the cost of an OM606 even after adapters and in my area they are even harder to find. The 4bt vibrates like crazy and are a few hundred pounds heavier but would be a lot easier to fit than a 6bt. The 4bt would be my choice if I had not found the OM606. The GM 6.2/6.5 is heavy and low on power and just isn't want I wanted. I did not consider any non mechanical diesels (personal preference) or any of the other foreign/tractor/obscure diesels as most require too much fab work. I want simple reliability and to be able to buy replacement parts (starter, motor mounts, alternator, water pump, etc) at a local parts place. Excluding the bellhousing to block adapter and bellhousing to transmission adapter (both of which space the NV4500 back nicely in the FSJ and are solid metal plates won't wear out) the only custom parts will be the flywheel (which can be re-surfaced when worn) and the flat plates that mount the dodge motor mounts to the block (which won't wear out). The OM606 weighs about 535# with accessories and is similar in dimensions to the 258. It is a bit taller but some 44044s and a rear sump pan should take take care of axle interference and a 1" body lift will clear it (and the NV4500) on the top side if needed.

I talked to someone on the west coast that has swapped the OM606 into full size vehicles (similar frame rail dimensions to the FSJ) with good results. He uses 2nd gen Dodge 24v cummins motor mounts bolted to 1/4" thick flat plates that are then bolted to the mercedes block. 1/4" thick ears are welded to the vehicle frame so the motor mount bolt passes through them (double shear like a 2nd gen dodge truck). If it can support a 6bt it should be ok for the little 535# OM606. I will be going all mechanical with a 95 W124 OM606 NA pump with aftermarket external ALDA and 7.5mm elements so I could not offer any electrical advise. I will start with the stock turbo and the pump turned down (probably 200HP max) and when I am ready I will upgrade the turbo to move into the 250-300HP range. I do not need more than that.

I have a project budget of $10k and that may still be a bit light as a used low mileage 98/99 turbo OM606 motor will eat up about $1500 of it. The OM648 rear sump oil pan, pump, and dipstick kit cost me $550 shipped from England (over $100 was shipping). The mechanical injection pump will run about $1200 shipped once it has been modified by Dieselmeken. I am looking for a whole wrecked car to get the motor from. I will then part out and scrap the rest to recover cost.

I bought a whole running/driving 1998 Dodge 2500 with no title that had the gas V8 NV4500 in it, pulled the trans, then parted out the rest of the truck. I got back all of my purchase price and transportation cost plus made enough money to pay for the T176 bellhousing ($120), AA AMC bellhousing to NV4500 gas V8 trans adapter ($250), Luk HD clutch kit ($120), clutch master/slave/AA line w/ adapters ($120), and upgraded throwout bearing ($30). I got lucky on the truck deal so my actual ready to install transmission cost is 4 days labor on my body and some wear and tear on my current truck towing it 230 miles home. Probably the best deal I will ever do.

I am currently in the process of buying a 4 door 83 cherokee (258/4sp and A/C) with a nice clean frame to build on (hopefully here by the end of the month). I will have to deal with body rust later on but I will get the mechanicals all done first.

I wanted a 4 door 80+ narrow track because:

Easy for my child to get in and out of the back of a 4 door

Drivers side drop NP208 that will bolt to my NV4500 with no adapter and no issues with driveshaft to exhaust interference.

Narrow track compatibility with lots of grand wagoneer axle, suspension, body, and interior parts that are far more plentiful here than the 78 or older ones or Wide Track ones. Wide track fenders seem to be a magnet for rust.

Here in NC an 83 only gets a safety inspection the first time it is licensed. There is no emissions inspection and no inspections of any kind beyond the initial one for a 35+ year old vehicle. No issues with legalities of swapping in the diesel after that initial inspection.

I am still collecting parts for it all and hope to have it put together this fall.

The OM606 to AX-15 adapters from mercedes4x4 were just released this week (I ordered one - $880 shipped).

http://www.mercedesdiesel4x4.com/category_s/1842.htm

I will have to re-drill 2 holes in the adapter plate for the OM648 rear sump pan and I may have to notch the edge of the adapter for slave mounting clearance. Both items should be simple and easy to do.

Pieces to make it all work:

Dodge gas 23 spline NV4500 (I believe 250-300HP from a modified diesel and the weight of a FSJ would be too much for the AX-15).

AA Dodge gas V8 NV4500 to AMC bellhousing adapter

80s CJ T176 bellhousing w/fork

Luk HD AX-15 clutch kit

80's CJ slave

Early YJ master

I will be using a 94/95 Astro van hydroboost with one of Elliott's (from ifsja.org) firewall brackets to clear the clutch master and make it a bolt in process. I will have the lines built locally if necessary. I will swap in the hydroboost setup while the 258 is still in the Jeep. I will get this all figured out and working before I do the motor swap. When the OM606 goes in I will just have to adapt the lines to the pump. The OM606 pump has slightly higher pressure than the GM pump Jeep uses but it should be ok. This will clear the way for the hydraulic clutch master.

I am hoping the FSJ T177/178 bellhousing has the same slave mounting flange as the CJ T176 bellhousing does. This will allow me to swap in the clutch hydraulics with the factory trans and get them all figured out before I do the OM606/NV4500 part of the swap. Come swap time it will be as simple as unbolting the slave from one bellhousing and bolting it to the new one.

I can do these 2 system upgrades over the summer while I source a good motor and get the IP built. When it cools off I can do the motor and transmission install with less to troubleshoot. I have not figured out what I will use for a radiator or how I will mount the intercooler (not much way to plan that at this point). I will be using the OM606 mechanical fan.

My goal is to build a comfortable driver that gets 25mpg, has an ultra reliable low maintenance powertrain that is not dependent on electronics (personal preference), and can do light wheeling should the need arise. It will have 31" or 32" tires and a 2" lift with stock axles (I may swap the AMC20 for an 86+ Waggy D44 or a 96/97 Rodeo D44). Not sure on gear ratios yet but its easy to re-gear once its all together.

I will be posting a build thread eventually. This will be a slow build as I am in no hurry.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Red-dog
Posts: 67
Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2016 12:06 pm
Location: Charleston, SC

Re: OM606?

Postby Red-dog » Thu May 03, 2018 10:24 am

Billybob535, thanks a lot for that thorough response. This was really great info as our goals are very similar; daily driver, reliable motor, light towing, light off-road use. I have parts of three Jeeps (long story, don’t ask) that get me down this rabbit hole far enough to miss the sunlight.

I have a pretty darn nice Arizona body, Dana 44’s with 373 gears, 4” lift and an ax15 with the hydraulic master/slave and np231.

Started thinking about the 606 for the exact same reasons you mentioned. Doesn’t hurt that I have a Mercedes tech in town who is into swapping three pointed diesel motors into American trucks.

I have the same expectations about a build cost as well. $10,000 is going to take me a couple of years to come up with but I have been dreaming about this for a while so I’m going for it. This makes sense on absolutely no level except that I will be grinning like a goat eating briars the whole time I’m driving it. Eagerly awaiting your build thread and I’m pulling for 230-ohc to get his issues sorted out.
'86 GW, work in progress.
'01 wj, DD

Billybob535
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Dec 25, 2017 5:44 am

Re: OM606?

Postby Billybob535 » Thu May 03, 2018 12:45 pm

I just noticed you are in Charleston SC. I am in Shallotte NC (on the coast just over the NC/SC border) about 3 hours up Rt 17 from you. We may cross paths eventually. Hopefully both in a MB powered FSJ. LOL

Red-dog
Posts: 67
Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2016 12:06 pm
Location: Charleston, SC

Re: OM606?

Postby Red-dog » Thu May 03, 2018 3:37 pm

Hey, I know Shallotte. Sometimes take the scenic route up to the Outer Banks.
'86 GW, work in progress.
'01 wj, DD

Billybob535
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Dec 25, 2017 5:44 am

Re: OM606?

Postby Billybob535 » Thu May 24, 2018 5:38 am

Here is some more info to consider (maybe this will help someone searching about this swap).

I have made no major progress since my previous post as I have been ill for 3+ weeks.

I got the 83 Cherokee home without too much trouble. The carb needs repair but the 258 runs good and does not leak oil. The starter needs either replaced or rebuilt. It does not like to engage every time but works fine when it does engage. The trans/transfer case/clutch/front axle/hubs all seem to work good (pulled the rear driveshaft then drove it on to the dolly in 4wd). The brakes only grab at the very bottom of the pedal but since I am going to do the HB swap I will address that later. The power steering box appears to have a blown input shaft seal but I may be swapping the whole box out so no big deal. The chassis is very nice and other than the issues that will be addressed with the HB swap it is in good mechanical condition. The body is shot but it came with a clean transferrable title. I will just silicone the crap out of the rusty areas and swap on a clean body in a couple years. I will get the motor running, the lights and wipers working, fix the brakes and steering box then get it inspected. Once its legal then the old powertrain can come out and be sold to make room for the swap.

I bought the HB bracket for the FSJ/95 Astro HB swap from Elliott. I have not made it to the junkyard to get a booster yet. He provided me with a source for a bolt on MC for under $30. I will figure out lines after I get it mounted. I found out the 98/99 OM606 PS pump is a 115 bar (1700 psi) unit which is too much pressure for the 95 Astro HB. I also found out that the 95 W124 non turbo OM606 uses a 95 bar (1400 psi) PS pump which is perfect for the Astro HB (per Elliott's advise). I was going to pick up a 95 W124 to use the all mechanical IP so that will also donate the PS pump. I may even swap in the NA OM606 temporarily then replace it with the turbo model when I find one.

I need to replace the non tilt column in the 83 with a tilt column (too much me not enough room from wheel to seat). I will probably use a column from a 93 or older XJ and grab the steering box and shaft at the same time. I may have to have the shaft lengthened but it should all bolt in. The wiper switch and dimmer switch on the 83 is shot so I will use the XJ column ones. I will have to replace the headlight switch but that's ok because they are cheap. The local junkyards are full of XJs so there will be lots of donors to choose from (unless I find a whole one cheap).

I got the OM606 to AX-15 adapter from Mercedesdiesel4x4. It is very nice but since I don't have a motor yet I have not been able to test fit anything besides the clutch disk and pressure plate to the flywheel. I will post some pics of the adapter setup when I get a chance.

Hopefully I can get over the crud before it gets too hot to work on the project.

230ohc
Posts: 275
Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2016 2:27 am
Location: Northern California

Re: OM606?

Postby 230ohc » Thu Jun 07, 2018 1:33 pm

Nice, good luck.

Please keep us up to date with plenty of
forum porn (pictures)
1964 willys wagoneer
Om617 turbo diesel
T18 granny
Dana 20
3.73 dana 27 front
3.73 dana 44 rear

Billybob535
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Dec 25, 2017 5:44 am

Re: OM606?

Postby Billybob535 » Wed Jun 13, 2018 5:05 am

230ohc wrote:Nice, good luck.

Please keep us up to date with plenty of
forum porn (pictures)


Thanks. Your build was part of the inspiration for this.


On 5/27 I picked up a 95 W124 with the OM606 (non turbo with the all mechanical injection pump, the mechanical throttle linkages, and the power steering pump I needed). The car is completely rusted out but the motor starts and runs great. It has 220k on it and no visible blow-by. The glow plug controller was gone but it has a great block heater that warms it up for an instant start. I was not going to use a factory GP relay anyways so no loss there. I will be pulling the motor and trans out this weekend so I can send the rusted out carcass to the recycler while prices are at $130/ton. I was going to use the motor temporarily until I found a turbo one but....

... on 6/3 I picked up a rusted out 99 W210 E300 with the turbo OM606. It has just under 87k miles on it and it starts and runs perfect. The car has been sitting for a few years and the delivery valves on the EDC pump leak a little but it does not matter since I will not be using that pump. Once the 95 is out of the way I will drive the 99 up on the pad for teardown. I will pull the motor, trans, intercooler, and plumbing then pilfer some other parts for my parents 99 E300 before I send it to the recycler. I will be swapping all the 95 front accessories to the 99 motor and vice versa. I picked up an OM648 rear sump oil pan, oil pump, dipstick, and dipstick tube which I will install on the turbo motor. I will install the mechanical injection pump on the turbo motor and make sure it all works then sell off the extra parts to recover some cost.

Once I have the motors out, assembled, and packed on pallets I will focus on finding some junkyard parts (Astro HB, lines, steering column, shaft, and box, etc) but otherwise I will be done for the summer. Its too hot here to wrench in July and August.

I am still trying to decide on if I want to just run the stock pump with 5.5mm elements for now or if I want to cough up $1400 and send it off to Dieselmeken to install 7.5mm elements and work his magic. I would not have any major power increase without a turbo and manifold upgrade and I am not looking for big power but having the pump built by him would give peace of mind. Decisions decisions.

230ohc
Posts: 275
Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2016 2:27 am
Location: Northern California

Re: OM606?

Postby 230ohc » Thu Jun 14, 2018 9:05 am

I'd be concerned with length, my 5 cylinder fills my bay. You may have to recess with different transfer mount in which case i.p. possibly interfere with steering. Custom intake as well due to 606 being large on that side clutch and brake too. I've never measured that motor but those would be my initial concerns at least in regards to measuring for fitment
1964 willys wagoneer
Om617 turbo diesel
T18 granny
Dana 20
3.73 dana 27 front
3.73 dana 44 rear

Billybob535
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Dec 25, 2017 5:44 am

Re: OM606?

Postby Billybob535 » Mon Jun 18, 2018 5:34 am

I pulled the 95 OM606 this weekend so I could get rid of the donor car. Sorry no motor pulling build porn pics as I was working alone early in the morning trying to beat the heat.

I just went outside and measured the OM606 length. It is 33.25" from the bellhousing mounting surface to the front of the mechanical fan clutch (that is the part that sticks out the farthest). My Cherokee is being stored offsite while I tear down the Mercedes donors so I can't grab a measurement there but I am pretty sure I will have enough room from firewall to radiator. I know there was more than enough room for me to fit my hands between the fan and radiator with an inch or so to spare so I would say there is a good 4-5 inches of space there. You can sort of see it in this picture: Image
I want to keep the OM606 mechanical fan as close to the radiator as I can so I won't have to fab a huge fan shroud. I will probably leave an inch or maybe a little more so the chassis could flex or if a mount was to break. I am using 2 different adapters (block to bellhousing and bellhousing to transmission) and an NV4500 so I know my trans and transfer case will get pushed back some. Even if it ends up being 3-4" it will be ok since I will have to have the driveshafts lengthened/shortened anyways and the current rear shaft is plenty long. I am hoping the shifter tower will end up right at the rear of the removable cover on the hump but if I have to cut into the floor and custom bend the shifter so be it. I am going to use a hydroboost brake setup so manifold to booster clearance won't be an issue. I plan to slightly offset the powertrain toward the passenger side for good clutch slave/driveshaft/steering shaft clearance. I will leave myself enough room for the turbo downpipe and just wrap it with something to control the heat. I will add a small body lift if I need any more height. I have the OM648 rear sump oil pan/pump/dipstick setup so axle to engine clearance should not be an issue. I will most likely end up running some Rancho 44044 2" lift springs up front so that will give me more if I need it.

The majority of the project is on hold now due to the heat. Its supposed to be in excess of 110 with the heat index for the next week so I will pick back up on it while I am off July 4-8.
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230ohc
Posts: 275
Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2016 2:27 am
Location: Northern California

Re: OM606?

Postby 230ohc » Wed Jun 27, 2018 8:11 am

Idk if 606 is the same...
My 617 bell plate was removed for adapter.
Saved 1.5"
On a side note I've seen some drifters using NASA gold heat tape on firewall to eliminate heat transfer with turbo LS swaps.
I haven't been curious enough to check prices but I've thought about it.
1964 willys wagoneer
Om617 turbo diesel
T18 granny
Dana 20
3.73 dana 27 front
3.73 dana 44 rear

Billybob535
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Dec 25, 2017 5:44 am

Re: OM606?

Postby Billybob535 » Fri Jun 29, 2018 5:23 pm

The Mercedesdiesel4x4 60x adapter is pretty thick (maybe an inch or so). The original mb flexplate (and starter) stays put and a spacer is bolted to it then a custom flywheel is bolted to that. I plan to have the motor as far forward as possible. I am going to measure the space from the radiator to the vacuum pump on the donor car and try to keep that distance. That way I know I will have enough room to remove the vacuum pump and IP bolts without pulling the radiator. I will have to source a new downpipe as the entire exhaust on my donor car is rotted. I was going to get the "wrap" stuff to go around it and fab a simple heat shield to go above it. The floor is rotten on the passenger side of the Cherokee so I will patch it with some sheet metal, put down some sound/heat blocking tape, then roll bedliner over it. The body will eventually be replaced with a rust free one so I don't want to do anything expensive this time around. The foil tape on the firewall sounds like a good idea though.


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