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Already tired of the carb, I figure it needs to rebuild or replace.
I would rather the reliability of TBI.
DYI is out of the question for me.
I have read a good bit and have decided to go with the Howell kit.
Question;
I have just installed a new plastic fuel tank and replaced all the rubber fuel lines to and from the carb and tank. Will this still work? Will the rubber fuel lines be used?
What preliminary work can be done prior to installation?
The Howell kit has the fuel line for pump to tb. If the new line is correct size you can use it. The Howell kit replaces the metal lines on frame in engine bay.
You can download the installation manual and look at what you can prep for, power supply, mounting for computer etc.
79 Cherokee WT QT Golden Eagle white with gold windows "Pigger" only blows hubs the night before a road trip or the clodest night of year. Has only been towed cause of stupid.
You can use your stock fuel line from the tank to the new fuel pump.
After the fuel pump, some people say you should use EFI rated fuel hose to connect to the hard lines. I do not. Even if your regulator fails, it is most likely to fail in the free flowing position. I use regular hose clamps on the fuel/hardline connections. Regulated pressure in a Howell TBI kit is ~12 psi.
Mount the new TBI fuel pump as close to the tank as you can and as low as you safely can. You don't want the pump to get bashed on a rock, but you don't want it to have to pull too hard to get fuel, either.
You will bypass your old fuel pump on the engine block. The kit should have a block off plate. Run fuel hose (or a bridge piece of hardline) from the frame rail line to the back on your TBI. The return line is under no pressure, so those new hoses should be fine, provided that the one connected to the TBI is the correct size.
Unless you have a welder at home (and are GOOD with it! Ha ha!), have an exhaust shop install the O2 bung in your exhaust system. I put mine just downstream of the junction in the Y pipe. And it must be BEFORE the catalytic converter. If you have a working AIR injection system, you must configure it NOT inject fresh air into the exhaust manifolds. That will fool the O2 sensor and it will not run right.
Not sure if it's on a 79 or not, but on the 80's era FSJs, there is an oval shaped port next to the steering column on the firewall that you can remove and is a perfect size for feeding all the ECM connectors and fuse blocks into. I lay the harness out on the engine and then drop the ECM connectors down over the brake booster and pull them through the firewall to the inside.
RE the switched power feed: It must be hot in both the CRANK and RUN positions. If not, the system will NEVER start. I like to use the factory wires that feed the Duraspark ignition.