1227747 $42 bin for stock 360V8

[shimniok]

In case it helps someone along the way, here's the bin file I'm currently running on Troubled Child as a starting point.

You'll need to adjust to get the proper static timing. See Below

Introduction
For context, the Jeep has a stock '84 360 V8 with ~100k original miles, stock 2v intake manifold, stock exhaust headers and Y-pipe, and 3" exhaust from the Y back. It runs 3.73:1 diff gears, 33" tires, 4" lift and TF727. I run around in Denver and nearby mountains and trails, elevations from 5000-12,000'.

How It Performs
The Jeep mostly drives like I want it to with excellent driveability in town and on the highway. It's quick off the line with lots of power part throttle. Gas mileage is consistently over 12mpg on highway with some city driving. I've been working on my TBI tune since the conversion in 2013, with friendly help from EagleMark and others on gearhead-efi.

Known issues
I have not completed wideband O2 tuning for WOT so it may run lean--beware. Also, power on mountain climbs in 3rd gear isn't awesome but this may be a factor of the tires, gearing, and aging motor or maybe because I haven't done WBO2 yet. Idle probably needs some more work. I also don't have a knock sensor, but each incremental increase in timing has not introduced audible knock or decrease in power, or I would've backed it down.

ASDU_20150804_amct2.bin

Timing
One of the things I learned is that timing is really, really important. What changed the tune from meh to wow was finally realizing how to correctly duplicate the factory timing curve.

The TSM lists the timing added by mechanical and vacuum advance, respectively, and the factory sticker calls for 16*BTDC initial timing at this altitude for 86 and similar for 84. So, basically, I put in the stock timing values and it runs very well.

So, using a spreadsheet I did my best to duplicate/interpolate the stock mechanical+vacuum advance curve and stuck that into Main SA. The distributor must be set at 10* for the engine to idle reliably and I set the static timing in the bin to 10* (it's important to set the static timing accurately so the ECM knows how to limit max timing!).

Bias Values
I realized that the "Warm bias" is actually the bias value for the Main Spark Advance table and the "Cold bias" is actually the bias for the Coolant Compensation table.

So to get to the proper stock timing, I then incrementally added timing up to 16* by adjusting the Main and Coolant bias values, though you could instead just add the values to the Main SA.

If you're not at high altitude, you'll want to adjust the Warm and Cold Bias (Main SA Bias and Coolant Comp Bias, respectively) to get to the proper static timing.

Conclusion
If I ever had doubts before about TBI delivering improved power and economy I certainly don't now.

Hope all this helps someone, some day.

[FSJ Guy]

Sweet! I'll take a look at it when I put my TBI on the limo. Thanks!

[inthehills250]

Just joined site to thank you and every one else for helping people out. Tried your bin yesterday on my CJ7 with AMC 304 dam thing laid scratch

on asphalt with 36s. All the stock GM bin files were so far off. Thanks this is so much better start point.

Just finished D60 w/ ARB / Ford 9" w/ spool axle swap W/ 456 gears TBI convert from 90 Chevy Van.

It had almost been a year since last drove.

About to have some FUN!!!!!!!!!!

I live in SoCal at about 2000'