best year/model for GM injection harness??

[rockosocko]

I know its kinda vague, but i found a couple of mid-90's GMC rental trucks in a 'yard' near me (NOT a pull it $$$)
and both had 454's. I was looking for axles at the time and never thought of searching it out for a whole injection harness.
Would these be "GOOD" candidates for the FI harness's from?
I would also think that they wouldn't have all the other 'stuff' on them that i'd probably be cutting out anyhow.

I've been reading and reading to the point of headaches of all the threads and searches.

The info isn't just for my 80 Cherokee that I'm going 2wd, but also my 'blasting' truck for my business.
It's a '64 2-ton chevy stake truck that will be holding a Caddy 500 to a NV4500 ending with a Dana80 (5.13's) and
adapters with 44" Super Single semi wheels/tires

[Bill usn-1]

If they are mid 90's TBI 454's then they would make good donors.
Most likely they have the 7427 PCM that can control the electronic auto also.
They main point is being able to tune the system to work on your engines. Some computers were only used 1 year and makes them less desirable.

[FSJ Guy]

Head on over to http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/forum.php and you can see the HUGE list of ECMs that are supported.

[rockosocko]

I like most, hate dealing with wiring and when I had my '96 Chevy, I joined GMtruckcentral.com to learn more on the '411' swap to them. (to which, remembering that the 411 processes 'trillions and trillions' of times faster than the standard 96 truck ecu for even better performance and mileage than it too. I even wondered if the injection "spider" of the OBD2 could be adapted to an AIR-GAP style intake or even a regular dual plane one, and extend the little fuel lines and injectors to make it a tuned-port AMC intake.) I DO have 2 harnesses and an express-van 411 ecu...

OF ALL the things I read on the TBI swap, I liked the welding/modding of the Jeep dizzy to OBD1. THAT I can handle I think.
I'm going to try and get out there today (in the sleet) and at least take some pics of the setups that they have.
BUT, I think that they both have the Allison 545's or variations thereof.
The good thing is that I'd really doubt that someone got to all the engine wiring, cutting it up..

Thanks. Errol

[rockosocko]

If it goes well, I may even try it to the caddy motor..

[Bill usn-1]

If you go to the injection forum on binderplanet.com you will see a couple of examples of DIY MPFI(not spider) that has 1 injector/cyl.
I know you may be reading lots on different forums and taking it all in but keep in mind that you will read a lot of stuff on the web and most from guys that have little to no true experience in fuel injection other than they followed the directions someone else posted on the web.

To convert an older carb engine to TBI EFI is a good improvement. To convert to MPFI is a bigger cost with little to no gain. To go to sequential MPFI like an OBDII system, would be additional work and expense with little to no gain on an engine that it was not designed for.
If you are just looking to do it because you can...that's great. If money plays any factor in the project then a basic TBI injection is the best bang for the buck.
The other alternative would be a complete drive train swap with a late model engine that already has what you want.

I develop and sell TBI and MPFI systems for many different older engines and run them on my own stuff. The TBI system works great on these older engines that were designed for carbs. Modern engines are designed for the injection system they use.
There's really no older engine out there that hasn't been converted to EFI of some type. Even my 49 Hudson super six flathead.

[rockosocko]

OOhhh.. More to read!

I grew up on a farm, have a degree in welding and LOVE to mess with machinery, so I'm ALWAYS looking to 'better' whatever I can or the "...what if I just..."
So, i tend to mess with stuff and am not really afraid of trying things. BUT wiring is still a challenge since it sometimes doesn't make sense to me, and schematics (especially with lots of colors) seem to help me greatly. Had to come out of retirement, but have a little extra 'project' money, since it's kinda for my business truck.

Since you develop this stuff, what sensors would I need from the 454 Kodiak truck that would help?
I braved the sleet and found one that had NOTHING taken from it, even in the cab!! (but was soo excited that forgot to snap off some pics)
Would I need any under dash stuff besides the ALDL port/wiring?
How 'bout the actual distributor and alternator? I thought of making a coller/sleeve and make one distributors from 2. Like a Hybrid with AMC bottom and GM top.

Thanks again and I'll do some digging, and I'll promise that I'll get more pics, and if you want i can mail them to you for descriptions sake.

Errol

[Bill usn-1]

Everything you are asking has been done and laid out in the injection forum on the binder planet. To include the GM hybrid distr. Tho I will say that the ford Duraspark factory distr is a much simpler and cheaper one to use.
Here's a direct link to the thread you need.
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/show ... hp?t=47254
I already retired from the Navy and now I'm on my second career.

[FSJ Guy]

X2 on using the OEM distributor on your AMC motor. A simple weld will lock out the mechanical advance and you're good to go and you'll have computerized timing control, too! Since you're a welder by trade, I won't post up pictures of my POS welds! LOL!

Not sure about your Caddy 500 motor. I never messed with one of those.

As for sensors, grab everything that is bolted to the engine block and has a wire on it. : D Somewhere on the web is a list of what you REALLY need, but if you grab everything wired to the engine block, that's a decent start. You can always horse trade away what you don't end up needing. Better to have too much vs. too little!

The ECM's are usually found in the passenger side kick panel or behind the glove box. You'll also need an O2 sensor, but they're so cheap (and important!) that I'd recommend going with a new one instead of risking a bad used one.

That 411 PCM looks like (after a quickie Google search) to be an OBD II PCM used with multipoint FI. Once you get into spiders and MPFI, you really increase complexity and cost of your system. For a first timer, I'd definitely stick with TBI. TBI mimics a carb but is electronically controlled and has a computer constantly adjusting the mixture. That is what makes it easier for "carb" minded folks to wrap their head around it before they dive into more complex and $$$ solutions.

[jaber]

I did a caddy 425 and used short pig tails to bypass the internal ignition module and put an 8 pin to the firewall onto a heat sink. Has been running this way from over 5 years and its a used module...

Lots of pics in my photo bucket under j-20 folder.. Any questions feel free to ask.

I've been warned that the 454 TBI might not be enough for a 500 at upper rpms...

[rockosocko]

Virgin motor (that's showing over 400K miles)
http://imageshack.com/a/img537/1038/qedasp.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img537/5168/NmRzg0.jpg

Has the WHOLE harness in it, and under what would be the glove box- BUT.. The ECU doesn't look like your guys stuff! Different numbers from what I've read the past few weeks.
OH, and it's a March of 1992 mfg date in the door.
http://imageshack.com/a/img661/4863/b4Qiwn.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img661/4863/b4Qiwn.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img908/8573/YKm3PJ.jpg

What do you guys come up with on these numbers? It states its a re-man'd also.

On the TB not being big enough, I really don't expect to be revving over 4500, but who knows...
I'd love to find a dual carb'd intake and use another TB as a dummy without any wiring, just for AIR flow's sake.
A long term project I have is installing a Fleetwoods' LT1 motor into a 98 328i convertible, and instead of the goofy single TB, Using 3 Chrysler 3.5 TB's in-line for more flow going straight down to the ports.
Kinda like this guy did. Just on a smaller scale. (just picture one 'bank' or side that he's got)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZHCTBkcNsM

It CAN'T BE THAT HARD! I can weld it but it's the dang wiring..
Errol

[FSJ Guy]

I don't see anything for the # 88983805 that is on the label. Since the other #'s are incomplete, I can't get a good google search for a cross reference.

Can you take a picture of the entire ECM? Pop the cover and take a photo of what's inside. That will tell us a lot. 1992 should be OK. No OBD II to worry about. : D

[Bill usn-1]

Being a rental truck would mean auto and probably auto overdrive so that would narrow down the PCMs.
If non OD auto
1228747
87 - 92 C/K Truck, Van, 5.7L & 7.4L (HD)

OD auto
16147060 or 16127470
91 - 93 C/K Truck, Van, 5.7L & 7.4L (HD)
If it was a 94-95
16196395 or
16197427
94 C/K Truck, Van, 5.7L & 7.4L (HD)
16197427 or 16156930
95 C/K Truck, Van, 5.7L & 7.4L (HD)

And that shopping list is with the rest of the parts list on the binderplanet.