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Hey guys, thanks to all the help Ive received here the Chief is running like champ. I couldn't stop grinning while driving her. Anyway my next hurdle is going to be passing smog. I was wondering if any one had some cool tips or tricks to help these pass. Its got the howell FI kit that is not California, but Im in Nevada so hopefully it will be good. What Ive heard so far is to make sure the cat is nice and hot before I take it in. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
You should have no problems passing the tailpipe test. The visual test is a different story. Make sure all your smog equipment is visible and installed.
Most likely they won't poke under the air cleaner to see if you have the EGR intact, but the smog pump and air injection tubes (if your year has one) are easily seen simply by lifting the hood.
There are two Howell kits. The parts included are basically the same, but you pay a premium for the one with the CARB (California Air Resources Board) number. Certainly the CARB certified kit will pass - it's 50 states legal. Whether the kit without the CARB cert will pass depends on your local laws. In California, there is both a tailpipe and a visual test. Any aftermarket parts have to have a CARB cert or they will not pass the visual.
You need to check on what's required for your state. The CARB-cert kit instructions tells you which emissions devices to keep and which to remove. In that case, you have the cert to prove that it's ok to remove the air pump, for example. Without the CARB cert, you have to determine yourself what the law requires. There's usually a web site - http://www.dmvnv.com/emission.htm - this web site says you will have to pass a tailpipe test if you live in the urban areas of Clark or Washoe counties.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Thanks for all the info guys! Well I did in fact remove all of the smog pieces when installing the kit per the instructions. Fortunately I kept all of the pieces, so if they do a visual I will just go back and put them on. Wish me luck!
mmarriott2 wrote:Thanks for all the info guys! Well I did in fact remove all of the smog pieces when installing the kit per the instructions. Fortunately I kept all of the pieces, so if they do a visual I will just go back and put them on. Wish me luck!
You could go to your local friendly certification station, and ask them what they will do when they test. It should not be a secret. The state wants you to comply, not to be punished.
In some cases, the station can run a test scan to see where you are, without running the cert process. Also good to ask.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Strode182 wrote:Oh, I did not know that getting a CARB certified aftermarket fuel injection system gives you documentation to remove stuff like the AIR pump.
Fuel injection is sounding better all the time. What generally comes off, just the AIR pump? The EGR stays, right?
Yeah, I think so. Howell may have the instructions online somewhere. I know I've seen them, either from someone that posted them on IFSJA or online somewhere. You should be able to get rid of a ton of vaccum modulated stuff (CTOs and such), by adding the control computer. Shouldn't be much different from the non-approved kit - a different PROM, a sticker and the instructions that are different. The higher cost is mostly paying back their investment in getting the kit approved.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I think the smog pump removal is the biggest thing. But you CAN leave it on and plumb it so it does not inject air into the manifolds. That will allow your O2 sensor to work correctly. My 88 passed the tailpipe easily with this arrangement and the smog pump passed the visual inspection. They didn't care about the aftermarket Edelbrock Performer intake at all. I even fabbed up a dual snorkel air cleaner housing.