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What do you mean? The rod that pulls down? It just pops off, IIRC.
I'd suggest you use a piece of 10-32 all-thread and these rod ends to substitute for the fixed length rod - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... ?RecID=181 I bought some from Summit, but I could not find them there now. Maybe they have them, if you pick the right search terms.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Shoulda been more clear on that, it was late and I was cold and tired from wrenching outside.
On my 258 the throttle cable exits the stock bracket attached to the manifold underneath and almost ahead of the throttle pegs on the throttle body. if I hook the throttle lever/shaft up there is so much bind in the system that the accelerator pedal can not be used. I borrowed a piece off of one of my other 258's and made a 90* shaft which helped but did not cure the problem. the pedal seems to want to stick at or near WOT and default there.
had to play with the timing a good bit (with set timing wire disconnected) and I got it to start but it pretty much immediately stalls out. The longest I had it running was maybe 10 seconds before it stalled. I could definitely tell the computer was trying its best to control everything but I just can't get it to maintain an idle.
Pretty sure I flooded the engine so I'm done for tonight.
This is with a generic stock 258 tune.
82 J10
77 J10 Golden Eagle 401
88 GW
You know it's bad when your car is on the EPA's 10 most wanted list!
The system requires spark/tach signal to have the injectors fire.
If you have fuel pressure for the 2 sec the pumps runs on the initial key on then verify you have 12v to the red wires at the injectors with the key on.
Then you can connect a test light between the leads on the injector connector and it should blink as you crank.
If you have the 12v with key on but no blick when cranking then the ecm is not getting the tach signal from the ignition module or you have a wiring problem.
Got it running now. My main issues were fuel leaks and a so/so connection with the IAC. I have to build a linkage for the throttle then I can drive it.
82 J10
77 J10 Golden Eagle 401
88 GW
You know it's bad when your car is on the EPA's 10 most wanted list!
OK, the source of my code 45 was a vacuum leak. I'm running my MAP sensor directly from the manifold and I left the stock port uncapped. Runs good now and starts better but acceleration seems sluggish.
I'm getting there
82 J10
77 J10 Golden Eagle 401
88 GW
You know it's bad when your car is on the EPA's 10 most wanted list!