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I have an '85 GW (completely stock, reblt at 95k, now 143k, tranny reblt at 87k), 360, 2bbl, running horribly, but ran like a top at one time! I'd like to install a Fuel Injection system, but I'm not sure how to approach this topic? I'm not looking for a HP jeep, stock with some additional oomph would be nice! I'm looking for a reliable system that doesn't cost too much! Need advice! Ask any questions necessary to help me come up with a plan. OR do I just step up to a 4bbl and leave it alone?
Bill Hamilton has one of the nicest TBI setups for the money on the market. If you look on the binder planet forum you can read up on everything required for tbi, including instructions on how to do a junkyard tbi if you are capable. He helped me work through an install on my rig using another supplier. ( would not recommend them, afi is that brand and I was not impressed with quality). The main advantage I was looking for was the starting improvements in cold weather. Something that's not that great with these rigs with a carb. Just some food for thought.
toothofwar wrote:Bill Hamilton has one of the nicest TBI setups for the money on the market. If you look on the binder planet forum you can read up on everything required for tbi, including instructions on how to do a junkyard tbi if you are capable. He helped me work through an install on my rig using another supplier. ( would not recommend them, afi is that brand and I was not impressed with quality). The main advantage I was looking for was the starting improvements in cold weather. Something that's not that great with these rigs with a carb. Just some food for thought.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
Agree 100%.
Hamilton is without a doubt the best, and the best for the buck. AFI, PFI and Howell are the other systems in the same price range, but for the $100 to $200 you save with them, you spend it in frustration, fixing your own screw ups and most of all TIME, TIME, TIME. I used a non-Hamilton system and spent a lot of time unbundling pigtails, punching out connectors and replacing whole wires to get things the length I needed without using splices. Nobody with Bill's (Hamilton) system has had to do that.
There are some other systems that have come down in price like FiTech and Holley Sniper, but the discussions I've seen on those seem full of frustration and buying expensive fuel systems to get them to work; in the end, the folks running them seem to be content, but less than thrilled.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
toothofwar wrote:Bill Hamilton has one of the nicest TBI setups for the money on the market. If you look on the binder planet forum you can read up on everything required for tbi, including instructions on how to do a junkyard tbi if you are capable. He helped me work through an install on my rig using another supplier. ( would not recommend them, afi is that brand and I was not impressed with quality). The main advantage I was looking for was the starting improvements in cold weather. Something that's not that great with these rigs with a carb. Just some food for thought.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
Agree 100%.
Hamilton is without a doubt the best, and the best for the buck. AFI, PFI and Howell are the other systems in the same price range, but for the $100 to $200 you save with them, you spend it in frustration, fixing your own screw ups and most of all TIME, TIME, TIME. I used a non-Hamilton system and spent a lot of time unbundling pigtails, punching out connectors and replacing whole wires to get things the length I needed without using splices. Nobody with Bill's (Hamilton) system has had to do that.
There are some other systems that have come down in price like FiTech and Holley Sniper, but the discussions I've seen on those seem full of frustration and buying expensive fuel systems to get them to work; in the end, the folks running them seem to be content, but less than thrilled.
Once I got rid of the fuel command center can and went with an intank it's wonderful. The FCC is a piece of junk that overheats the fuel pump and shuts its down at idle because of low fuel flow, but it uses your mechanical pump with it. .you can go intank which is ideal but a bit more complicated or you can go online fuel pump which is noisier and could heat up in summer 100 degrees plus possibly give problem.
Fitech and holly sniper are great kits and they just put out a 2bbl one recently so you don't even have to get a new manifold.
That's way I'd go again if I had to.
87 Grand Wagoneer Rebuilt 360 by S&J, Fitech GO EFI 600, Novak in-tank fuel pump, Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift, BFG AT KO2 30", Dynamax Muffler, MSD distributor, MSD ignition, Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake, Elgin perf cam, Oil tube mod, Roller rockers, chrome molly lifters, HD alum radiator, Powermaster 150/100 alt, Alum HD water pump, Serhills tailgate harness, Cowl screen mod, Evil Twin grab handles, Rstep's custom AMC door lock knobs, all electrical works.
First off, thanks to everyone who replied!! Sounds like the Hamilton system is the way to go, so I'll be checking out the website this evening. I have a stock distributor and ignition coil, any recommendations that aren't astronomically expensive? Someone asked about miles driven, right now between 0-200 because it's running terribly. I've owned the GW since 1994 and I bought it for $1500 after leaving the Air Force. My kids call it the Fun Truck because we could go anywhere and never feared anything! If I could get it running like it used to, I'd drive it at least 5k miles/yr. I also will have it painted and interior work done as well. I've driven it all kinds of bad weather and have never had any trouble!! I can't wait to get it running again!!
Don't mess with the ignition until you look over the fuel injection stuff (TBI) since the TBI is going to take over the ignition maps and curves. Your distributor will be locked (no mechanical or vacuum advance) the computer will tell the spark when to happen, and you can run just about any coil you're willing to wire in; Factory Ford or Chrysler E-core or MSD Douche-A-Spark 5000, you can even keep the stock one of you want.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.