Cherokee AMC 360 Sniper EFI install
Posted: Sat May 12, 2018 9:13 pm
Rather valuable answer
Complete Holley aftermarket unit.Jeepin87 wrote:What fuel pump, sender unit is that? Factory replacement with a pump attached or is it a complete aftermarket unit?
I will answer soon. I have been down since June with back issues. I am back at it though.Davidpsalt wrote:so what is the final verdict - how did everything go? Are you happy with the results?
I anxiously await your replay as I have a 1989 Grand Wagoneer - here in GA I am past worrying about emissions, hence i am dumping all the smog equipement and want to add EFI to make starting and running more reliable for me, wife, and kids now driving. Also, interested in improving power.
Looking for recommendations on the proper package - not cheapest - but a coordinated package. I.e. Eddelbrock Performer intake - ERG or no ERG? Holley Sniper EFI, which dizzy do I go with to best work with Holley for timing control? Should I upgrade my cam, lifters, and springs? (My valve stem seals are leaking so it may make sense to fix those if I am doing new springs to work with the new cam).
Leaving factory heads and exhaust manifolds - putting in a straight pipe in place of the un-needed cat.
thanks for our advice!
Dave
Atlanta
You can put an adjustable rotor on Duraspark, and I did that first and drilled the hole in the top to hit it with a timing light and got it setup perfectly. Still had the problem. I understand your point, but the problem is that changing the distributor and doing NOTHING else on purpose fixed the problem. Never happened again. I don't think anyone would agree that the Duraspark and the 8519 are technical equals. There's no question that the 8519's design provides a more precise and consistently timed signal. This doesn't mean the Duraspark is junk, because it's not. It's just not the best solution for this application.babywag wrote:The MSD 8519 & duraspark are virtually identical.
The main difference using an msd is an adjustable rotor is available to ease phasing.
If you search you’ll find tech info on how to properly phase a duraspark for efi.
Of course MSD tech is going to recommend a product their companies sell(msd 8519/8523).
If they made a dual sync for AMC they’d likely say you needed one if them.
If you put an 8519&duraspark on a scope, you would see identical signals.
I will try to address the distr setup to clear up some of the misinformation, mostly being spread around the Jeep forums.007 wrote:I have not read this entire thread, so I apologize if I'm stepping on good advice already out there - but I have about 8k miles on my Sniper in my CJ and from what I learned VERY early in running it is that the stock distributor will most likely not be able to handle timing control very well.
Here's why... we basically have Ford distributors running backwards and you can fine tune the reluctor a bit, but due to variances in the pickup coupled with the fact that it runs backwards from what the distributor electronics were designed it will eventually throw the computer off. Mine ran fine at speed in most cases, but at idle it would surge from time to time. Like 1000-1500rpm surge. It was nowhere near safe at a stoplight. I sent them saved info from the dash unit and they examined it and came to this conclusion. Basically the variances are accounted for in the computer up to a certain point and once you reach that mathematical point, it freaks out and sends a load of fuel to the body. It surges, then recalculates immediately back to normal idle. There were three options. Remove timing control, MSD 8519 pro-billet distributor, or the other MSD distributor that runs off electronic eye. Removing timing wasn't an option for me and the electronic eye distributor at the time did not come in an AMC model, so I went with the pro-billet distributor and problem was solved immediately.
Remember too, you set your timing 10 degrees in advance at the crank, then put number 1 at TDC, then set your distributor so 1 is right on the money.
Thank you for the info/update. I did everything I knew how to do to phase in my distributor. It would run like a clock down the road and 99% of the time. But on several occasions I would get that surge at idle, and for whatever reason changing distributors erased the problem.Bill usn-1 wrote:I will try to address the distr setup to clear up some of the misinformation, mostly being spread around the Jeep forums.007 wrote:I have not read this entire thread, so I apologize if I'm stepping on good advice already out there - but I have about 8k miles on my Sniper in my CJ and from what I learned VERY early in running it is that the stock distributor will most likely not be able to handle timing control very well.
Here's why... we basically have Ford distributors running backwards and you can fine tune the reluctor a bit, but due to variances in the pickup coupled with the fact that it runs backwards from what the distributor electronics were designed it will eventually throw the computer off. Mine ran fine at speed in most cases, but at idle it would surge from time to time. Like 1000-1500rpm surge. It was nowhere near safe at a stoplight. I sent them saved info from the dash unit and they examined it and came to this conclusion. Basically the variances are accounted for in the computer up to a certain point and once you reach that mathematical point, it freaks out and sends a load of fuel to the body. It surges, then recalculates immediately back to normal idle. There were three options. Remove timing control, MSD 8519 pro-billet distributor, or the other MSD distributor that runs off electronic eye. Removing timing wasn't an option for me and the electronic eye distributor at the time did not come in an AMC model, so I went with the pro-billet distributor and problem was solved immediately.
Remember too, you set your timing 10 degrees in advance at the crank, then put number 1 at TDC, then set your distributor so 1 is right on the money.
There are a couple guys that started spreading the rumor that a distributor does not require to be properly phased to work with EFI timing control.
This is normally from ignorance of what is really happening in the distr and the computer.
But because someone did a conversion to GM TBI and did not properly phase the distr and it ran, they then posted all over the web that it was not required.
THIS IS FALSE.
The reluctor/rotor phasing must be properly changed for timing control.
The Holley system has different phasing requirements.
I have have converted hundreds of distributors for GM timing control and have already done many for the Holley system.
They are different. But both require changes from a factory mech adv distr.
Here's the bottom line TRUTH.
The factory distributor will work fine for timing control if you DO NOT listen to the experts on the web and properly convert it.
A system will only work if it is correctly set up.