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That's awesome. What's the big thing with the gauges on it near the radiator overflow bottle?
Mind sharing how much it cost, how hard it was to install and make run correctly, and are you happy with it??


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I like the readout on the display monitor. Keep us posted, it would be a nice modification for a lot of us.

Looks like a fcc (fuel command center), this is where it becomes high pressure and a high flow pump deliver fuel from tank to the fcc

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tedlovesjeeps71 wrote:That's awesome. What's the big thing with the gauges on it near the radiator overflow bottle?
Mind sharing how much it cost, how hard it was to install and make run correctly, and are you happy with it??


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Ya that's the FCC it's $399 kinda cool, kinda overkill. I had some extra money to blow at the time.
It converts the mechanical fuel pump from low pressure to up to 100lbs. It has a sump that holds a quart of fuel in a reservoir.
Fitech TB has a regulator that holds at 60.

If I had to do all over I'd probably do an Intank fuel pump for a hundred. Not that I'm disappointed in FCC but it's spendy and took a lot of redneck engineering. Had to move the cruise control box forward, refit a 90* angle to the vent hose because it went strait up and kinked on the hood, and make a heat shield(probably more overkill) because it's sorta close to exhaust manifold. There's not as much room as I thought I'd have. I originally mounted it where the overflow bottle was but it wouldn't clear the hood and I had to delete my overflow bottle. I decided this just sucked and wasn't safe and relocated it.

The Fitech unit was $999 and requires a 4bbl manifold ($300 new edlebrock).

Installation not too hard. You can drill your own hole for the 02bung and use the straps provided. I had a local shop weld mine in for overkill. Run sensor wires and hook up to battery. The throttle cable is too short so mod had to made there. Someone said a V6 wag throttle cable works but I'd already went with mod. I put a closer pic so you can see.

On startup select the engine size and it should start right up. It will learn and adjust AFR based on the 02 sensors readout on the other end. Then there's some minor, finer adjustments can be made on the handheld to help on cold starts, warm starts, WOT hesitations, back to idle rpm speed. Pretty much plug and play just to get basic running. Only have to adjust IAC fuel screw on front of u it to get the initial fuel flow.

I'm an intermediate driveway mechanic and it wasn't that bad. Had to have some help here and there but np. I had the unit running for a week or so and was fine tuning it when I decided to replace timing chain, gear, water pump, alternator, belts, etc... I had to have it relearn with the new gear I put on learn how to do timing and I'm done with that now.

Running really sweet and I'm happy. Been driving around everywhere and feels good to have more dependable feelings assured.

Gumby wrote:I like the readout on the display monitor. Keep us posted, it would be a nice modification for a lot of us.

It has 3 other pages of info. My next step is to figure out what they all mean and adjust them for max performances.

I was just showing what the handheld showed vs the volt meter on the dash under full electrical load. And was wondering which one was lying and by how much.

I wondered if the extra draw on the system would be a concern bieng that it was designed in 87 and not for an electric fuel pump and electric FI. So I upgraded my alternator to a Powermaster 140 from TGW, seemed my other alternator was laboring some.

I'm almost finished installing mine, where did you tap into for the keyed power for the fitech? I'm using an in tank pump without timing control. Last 2 wires to hookup are the keyed power and the coil (tach) signal

1978 Cherokee/Wagoneer 360/727/NP229 (soon NP208)
4" BJ'S Lift
Thorley Headers/Magnaflow Exh
Edelbrock Intake
Fitech TBI (in the works)
32" BFG KM2'S
Razor Grill
///This is a project vehicle///

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Is that the starter solenoid?

1978 Cherokee/Wagoneer 360/727/NP229 (soon NP208)
4" BJ'S Lift
Thorley Headers/Magnaflow Exh
Edelbrock Intake
Fitech TBI (in the works)
32" BFG KM2'S
Razor Grill
///This is a project vehicle///

Nevermind figured it out. Hopefully starting it up tomorrow for the first time.

1978 Cherokee/Wagoneer 360/727/NP229 (soon NP208)
4" BJ'S Lift
Thorley Headers/Magnaflow Exh
Edelbrock Intake
Fitech TBI (in the works)
32" BFG KM2'S
Razor Grill
///This is a project vehicle///

Another question, in the 4th pic you have a small rubber hose under where the return line is connected. I noticed the nipple there too hut nowhere in the instructions does it say to hook this up to anything. What is it? I thought maybe like a relief for the pressure regulator or something, did you plumb it to your charcoal canister?

1978 Cherokee/Wagoneer 360/727/NP229 (soon NP208)
4" BJ'S Lift
Thorley Headers/Magnaflow Exh
Edelbrock Intake
Fitech TBI (in the works)
32" BFG KM2'S
Razor Grill
///This is a project vehicle///

PUDS wrote:Another question, in the 4th pic you have a small rubber hose under where the return line is connected. I noticed the nipple there too hut nowhere in the instructions does it say to hook this up to anything. What is it? I thought maybe like a relief for the pressure regulator or something, did you plumb it to your charcoal canister?

1978 Cherokee/Wagoneer 360/727/NP229 (soon NP208)
4" BJ'S Lift
Thorley Headers/Magnaflow Exh
Edelbrock Intake
Fitech TBI (in the works)
32" BFG KM2'S
Razor Grill
///This is a project vehicle///

I plugged it to the other one in the back of throttle body instead of plugging both nipples. did t need em.

Issue with the low pressure gauge. Reads zero.

Called fitech. Spoke to customer rep. Seemed like the most overwhelmed, stressed out guy ever. He said the gauges were a bad batch and he could send me a new one but it would have the same problem.

Replaced with $40 same kind gauge from autozone.

Same problem.

Tore apart FCC (sorry forgot pics. Was trying to stay focused) all was clean inside, no plugs.. Put back together, still no reading.....

Gauge works intermittently now. Seems it always got the fuel, just that the gauges don't work sometimes. Don't know what to make of it. But it works well enough, just not perfectly dammit!

PUDS

What in-tank fuel pump did you use?

Babywag did a write up of the best way to intank fuel pump.

Best foolproof, most economical way to keep existing components. Very simple. I haven't read it in some time so I forget specifics.

Search for it or wait he'll chime in I'm sure.

I'd recommend searching for his.

Dont use FCC has a major flaw discovered.

Oh yeah. Jeep did great 150 mile round trip. Except when we did a little slow wheelin to get to the top and idled for a few minutes to take some pics and hang out and things got warm.

Engine did great but the FCC cooked up the fuel pump some exposing a major flaw for off roading and it got hot and shut off and wouldn't restart. Combined with the extra heat from the hills we climbed, elevation, and idling. Not enough fuel seems to circulate from the gas tank to keep the sump cool enough as it doesn't draw enough cool gas when it idles... A couple handfuls of ice and a few minutes wait it started back up and cooled off just fine all the way back np once the air circulation and gas circulation did its thing.

Im building an in tank hi pressure fuel pump system tomorrow and FCC will go back to summit with no good recommendations from me.

The FCC is not for off road applications I dropped in the Novak in tank pump. What is your experience since going to in tank pump?

Renodemona wrote:The FCC is not for off road applications I dropped in the Novak in tank pump. What is your experience since going to in tank pump?

Have not had a single problem. It's been about a year now and a daily driver.