Fuel Line and Pump questions for EFI conversion

[Cataldo]

I know this has been asked before but I am a bit overwhelmed by the options and different opinions.

I scored a lightly used Quick Fuel QFI TBI EFI system for a lightly used 2004r converter (That was too loose for my liking) and $300. This is the system FWIW https://www.quickfueltechnology.com/qui ... minum.html

This system will probably go on my '75 Wagoneer First, then when I build the 5.3 I'll swap it onto either my Camaro or the Mustang. My plan is to swap this thing on ASAP for as little as possible, the Wagoneer already has a good 3/8 feed and return line system on it and vented tank which makes life much easier.

This is the pump assembly I am going to run https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/fue ... el-module/ (The non regulated one as I already have a regulator). I need a new fuel sending unit as well so this makes sense.

How can I not spend a fortune running AN hose the length of the Wagoneer?

-Can I somehow reuse my metal lines? Is this safe?

-Are there some economical and quality line options? (Preferably not shiny Stainless)

-What do y'all recommend?

-Also where have y'all mounted your regulators and routed your fuel lines?

Thanks,

[PUDS]

I bought a new sending unit from BJS for 45 bucks and modified it and added a Walbro pump. Basically have to cut off the stock pickup tube and reuse that as the return line. Then drill out the stock return tube and replace with 3/8 line. How each tube terminates is your choice, but I had GM EFI quick clips added to mine and replaced all fuel lines with nylon like new cars use. All in with professional cleaning of my tank and the shop doing the rework on the sending unit, I'm about the same price as just the Novak pump and I don't need a regulator because Fitech is built in.

1988 GW 360/727/NP229
4" BJ'S Lift
Thorley Headers/Magnaflow Exh
Edelbrock Intake
Fitech TBI (in the works)
32" BFG KM2'S
Razor Grill
///This is a project vehicle///

[PUDS]

FWIW, what I have described above is exactly what Novak is doing and marking up. Great idea and product by them, but if you can save money by doing it all yourself/local shop.

1988 GW 360/727/NP229
4" BJ'S Lift
Thorley Headers/Magnaflow Exh
Edelbrock Intake
Fitech TBI (in the works)
32" BFG KM2'S
Razor Grill
///This is a project vehicle///

[REDONE]

FWIW, what I have described above is exactly what Novak is doing and marking up. Great idea and product by them, but if you can save money by doing it all yourself/local shop.

Totally, but if you just want it now and with a warranty, Novak is the way to go.

I'm with you as a DIYer, I got the pump for an 92 Chevy V10 and I'll figure out how to stick it on the bottom of my sender.

[PUDS]

Agreed warranty is great and drop in unit is even better if you don't want to or don't have the ability to tackle it on your own.

1978 Cherokee/Wagoneer 360/727/NP229 (soon NP208)
4" BJ'S Lift
Thorley Headers/Magnaflow Exh
Edelbrock Intake
Fitech TBI (in the works)
32" BFG KM2'S
Razor Grill
///This is a project vehicle///

[babywag]

lol my pump has a lifetime warranty, and it was cheap.

For the OP I'd get clarification from Novak on what exactly you're buying. From their own description it sure doesn't sound like a drop in unit??

"Installation requires that the fuel tank be lowered (and preferably nearly empty) and that the factory fuel module be modified as directed in the supplied instructions. A drill is required, and we also recommend a high-speed rotary tool such as a Dremel or air file.
Any person or shop working on any factory or conversion vehicle fuel system must consider that any open flame or electrical spark or tool spark in the proximity to fuel and especially fuel vapors can cause massive damage to life, health and property. Improper electrical connections can spark, overheat and ignite fuels and their vapors. If the installer is not qualified to work on a vehicle fuel system, they should seek the consulting and installation services of someone who is competent in this area."

[Cataldo]

That is something I need to look into, if you have a parts list that would be amazing.


One thing i am now confused about, the Novak system has a fuel sending unit in it, the factory splits that up to sending unit and pickup tube.

Where does the Novak one go?

sending unit
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/Fuel-Level-Se ... p_841.html

Pickup Tube
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/Fuel-Pickup-T ... p_833.html

[babywag]

I say DIY and save some $.
Choose the pump you want use be it OE style or aftermarket like walbro.
Modify a stock sending unit, and install.

It would almost have to be installed where the sender is? The early tank that uses a pickup is very shallow there. I don't see how it would work installing a pump in front of tank in that location?

[Cataldo]

Tony,

That makes sense. I emailed Novak and they confirmed this as well. What do you put on the bottom of the pickup tube/bottom of the pump? Do you have any fuel starvation problems?

[babywag]

The pickup screen attached to pump is ~1/8 from bottom of tank.
The '80-up poly wag tank is a different animal. It has a small drop in floor of tank right in that location.
I've never had any fuel starvation issue(s). But I have never had it at any really extreme angles since converting it.
Couple hills ~60* angle close by with low tank nose down no problems.
Once when I was on vacation someone siphoned my tank. Thing took over 19 gallons to fill so works pretty good.
I've run it down to fume territory many times over years.

Honestly if I were to convert another one I'd just do a blazer tank w/ stock vortec or ls pump. Dirt cheap new online and better tank/pickup assembly that is EFI ready.

Lots of ways to get it done without spending a fortune. I used a new roll of 3/8 steel line on '88 and FI rated hose/clamps.
The '90 I went with el cheapo frame external pump. Only time I hear it run is on those 60* nose down hills and it's just a slight whine.
Again no fuel starvation issues and I've also run it on fume city many times.

[cmaje72]

I have had no issues running the stock steel lines with fuel injection rated rubber hose and hose clamps where necessary on the TBI's swaps I have done and on my last LT1 wag. Running nylon lines w/quick disconnect fittings on my current swap.

[Cataldo]

Thank you very much for the tips and tricks.

I'll just put a flare on the metal lines and run efi rubber hose with efi hose clamps.


As for the fuel pump I am not seeing much of a cost savings with a DIY efi pump system, Walbro Pumps are over $100 as it is, plus a sending unit at $45 and associated fuel proof wiring? (I need to look up what is required of this, Might already have it).

[babywag]

An LT1 OE style pump is like $30-$40 depending on where you buy one. Or universal with similar specs.
There are others that'll work as well, and about same price.
You can get a walbro for under $100, just have to shop around, just be careful there TONS of knockoffs out there.
What you want/buy will obviously determine how much you spend. You can get it done for under ~$100, or you can go to the other end of the spectrum, and spend $500 pretty easily.
Can meet somewhere in middle too.

[Cataldo]

That makes sense. I'll need to figure out the specs on the pumps. I would imagine virtually any late 90s on fuel pump would fit the bill

[Xplitive]

if a walbro gss340 fits on the stick, I had a NIB one advertised on nastyz28 for $60ish if I remember correctly.

[Xplitive]

yep still have it - username over there is ErikNORCAL.