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FSJ Guy wrote:Sometimes if you solder in a low profile ZIF, you can get the cover on and that will help keep the chip mounted. Or you could get all fancy and insert some standoffs and then mount the cover on top. It wouldn't seal, but it would at least hold the chip in.
I ran the Honcho all summer with the doors off. Found some mud/dirt in the ECM because I didn't install the cover. Still works great, but I always carry a spare ECM just in case...
Blake wrote:ok so what are the options for the 7427 PCM?
Can desolder the factor chip and solder in a zif/dip socket similar to the 7747 ECM?
Yep. But, again wouldn't use a ZIF. ZIF sockets aren't designed to permanently hold chips.
Either solder the flash chip or a DIP socket right into the memcal.
With the HDR1 and a chip burner you can flash whatever .bin you want right to the memcal w/o removing the chip.
Pic of both options (chip direct to memcal, and DIP direct to memcal)
Pic of burn1+hdr1 and memcal
Pic of DIP memcal + ostrich for emulation and tuning w/o a chip installed yet.
I didn't want to spend $35 x2 for the adapters and still have to swap chips for burning them.
+ you still have to use the factory memcal if you want working knock control & limp mode.
I only spent ~$20 and don't have to swap chips for burning them.
I'm going to re-mount the PCM right side up AND we came up with a low density, but thick single sided tape at the shop I'm going to attach to the chip access plate. This will push slightly down on the chip and socket, but not so much to cause any heating issues.
1977 Cherokee Chief WT w/ 2" lift
360 (originally a 401)/TH400/QT w/ MM part-time
16197427 $OD junkyard TBI set-up
Haha! Other than a lot of HCs at idle my emissions test looks good! 2500 looks real nice! That's with no cat too (as '77 were "heavy duty", greater than 6k lbs GVW.
1977 Cherokee Chief WT w/ 2" lift
360 (originally a 401)/TH400/QT w/ MM part-time
16197427 $OD junkyard TBI set-up
High HCs at idle is normally a result of too much timing at idle.
Reduce 10* at idle and it should pass fine. (can just turn the distr back 10* before the test)
Got my Burn2 in the mail yesterday from Moates and have made changes to the VE tables after having a couple hours worth of data logs. I'll drive the truck into work today and seem if I'm getting close on my cold engine stumble being fixed with some more fuel.
I want to say how great Moates has been. Back in the spring when I was figuring out what chip combo to use a fella there was emailing with me on a SUNDAY to get it right. Also, I ordered my Burn2 on Thursday night and it shows up Monday afternoon. From Louisiana to Colorado on the cheap ground shipping. I figured I wouldn't see it for a week.
1977 Cherokee Chief WT w/ 2" lift
360 (originally a 401)/TH400/QT w/ MM part-time
16197427 $OD junkyard TBI set-up
embarrassingly enough, I haven't done much tuning on the 360 in the Honcho. I'm running a mostly stock ASDU bin in the 7747 that seems to run just fine. I've been 'wheeling several times and even towed the camper 300 miles without issue.
Mine doesn't have any issues with cold starting though.
So, interestingly, I couldn't connect to the ECU with Tuner Pro this morning or at lunch today. Just reads 'Connecting...'. I reset the preferences several times as well as restarting Tuner Pro multiple times. That's annoying. I reset the chip and the adaptor as well as attempting to burn the old tune back on, 'just in case'. Very weird. Tuner Pro detects the cable just fine, but no worky worky. I logged just dandy Thursday last week, no problems. I removed the ECU last night, pulled the adaptor and chip, burned the chip and re-installed the ECU this AM. Thoughts?
As for the tune. It's idling a lot higher (well, maybe 800rpm compared to 625) and ran a little gnarly first thing
this AM. I'm chalking this up again to some kind of adaptation process. Every time I burn a tune the IAC is real loud, it idles high and pops like it's lean than after a couple of drives it idles down and such.
1977 Cherokee Chief WT w/ 2" lift
360 (originally a 401)/TH400/QT w/ MM part-time
16197427 $OD junkyard TBI set-up
Check for codes error 51 (prom error) will make it idle high/run like poo because it'll be in limp home mode.
I drove my '90 that way for ~10 miles because the 9yr old dropped her backpack on the ecm and knocked the emulator cable loose.
My '90 won't connect via TunerPro if error 51 is present.
Paperclip in the ALDL connector and SES light will be blinking rapidly usually if error 51 is present.
However mine has given a similar issue w/ running like poo/not connecting in Tunerpro with no SES light activity whatsoever.
TunerPro not connecting can also be com port# changed thanks to Windows if using USB cable?
That one gets people all the time...
I guess this means I finally need to hook up an SES light. Bah. Is it a regular light bulb or a diode? If it's a bulb, could I just use a test light for now?
I double checked all the USB/Com port stuff. Again, it was working great until I pulled the chip and the adaptor out to flash it last night. I was wondering if using the Burn2 thru everything off, but I went through all my normal reset procedures.
1977 Cherokee Chief WT w/ 2" lift
360 (originally a 401)/TH400/QT w/ MM part-time
16197427 $OD junkyard TBI set-up
Could be a bad burn to the chip?
Another reason I hate pulling chips to burn 'em. If it doesn't take (and sometimes it doesn't) you get to pull it again.
Sometimes you need to manually set the memory addresses @ least w/ mine I have 2 sometimes.
I'm still using the Burn1 been using it for ~9yrs now!
YES you need to have an SES light.
Just a normal light bulb will work. It gets power when key on, ground comes from pcm wire to illuminate.
Found some mud/dirt in the ECM because I didn't install the cover. Still works great, but I always carry a spare ECM just in case...
Limits here for heavy duty is 1000 ppm for HCs.
How do you do it when you have 51?