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Nah, just buy a kit and rebuild TB yourself, dirt simple.
I have used Mr. Injector for cleaning in past, http://www.mrinjector.us/
No complaints, provided quick turn around.
Now there is a good place local to me, so I just use them for injectors.
babywag wrote:Nah, just buy a kit and rebuild TB yourself, dirt simple.
I have used Mr. Injector for cleaning in past, http://www.mrinjector.us/
No complaints, provided quick turn around.
Now there is a good place local to me, so I just use them for injectors.
Thanks again. It'll be a while before I'm in a position to male make it happen but I greatly appreciate the info.
babywag wrote:Nah, just buy a kit and rebuild TB yourself, dirt simple.
I have used Mr. Injector for cleaning in past, http://www.mrinjector.us/
No complaints, provided quick turn around.
Now there is a good place local to me, so I just use them for injectors.
Thanks again. It'll be a while before I'm in a position to male make it happen but I greatly appreciate the info.
Considering a new pair from McParts stores are ~$80/ea., and JY injectors are unknown...it's well worth it to have a set cleaned.
No guesswork, no wondering what they're actually flowing, etc.
So in a semi related question, anyone know what adapter is needed to mate the tbi to the stock 91 intake manifold? Also, in an effort to get a quick fix, could I use an adapter to slap one of my spare,new edelbrock carbs on the stock manifold??
So here's another odd question. As I have this "kit" which is complete but needing a new chip, would it be outlandish to think I could duplicate it? Maybe order the connectors online, grab a couple brain boxes from the junkyard. Already have a few spare tbi units in storage. Order extra chips and duplicate the wiring etc... is that feasible?
both my "systems" are from used JY parts w/ new bits here and there.
It has been done many times by many folks.
There are also multiple sources for new harnesses.
They whole lot from a '90-ish g20 van set me back $110 @ local pick your part.
With a wiring diagram and some time/effort thinning the harness is pretty simple.
So I was pondering how so many have issues mounting the bran box to keep it from being damaged by the elements. I remembered I have a bunch of these small ish pelican boxes I pulled out of the dumpster while stationed in Germany. Being watertight/dust proof it seems they would be perfect. Mount it under the hood, route the wires, seal the brain inside. Easy to access when needed. My question is do the brains generate any heat? Wouldn't want it to fry due to being sealed away. Thoughts?
Pics of the box.
Talked to bill about a new chip. He gave me this info as a price guide:
The custom tune is $150
CNC Adapter is $80
Timing conversion pigtail is $35
Duraspark distr conversion is $75
Data cable is $30
A couple questions about this stuff. He said for a dd that the stock 91 manifold is fine. What all is involved with the dizzy conversion and is spark control worth it? We live in Colorado so trips up/down elevation are likely. And what's this data cable he speaks of??
Distributor you'd have to ask him? Guessing modified wiring, mechanical/vacuum advance locked out, and reluctor made adjutable for proper phasing.
YES timing control is worth it. It allows the ecm to take full control and adjust like it was designed to do. If you're changing altitudes I highly recommend it.
Data cable allows you to log data, which can be used for diagnostics, but more so for proper tuning.
With good data an engine can be tuned very well and run much better.
If you want to add timing control, you might as well do the tuning yourself, too. By the time you add up the cost of paying someone else to do it, you have bought a Burn2, chip and chip adapter from Moates. Distributor mod is welding the distributor so that the centrifugal advance is locked out.
As for putting the ECM in a box, sure, you could do it. But it's just as east to stick it under the dash. There are a lot of wires that run to the ECM. Sealing that many wires would either involve an expensive connector or an ugly amount of silicone. :- )
babywag wrote:Depends on when kit was built...could be 1-wire or 3-wire.
1-wire just lookup '87-'93 GM truck w/ 5.7, 3-wire IIRC they started using them in '94?
Can buy an o2 bung from many online sources just search. Any good exhaust shop will have them as well.
How can I look at it to determine what's what? Which plug is for the O2?
Personally, I like the heated O2 sensors. They warm up quick and STAY warm. You can wire them into any existing harness that was originally wired for a 1 wire sensor. The extra 2 wires are for the heater element. One gets ground, the other gets 12V switched with the ECM. If it's a 4 wire unit, then that means the 4th wire is ground for the sensor.
I don't know if you want to mount the ECM under the hood. It's not exactly something that I'd want getting hot/cold/hot/cold all the time. It's all old school electeonics.
And I agree with Ethan, you can modify your own ECM and tune chips for about the same as getting a chip from bill. And that way you can tune it without waiting for a new one to ship in from WA.
Nikkormat wrote:I don't know if you want to mount the ECM under the hood. It's not exactly something that I'd want getting hot/cold/hot/cold all the time. It's all old school electeonics.
And I agree with Ethan, you can modify your own ECM and tune chips for about the same as getting a chip from bill. And that way you can tune it without waiting for a new one to ship in from WA.
Thanks for the advice. Honestly, I'm not friendly with computers and burning my own chips sounds like a failure waiting to happen. Gotta be honest with my skills. I am a little surprised I never heard back from Bill. *shrugs*
I'll lay the harness out on the bed in a few and see if I can identify what connection is what. May give me a better idea of what I'm dealing with.