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Nikkormat wrote:My 74 has the big tube and it fills so so slowly and you can't let go of the nozzle, it has to be held at a funny angle.
That's funny maybe it's because I custom built mine but I can set the pump and walk away.
I take pics of all the late 70's guys holding the nozzles upside down and running at a trickle while my tank fills lol!
Well it ain't just the smoke and the traffic jam that makes me the bitter fool I am But this four-wheel buggy is A-dollaring me to death.
For gas and oils and fluids and grease, And wires and tires and anti freeze....And them accessories, Well honey, that's something else.
Nikkormat wrote:First, what the heck is this adjustable rotor phasing flim-flam all about? It never came up doing mine and it runs great. And I can't find it in bills write up. Heck I drove like 300 miles before I even locked out the mechanical advance!
Second, It's been my experience that without modifications I can suck all 22 gallons out of the stock 74 tank. The biggest advantage to having an in tank pump is the noise reduction. I hate the whine of my E2000, when I do EFI on the 91 I plan to go with a Blazer aux tank and an in tank pump like Andrew's setup.
And if you have some pictures of the 78 filler neck installed, I'd absolutely love to see them. Will the 78 tank work with the early skid plate? I'm dying to see how this turns out. If I could swap to the later style tank and filler neck I'd be one happy camper.
Got it all cut and mocked up, needs a TINY bit more massaging in 2 spots to get it as flat as possible, but otherwise it's all ready for me to assemble the pump then drop it in with some gasket maker, the corn gasket, then snug it down.
The tank is damn near perfect inside, not worried about having it cleaned out. I'm honestly surprised how it looked. It was being driven regularly its whole life, and when it got parked a year or so ago it had like 3/4 tank of gas in is. I'll probably swish some solvent or something just to get it 100% clean. It has some super minor discoloration from me leaving a little bit of water in it over night without actually drying it. I dried it with heat gun last night, however, when I was done working on it.
Well it ain't just the smoke and the traffic jam that makes me the bitter fool I am But this four-wheel buggy is A-dollaring me to death.
For gas and oils and fluids and grease, And wires and tires and anti freeze....And them accessories, Well honey, that's something else.
To "correctly" modify a distr from mech adv to computer controlled the rotor phasing should be changed.
You can do it by moving the reluctor on the shaft and using a set screw or moving the base plate and fixing it in the new location.
There are after market distributors that have an adjustable rotor as a way to also set the phasing.
There is a very distinct difference in the correct phasing between the 2. Just because someone gets by with not properly converting does not mean the is the correct way to do it.
A V8 distr cap has 45* between the contacts. That's 90* of timing.
Max adv with base+mech+vac(timing table) can exceed 50* of timing under light throttle cruising.
If the phasing is incorrect the spark can crossfire to the previous contact in the cap.
One thing that helps to mask the problem is if someone swaps to the large ford distr cap to increase the physical distance between terminals.
That still doesn't make it correct.
Another thing to consider is the width of the blade on the reluctor equals about 7* of timing.
That's a lot of timing to be off.
The distr gets stabbed.
Reluctor gets lined up with the pickup and you should not need to move the distr more than a couple degrees if properly set up.......
You will also find the engine has no problem idling at 0*.
I'm likely going to modify it, in talking to the fellow who helped put this together and observing, we realized the hole that lets fuel into the tray is pointed to the back, which would allow fuel to drain out on steep inclines. Assuming I never run the tank too low that shouldnt actually be an issue but i'll probably flip the tray around so the liquid inlet is at the front.
Well it ain't just the smoke and the traffic jam that makes me the bitter fool I am But this four-wheel buggy is A-dollaring me to death.
For gas and oils and fluids and grease, And wires and tires and anti freeze....And them accessories, Well honey, that's something else.
I'll probably just flip the tray around, drill a hole in the back mounting bracket, and put a small screw in the little front mounting hole that is used for mounting it to the bracket
Well it ain't just the smoke and the traffic jam that makes me the bitter fool I am But this four-wheel buggy is A-dollaring me to death.
For gas and oils and fluids and grease, And wires and tires and anti freeze....And them accessories, Well honey, that's something else.
Do you not have enough room to put the tray sideways? That's the way its designed to go in, although it looks like it might be a tight fit for you.
I got mine all finished up today and pulled my old tank. Huge difference.
89 GW- Rebuilt 360 w RV camshaft, 4 inch Rustys spring lift, 1" body lift, dana 44HD front, 14 bolt rear 3.73's.
78 Cherokee Chief- work in progress
surfwagoneer wrote:Do you not have enough room to put the tray sideways? That's the way its designed to go in, although it looks like it might be a tight fit for you.
I got mine all finished up today and pulled my old tank. Huge difference.
absolutely no way to mount it facing sideways because there is a U shaped baffle in the tank that is only maybe 2" away from either side of the tray.
Did your kit come with the vent rollover valve or did you have to buy that separate? mine definitely didnt come with it.
Well it ain't just the smoke and the traffic jam that makes me the bitter fool I am But this four-wheel buggy is A-dollaring me to death.
For gas and oils and fluids and grease, And wires and tires and anti freeze....And them accessories, Well honey, that's something else.
[absolutely no way to mount it facing sideways because there is a U shaped baffle in the tank that is only maybe 2" away from either side of the tray.
Did your kit come with the vent rollover valve or did you have to buy that separate? mine definitely didnt come with it.[/quote]
You do have to buy the roll over valve sepratly, think it costs about $15 and is 1/4 npt. I plan on running my vent to the charcoal cannister as it does stock since there is no real way to vent it higher than the fuel fill door and have it vented exteriorly. I havn't actually threaded it in all the way, I'm going to call and make sure that there isnt enough vacume through the stock system that will interfere with its function.
89 GW- Rebuilt 360 w RV camshaft, 4 inch Rustys spring lift, 1" body lift, dana 44HD front, 14 bolt rear 3.73's.
78 Cherokee Chief- work in progress
Well I have my tank finished. I'm just using the stock vent nipple at the back.
I then went and got everything installed and wired up almost everything. Need to get one connector and need to run the fuel pump wire when I drop the tank tomorrow. Otherwise the unit is in.
I had to rearrange my whole fender of electronics and delete a bunch of stuff. It's crazy looking right now and needs cleaned up even more but this is way better than it was. When I do an MSD box and upgrade the alt I will go with some distribution box type setup.
Anyway
Well it ain't just the smoke and the traffic jam that makes me the bitter fool I am But this four-wheel buggy is A-dollaring me to death.
For gas and oils and fluids and grease, And wires and tires and anti freeze....And them accessories, Well honey, that's something else.
Also this thing needs switched 12v power that is on when cranking and when running. It says not to use the coil. Thoughts on where I can find it? Is one of the terminals on the solenoid switched constant 12v?
Well it ain't just the smoke and the traffic jam that makes me the bitter fool I am But this four-wheel buggy is A-dollaring me to death.
For gas and oils and fluids and grease, And wires and tires and anti freeze....And them accessories, Well honey, that's something else.
Nikkormat wrote:One of the small posts on the starter solenoid for cranking and the old choke wire to feed a relay.
sorry I don't follow. You saying to take power from the I terminal which gives full 12v when cranking, and then just find a regular switched power source?
i don't my old electric choke on my carb took power from one of the solenoid terminals hit that probably didn't get power when cranking.
Well it ain't just the smoke and the traffic jam that makes me the bitter fool I am But this four-wheel buggy is A-dollaring me to death.
For gas and oils and fluids and grease, And wires and tires and anti freeze....And them accessories, Well honey, that's something else.
