New Chief owner, trying to use what I've got and stay cheap

[blthomas]

Long time Jeep owner, have had several CJ's, a Commander, TJ, etc. I still have my CJ7 and Scrambler. Always wanted a FSJ, found a NT Chief over the winter and found my way here. 1st post after reading for several days, and could use advice.

My Chief is a 258/T18?/NP208 rig if I've got it right. I'm sure on the 258 part anyhow.

The rig has a Rusty's 6" with blocks in the rear. 33x12.5 on aftermarket rims, not sure on backspace but they don't stick out much.

I'd like to stick with what I have for now (considering SOA, I know it's not a well liked option on the NT axle, I've done 2 CJ's so it's not totally new to me, also doing a shackle flip to get the lift in rear without blocks), but I also don't like the idea of blocks in the rear. My goal is a reasonable blue/low black trail rig, mixed with camping, overlander, beach runner rig. I figure a lot of this is the same between the Cj's and this old Chief, yet there is enough different I should ask. Of course money is always a concern, SOA or anything else is cost right out of the gate.

With the rear already SOA, can I pull the blocks (appear to be 2"), and run without the rear sagging? Effectively the rear is 4" at that point? Do I need to pull the blocks for the type of wheeling I plan on? I've always felt like that is a poor choice for lift components. Leave alone and put money into otherstuff? It's already got extended lines, but could use better shocks IMHO.

I'm not hardcore, I'm not a skinny pedal guy, I try to pick the best lines and ease on through.

I put some caster wedges in front with new u bolts, greatly helped manners on road. Pinion angle seems tough on the front driveshaft though.

I have no major issue with trimming some, but ideally I'd like to leave it alone if I could, or just mildly cut.

I have a new set of five, 33x10.5 KM2's. They were for my Scrambler, but it's not a off road rig, just a DD/fishing canoe rig. I was thinking of mounting them on the Chief since they are skinny helping with rub and or flex issues in the fenders, and either trading away the new 33's on it, or selling and just putting some new 31's or 32's on the Scrambler.

Thoughts/advice/opinions welcome.

tl;dr version: 6" lift, 33x12.50's, mild/medium wheeler, don't want to spend money on new smaller lift, maybe keep the current tires. I dunno. I love the way it looks. Concerned over actual functionality.

[AwesomeJ10]

Welcome!

Looks like a nice rig. Have you 'wheeled it yet? I would start by 'wheeling it a few times, then come up with a build plan. It might be fine as it is.

But of course, I always recommend TBI and FF 8 lug axles!

[blthomas]

Thanks I suppose after reading my post it seems kinda convoluted. Haven't had it out yet.

I'm headed to the York show next month, and hope to be driving it regularly tomorrow or Wednesday after dialing in the carb, checking the timing, etc. Hopefully fully river and beach running by next weekend.

I suppose I'll grab a spare and get to it. Thanks again

[Cheap Hobby]

Blake is spot on. Drive it enjoy it cuss it. Then decide what you need to do and want to do. Keep a log of your dives and problems. Fix what you have to first. Some problems may go away as you fix others. You may find your want to list changes as you fix things or your want to list will line up with the have to lost.

[Renodemona]

Kind of hard to tell with the angle of the picture but it looks like you'll get some rub on the tires up front and in the rear. I'd put the 33x10.50s on. Could do some trimming too, but if the narrower 33s clear then no problem. 33s should be more than enough for the trails you are looking to get in to. I think a locker would do you good more than more lift or bigger rubber, especially if you still want some decent roadability. Just me though. Any idea what your axle ratio is? I want to say the T18 rigs were 3.31 but I'm not 100% on that.

[blthomas]

Thanks for the replies guys. I have all the paperwork for this rig from the original sticker to the hand written sales contract, it supposedly has 3.31's which I've had in CJ's and are ok with 33's IMHO.

It has a rear Detroit soft locker in it. Think that's what it is. I have the box in the Jeep at home. Was going to compress the suspension out and see what rubs/hits but had major storms last night after work. Plan on playing with it tonight.

[dreezy]

6" springs and soa us going to be one high rig.

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(We would like to keep the profanity of this board, Thanks, Tad)

[carnuck]

He said a bad word! Not as high as Tommy Chong though!

[j20brett]

For now, like others have said, wheel what you got and see how you like it. You may end up being ok with the springs/setup you have. If you dont like it later, change it up.

Dont know why it has rear blocks, should have been spring lift only in the back. Does it sit level?

[carnuck]

It does depend what your version of cheap is. Do you have access to various other vehicles for parts?

[tgreese]

If it's a NP208, and factory equipment, and if it's the 1980 in your sig, it's a T-176 transmission. Last year for the T-18 was 1979.

[shimniok]

Cool it. Run first, build later.

What are caster wedges??

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[carnuck]

[blthomas]

6" springs and soa us going to be one tall rig.

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Never intended to use the 6" lift springs and SOA. I'd run some 63's in rear with a shackle flip, and probably convert the front to SOA, using stock springs or something else.

For now, like others have said, wheel what you got and see how you like it. You may end up being ok with the springs/setup you have. If you dont like it later, change it up.

Dont know why it has rear blocks, should have been spring lift only in the back. Does it sit level?

I hear you on using the current lift. It's stiff as all hell. I spent a lot of time since the original post working on the floors, and drove it every evening at the shop I hang around, it's stiffffff. It sits with a very slight rake from front to back.

It does depend what your version of cheap is. Do you have access to various other vehicles for parts?

Couple of pic n pull, some parts rigs at the shop.

If it's a NP208, and factory equipment, and if it's the 1980 in your sig, it's a T-176 transmission. Last year for the T-18 was 1979.

Yessir sure of the 208 as I cleaned the tag. Wasn't sure of the trans didn't really investigate it further. Thank you for the info.

Cool it. Run first, build later.

What are caster wedges??

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10-4. Needs more run time now that the floors are welded out and lined. Working on it tomorrow going over all the little things since it got so busy last couple weeks.