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Starting the long process of building up a set of axles(D44/D60) from a '76 J20 to swap into my '65 Gladiator. My goal is to build it once and build it right. This will primarily be an off-road rig but will see some time on the HWY. Shooting for 5.38 gears and no bigger than 37's.

Any suggestions on selectable lockers that won't break the bank? I would rather run a welded rear or full spool but I've heard horror stories about locked rear ends and wet pavement.

Unfortunately selectable and cheap don't go together. I think the Yukon are a bit less than ARB.

That's what I was thinking. I'll check them out. Thanks Mike!

Since you live in Colorado and would probably get some wet or icy road time, I think the selectable is the way to go too. Wally had a Lockrite for years and now has a Detroit in the rear so he can get quite unruly on wet/icy roads. I would rather run open on ice and snow.

Also, 5.38s are high for 37" tires and no overdrive. What motor and trans are you running. A 4:56/4:88 would work well and the pinion would be a bit [tiny bit] stronger. Good choice regarding the J20 axles. Im running 3.73 gears in my J20 with 35s and an automatic. Its a good setup as-is but Im going to add an 1800 stall converter to it for better towing. Yes, I already have an auxillary HD trans cooler.

fulsizjeep wrote:Since you live in Colorado and would probably get some wet or icy road time, I think the selectable is the way to go too. Wally had a Lockrite for years and now has a Detroit in the rear so he can get quite unruly on wet/icy roads. I would rather run open on ice and snow.

Good words to live by. I guess the added coin is worth not wrecking! I've never driven anything smaller than a semi with a locker so this is all uncharted territory for me.

rocklaurence wrote:Also, 5.38s are high for 37" tires and no overdrive. What motor and trans are you running. A 4:56/4:88 would work well and the pinion would be a bit [tiny bit] stronger. Good choice regarding the J20 axles. Im running 3.73 gears in my J20 with 35s and an automatic. Its a good setup as-is but Im going to add an 1800 stall converter to it for better towing. Yes, I already have an auxillary HD trans cooler.

Engine is AMC 327 and trans is T18(?), definitely no overdrive! 4.88's are also on the radar, I keep flopping between them and the 5.38's. Regardless of which ratio I end up choosing it is going to be gnarly with the 6:1(or whatever it is) 1st gear in the T18 in low range!

SO what is needed to pull off the HI-Steer conversion on the front axle? The Gladiators came factory with SOA and the J20 axle will need to be converted.

The donor truck is a '76 which has the mysterious flat top knuckle, right?

Grand_Wag_85 wrote:SO what is needed to pull off the HI-Steer conversion on the front axle? The Gladiators came factory with SOA and the J20 axle will need to be converted.

The donor truck is a '76 which has the mysterious flat top knuckle, right?

Flat top thru 77.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

Send your Passenger side knuckle to a guy on Ebay. He can mill and add threads to the knuckle. He is the cheapest that Ive found. I shopped locally and the setup time required and the work was going to be twice what the Ebay guy charges.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flat-Top-Knuck ... mD&vxp=mtr

Sean,
I have a set of flat tops if you need them. One side needs drilled and tapped.

I agree with the above that 5.38's in a D44 have a TINY pinion. You would most likely be fine with 4.56's, and with no over drive will be more street worthy. I am a fan of over gearing (I have 4.56's with 33's in my J10), but you have to weigh the strength of your components. And with a T18a, you don't need as much axle gearing.

And also as mentioned, selectable lockers are way better if you have to drive in the winter. My J10 with a detroit in back is sketchy in the snow. Its rather unpredictable as it will lock and unlock suddenly.

Also, it maybe time to switch over to the Later front spring setup. Remove the Post mounts and youll have more spring options if/when you lift it.

rocklaurence wrote:Also, it maybe time to switch over to the Later front spring setup. Remove the Post mounts and youll have more spring options if/when you lift it.

Pretty much a requirement if he wants to run anything over 33’s. Otherwise you have no turning radius.

rocklaurence wrote:Also, it maybe time to switch over to the Later front spring setup. Remove the Post mounts and youll have more spring options if/when you lift it.

This never crossed my mind. I'd like to lift it about 4". Just priced the Hell Creek springs......WHOA!

When it comes to the flat tops I've read about three bolt and 4 bolt to mount the tabs. Can somebody shed some light on this?

The only high steer arms I can think of with 4 bolts are the ones intended for D60's. All the D44 ones I have seen are 3 bolt.

Stuka wrote:The only high steer arms I can think of with 4 bolts are the ones intended for D60's. All the D44 ones I have seen are 3 bolt.

I couldn't for the life of me remember the technical term!

Thanks for clearing that up.

Sean, perhaps in the front you could run a pair of RS44044 springs shackle reversed and then a set of 63 inch chevy springs in the rear for a super flexy suspension like the Toyota guys run?

Nikkormat wrote:Sean, perhaps in the front you could run a pair of RS44044 springs shackle reversed and then a set of 63 inch chevy springs in the rear for a super flexy suspension like the Toyota guys run?

I like the way you think! How much lift do those Rancho springs usually give out? Would those Chebby springs work with the post mounts?