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My rig now has a D60 'snofighter' axle from a 78 ford up front. The turning radius is not great. I got under it today with the wheel turned as far as it would go in one direction I couldn't see what was stopping the wheels from turning farther. On the D44 I used the stops to keep it from hitting the springs. Will the steering box only turn the pitman arm so far?
What arms are you using? The length of the arm REALLY impacts steering radius. The pitman arm does have a limit, if your steering stops are not hitting, then it may be an issue of the arm.
Interesting.
My D60 actually has a better turning radius than my HD44 did.
Not by much but having a 69" WMS as compared to the 67" WMS the tires don't hit the springs at full lock.
A collection of 1966 to 1986 parts. Self Inflicted Flesh Wound
Caddy425/TH400/Atlas 4spd/14B/D60/locked front and rear/Hydroassist/39.5 Irocks (Join date = Friday the 13th)
The arm on the top of the knuckle is about 9 inches from the center bolt to where the steering arms connects.
The pinion arm is about six and a half inches.
There is a couple of three inches between the spring pack and the steering. They put a spacer in to help clear it all. I went back and looked at some of my d44 pics and it was a lot closer to the spring than this is.
Here you can see the spacer on top of the knuckle (passenger side).
This give you an idea of how much 'drop' the pitman arm has.
can you put the heim joint in the 'inner' position on the passenger side knuckle? there should be a hole right about the 7" mark that would give you a little more radius.
Looks like they set you up with heim joints on the tie rod also.
Find out what size they are and get some spares (or rebuild kits if those are rebuildable).
A collection of 1966 to 1986 parts. Self Inflicted Flesh Wound
Caddy425/TH400/Atlas 4spd/14B/D60/locked front and rear/Hydroassist/39.5 Irocks (Join date = Friday the 13th)
Like Blake said, move that to the inner hole. Outer hole gives your steering box more leverage, but increases turning radius. Also notice you have a drop pitman arm, that also changes your turning radius (it's shorter, so less throw).
Oh and like Tad said, heim joints wear out faster than TREs, so carry spares.
Totally makes sense to try a closer hole. I will give that a shot.
The told me the heim joins would wear faster but that they were stronger. I don't put a lot of miles on the jeep so I figured it was worth the trade off. I will pick up some spares.
will e wrote:. I got under it today with the wheel turned as far as it would go in one direction
does it turn super sharp to the right? Shorten drag link and reposition steering wheel. Or, find center of left turn and right turn and adjust drag link accordingly.
68 Gladiator- RIP
78 Wagoneer- 401, D60/70, 203/205, 38's, Dual PS pump, Hydroboost, OBA, OBW, bla bla bla.
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Seems the same in both directions. I will do some experiments. Then I will move it closer to the knuckle and see what that does. My old axle is at the shop but looking at a picture I think the steering was closer to the center of the axle. On that axle I used the stops to keep from hitting the springs
The drop pitman arm isn't off a XJ or something? FSJs have the longest pitman arm.
I would use whatever hole on the high steer thats the same distance from the axle center line as the tie rod ends (since thats what stock equivalent would be.
I had to go back to a stock one when I went D60 with full high-steer.
DPA actually put the drag link lower that the tie rod so not the same issue.
I just kicked that old pitman arm across the patio a few days ago.
I will try to remember to measure it.
A collection of 1966 to 1986 parts. Self Inflicted Flesh Wound
Caddy425/TH400/Atlas 4spd/14B/D60/locked front and rear/Hydroassist/39.5 Irocks (Join date = Friday the 13th)