FastEddie J10 restomod

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sonoraed
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by sonoraed »

Nikkormat wrote:Cool! Hopefully it rides nice.
me too like to get on the road and keep up with traffic without my getting my teeth rattled out, I think it would be cool to see a truck like this perform and handle,will never be BMW level but at least maybe Tundra level of performance,we will see :shock:
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Tatsadasayago
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by Tatsadasayago »

It's got a Dana 20. Of course it will out-Tundra a Tundra :P
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by sonoraed »

ImageImage

Back at it trying to find a wheel that will work, made the mistake of installing WillWood calipers so now the 15x8 wheels won’t clear the calipers, picture is of a 17x9 MT Classic III biggest problem with this wheel is the 4.5” backspacing only gives me 1.5” from rim lip to spring, only wheel I can find with 3.5” is a Pro Comp 17x9 black steel wheel, with all the wheels made today sure thought it would easier!


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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by sonoraed »

ImageImage

Back at it trying to find a wheel that will work, made the mistake of installing WillWood calipers so now the 15x8 wheels won’t clear the calipers, picture is of a 17x9 MT Classic III biggest problem with this wheel is the 4.5” backspacing only gives me 1.5” from rim lip to spring, only wheel I can find with 3.5” is a Pro Comp 17x9 black steel wheel, with all the wheels made today sure thought it would easier!


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Stuka
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by Stuka »

Most vehicles today come with ~6.5" BS stock, so going to 4.5" pushes the wheel out quite a bit for them. And as we both know, back spacing is a major issue on J-trucks in back. Only fix there is to move the spring under the frame.

Those brakes will stop the truck way better, but it does limit your wheel choices.

BTW, the front shocks look to be a bit long?
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by sonoraed »

the shocks do look a little long, had to remake the lower mount to get the right angle may have to make it again yeah!
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az chip
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by az chip »

Might have to go with a specialty wheel that is made for you.
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by sonoraed »

az chip wrote:Might have to go with a specialty wheel that is made for you.
Boy I hope not might just go back to stock calipers and use the wheels i've had for 20 years!!!
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by Stuka »

Well, as much as I hate them, spacers will solve the problem. Although I think the smallest spacers like 1.5”.
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by HeavyMetalThunder_81 »

I've seen far too many spacers fail to ever allow them on any of my vehicles, although, I know a lot of the JK crowd claim success with them. If you must run a spacer buy the kind that bolts on then wheel studs and then has its own set of wheel studs for the wheel. The kind that just sandwich between the wheel and the hub using the same studs are just asking for trouble IMHO.
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Stuka
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by Stuka »

In order for wheel spacers to be safe they need to be hub centric, and have to be bolted in place. And then it has its own studs for the wheel, like HeavyMetal mentions above.

The plane spacer style put a LOT of stress on the wheel studs.

Such as these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tgi- ... /overview/ (Although I believe these have the wrong bore size to be hub centric)

And I do know many JK owners than run Spyder Trax spacers, but they are hub centric with grade 8 hardware.
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by tedlovesjeeps71 »

I agree with you guys. Was just offering an example that they are technically available in less than 1.5"s.


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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by REDONE »

I have spacers in the back of money badger. I'm not for certain, but I think 3/4" is the best one to go with. I don't remember the exact measurements, but 5/8" was the thinnest that had their own studs, didn't have much meat for the studs on either the axle flange or the new wheel studs. On the 3/4" spacers, the new wheel studs had at least half an inch of meat for the studs to press into and the nuts on the axle flange studs were compressing on at least 3/8". I don't blame you at all if you avoid spacers all together, but the were the right solution for me for the time being. Eventually I'll build a wider axle (some kind of full float hybrid) or inboard the springs, but for now the spacers work.
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by Nikkormat »

You can order these in 3.5" backspacing and I know they're available in 6x5.5 http://www.mhtwheels.com/indy-u101-truck-w-5493.htm

And then you get slot mags that you could even put a stock center cap on. I see no reason not to!
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by REDONE »

Nikkormat wrote:You can order these in 3.5" backspacing and I know they're available in 6x5.5 http://www.mhtwheels.com/indy-u101-truck-w-5493.htm

And then you get slot mags that you could even put a stock center cap on. I see no reason not to!
Unless you have a problem with a big red white and blue "U.S." slapped on a CHINESE wheel.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by Stuka »

REDONE wrote:
Nikkormat wrote:You can order these in 3.5" backspacing and I know they're available in 6x5.5 http://www.mhtwheels.com/indy-u101-truck-w-5493.htm

And then you get slot mags that you could even put a stock center cap on. I see no reason not to!
Unless you have a problem with a big red white and blue "U.S." slapped on a CHINESE wheel.
Good luck finding any alloy wheel (that is not CNC Machined) that is made in America, because there are none. Period. Even AEV that tries to make everything in the US outright says "We cannot get american made alloy wheels".
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by REDONE »

My beef is with the misleading label, not the country of origin. That same company (MHT) has two other series of alloy wheels they claim are US made, but not the U101. Another point of contention (social and economic, not political) is the price manipulation. That wheels is probably $50 in materials, $50 in tooling/energy/facility overhead, and $35 in transportation/tax/tariff just to put the product on US soil. So how can they sell it at a $13 loss ($135-$122=-$13) without even PAYING the people who made it? Did the labor pay $13 for the privilege of making it, just so MHT could break even at $0 profit? It doesn't add up.

The "Truckin' Series" and "Pro Touring Series" alloys are claimed to be US made, as are the steelies they produce.

Back to the OP though, I'd ditch the fancy calipers. I mean, brake fade will come from the rotors heating up regardless of what is pinching them, and there's ways to increase the line pressure if you need more squeeze to lock them up. Another thing I've found, is that 15" tires are significantly cheaper than 17" tires. As much as $200 a set for regular MTs, more for fancy tires. Enough that the difference pays for a matching spare for the tires I like.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
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tedlovesjeeps71
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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by tedlovesjeeps71 »

I thought 17s were the new 15?


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Re: FastEddie J10 restomod

Post by SJTD »

So howcome 17" tires are more spensive when there's less material in them?

OK, so the bead is a little longer but that's it.
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