Push on, Titania

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

No, couldn't be. I had the tires replaced last year and this started this year after I replaced the transfer case.

[Gumby]

U joints seem to be good. I put it on jack stands and with the wheel turned to lock I rotated the wheels and they didnt bind, pop, or show any play. The hunt continues

No problem. The day would have been much longer for the both of us

Well if the weights are out you may want to take a closer look at the U-joints, being on stands there is really no pressure on them and may not cause them to bind. I had a problem with my truck years ago similar to yours, felt like I was in 4X4 when I turned. took it to a shop and they said the joints had to be replaced, problem solved. Could not diagnose that even on a lift because there was no resistance.

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

Good point. I forgot about them being under weight. Well I have replacement axle joints. I'll find time to throw them on and see if that helps. Oh and I changed my power steering fluid last night. Haven't tested it yet because I need coolant and tranny fluid.

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

Today I replaced both front axle Ujoints and wheel bearings on the other front wheel. So besides the drivers side ball joints my front wheels are fairly solid. Immediate findings were that the clunking/thunking/popping was severely reduced but not completely. Will this issue go away completely once the Ujoints are broken in? If not I was thinking to add a little bit of limited slip additive to the transfer case.

to go into further detail I could barely turn without the clunking and the even slight turns held for a long time started binding. Now I can take normal turns and hold turns for ,from what I can tell, much longer. It is only sharper turns like trying to get into a parking space that it comes back.

All in all mostly successful day. I learned a bit and have new parts = confidence.

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

Before I do something stupid. I have the quadratrac. Is it okay to add a little bit of limited slip additive to the TCL-1 fluid? The additive says not to but I assume it is refering to the later quadratracs. Is there any more things I can check to completely get rid of the clunking? I haven't replaced to driver side ball joints and will in the near future but they have no play currently and the only thing that sticks out is the rubber cover on the top ball joint is all deformed. What about TREs?

In the mean time I'm going to install the new motor mounts and do a little rust killing.

One more thing. <-(Uncle) I've decided that I want to do a diesel conversion in a year or two. I'll see what I can afford. I've still got a ton of research to do.

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

Steering shaft has a fair amount of play in it. So I'll need to replace that. That should get rid of the pop in the wheel when turning/sitting still and reduce play. No idea if this will solve the clunking when turning/moving. I'll try and get the motor mounts in as quick as possible and see if that helps. then I'll swap out the remaining ball joints and see if that helps. Or vice versa. Whatever I have time for first. Still stuck on the back burner. Got my anniversary this weekend and won't be suprised f I find myself helping my dad with replace siding on the grandparents house next weekend. Can't wait until I start the rebuild on my dads toyota engine. I'd have even less free time.

[Mrpatatomoto]

Am I the only one that thinks a Mag Light and Fire Extinguisher above my head seems like a horrible idea?

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

Pay attention folks because what I am about to tell you could have been easily avoided. I got her up in the air and with some professional help determined that one of the u joints on the front drive shaft was bad. Now I rebuilt the front DS a few months ago because I suspected that the DC joint was the culprit but neglected to replace that one u joint. Then I forgot about it. Go ahead, laugh. I did too. Come next week I'll get it fixed.

On a more important note Mr potato man. Yes they could come lose but I have an idea to keep it safe. Thinking a cage with PVC insulator on it to reduce clatter and provide some headbump insurance. Then have the whole thing on a hinge that locks to the roof. Just an idea

[Atla]

Well, I'm always leery of loose objects flying about and bonking me.

Anywho, here's an idea from the TJ world.




It's secure, low mounted, and you can still grab it if you're trapped in the seat. AND, the seat still slides.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/mount ... post654129

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

That would be the best idea but I kinda wanted it where anybody could reach it. plus if my feet are on fire I'm screwed.

maybe I can rig a mount on the back of the center console

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

Dammit. my new centering yoke for the DC joint is ruined. Needle bearings are trashed. $$$wasted Now I have to order a new one. Good thing I checked before putting the U joint on.

[COLORADOCRAWLER]

Just a thought on your popping/clunking while turning. You could have spring eye bushings that are shot, thus allowing the springs to shift and contact the hangers, or you possibly have a loose spring hanger. Check them out really good and make sure that is not your problem. I would think that if you crank the steering wheel back and forth (with an assistant and wheels on the ground) you should be able to see if there is any unwanted movement there. Keep your hands clear of any pinch points while doing this and you can feel around and find where the popping is coming from as your hands/ears move closer to it. Also, if you still have your track bar installed, look at where it attaches at both ends, they are prone to getting loose and sloppy and wallowing out their mount holes causing aforementioned noises.

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

Just a thought on your popping/clunking while turning. You could have spring eye bushings that are shot, thus allowing the springs to shift and contact the hangers, or you possibly have a loose spring hanger. Check them out really good and make sure that is not your problem. I would think that if you crank the steering wheel back and forth (with an assistant and wheels on the ground) you should be able to see if there is any unwanted movement there. Keep your hands clear of any pinch points while doing this and you can feel around and find where the popping is coming from as your hands/ears move closer to it. Also, if you still have your track bar installed, look at where it attaches at both ends, they are prone to getting loose and sloppy and wallowing out their mount holes causing aforementioned noises.

Can't I just upgrade the whole front end? Thanks for the tip. I appreciate the input. I'm still to clean behind the ears to be able to efficiently diagnose a problem. If it isn't the front Driveshaft I will check for that. or just check for it regardless. Everything is worn out on Titania. Luckily once the Front DS was removed the clunk was gone.

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

Got my front DS back together and bolted in but unfortunately it didn't really change anything. This build thread has turned into a big truckin mother mess. Perhaps I should nickname Titania, House. Since the problems on it are consistently undiagnosable. But I digress it will be solved in time. I'm just getting frustrated that I haven't been able to fully enjoy driving her yet. A guy at the auto hobby shop has been more then willing to advise and help when I ask/need it. I owe him some beers after today. He let me stay 2 hours after closing so I could get the bolts for the mounts back in. Didn't have time to tighten everything down but I already feel an improvement in how much she shakes. Next week or when I have time I will probably open up my old QT and see if it is usable. AAMCO said it was trashed but they could be wrong. The guys at the shop don't have a grand opinion of them. If it is I swap the chains and put it back in since all this started when I installed the one I'm using now. Then I can open up the other and see if it checks out.

In brighter news I finally got around to replacing the aging motor mounts. and I removed the mirrors to do a little rust hunting. They weren't bad but the ends where the bolts go through were dark and it was starting to infect the door. Some brisk sanding and a spread of Loctite navel jelly rust dissolver cleaned them right up. Pictures later when it isn't so late.

Also a hearty farewell for Major General Herald Greene who was killed in an attack on an Afghanistan training camp tuesday. Prayers for the 7 soldiers who were also wounded.

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

Dug up some pictures from before I fixed the floorboards. Didn't get any during the process but you all know how that goes.

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

This was all because nobody ever replaced the weatherstripping on the windows and doors and the giant hole in the firewall from when the heater was removed.

I still have a few holes to patch. A big hole in the corner of the rear seat passenger side wher the new panels didn't cover. Have to cut a custom piece to fit in there. Until then don't drop anything you want to keep. Where the panel meets the firewall needs a little metal to make a solid connection.

and a hole on the tranny hump that I plan to patch. Probably with fiber glass or cut and place a small rectangle and hammer into shape.

There is also a small hole on the rear wheel well that I can peak through. It's not rusted. Just looks like someone stabbed the metal.

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

Getting pretty fed up with this problem. :/

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

Just a thought on your popping/clunking while turning. You could have spring eye bushings that are shot, thus allowing the springs to shift and contact the hangers, or you possibly have a loose spring hanger. Check them out really good and make sure that is not your problem. I would think that if you crank the steering wheel back and forth (with an assistant and wheels on the ground) you should be able to see if there is any unwanted movement there. Keep your hands clear of any pinch points while doing this and you can feel around and find where the popping is coming from as your hands/ears move closer to it. Also, if you still have your track bar installed, look at where it attaches at both ends, they are prone to getting loose and sloppy and wallowing out their mount holes causing aforementioned noises.

No luck. Everything feels secure. I'll keep coming back and checking though just to be sure.
Had it up on the lift again with it in gear and was told the ujoints are moving smoothly but the axle shaft is moving laterally just slightly like if the axle shaft was bent. This would explain how the noise increases with speed but is unnoticeable when going closer to 30MPH. I also don't know why if this was a culprit it would only cause the noise when turning. I can feel something shifting in an oblong rotation when it's in the air so it does and does not make sense. It doesn't do it with the front DS removed either. lastly with the Quadratrac when I had it in the air in drive at idle the front tires spin but the back don't. Atleast not the drivers side. I couldn't see the passenger side. I assume this is because none of the tires are getting traction.

Now for some whining. I am pretty much fed up with this. It shouldn't be that hard to fix but it seems like everything is going wrong and it's disheartening and discouraging when you are trying to make it drivable. Right now I have absolutely zero confidence in my jeep and that is BS. I can barely turn the darn thing without feeling like I am going to break something and not be able to afford to fix it and be forced to sell. and I don't want that. I love this jeep. It's my first vehicle and I bought it with my own money. My first big purchase. So I'd like to say to all you guys, THANK YOU for the help. I know I haven't been very clear on whats happening and it takes forever for me to get time to work on it but you guys have helped a lot. You are inspiring and I will continue to strive on until I can wheel with you guys. Maybe next year at the pace I'm going.

[TitaniaDieKrieger]

If anybody is wondering why this thread is titled "Push on, Titania" It's because One I have had to push her quite a few times and two because we are both too stubborn to give up.

[ProTouring442]

You say it's "popping" when you turn. How many "pops?" Are you certain it's a rotational issue? Or does it only pop a couple times, then stop?

Do you have a posi in either differential?