Glad you figured it out. It may be worthwhile to do a voltage drop test on the battery/cables, etc. See if you can find a why.Lumpskie wrote:Just got home. You guys were right. I turned the key to the on position... Voltage showed 8V. Hooked up charger to jump and it gave a half hearted turn over. Charging now.
Thanks for the help!
tedlovesjeeps71 wrote:Glad you figured it out. It may be worthwhile to do a voltage drop test on the battery/cables, etc. See if you can find a why.Lumpskie wrote:Just got home. You guys were right. I turned the key to the on position... Voltage showed 8V. Hooked up charger to jump and it gave a half hearted turn over. Charging now.
Thanks for the help!
I don't think so. Unless all the zinc went to the top of the gears and scored the plate.Lumpskie wrote:So, my wife was driving the Wagoneer around and noticed that the oil pressure was low. I did a little test and pressure is normal when cold but drops off more than usual once heated up. (This may have happened to be before... I can't really remember) Anyway, the only thing different than typical is that I used Lucas ZDDP additive in my oil change. Could that be contributing to lower than typical oil pressure?
I tried an oil only change with ZDDP, just draining the filter and replacing. (just in case oil was actually the problem) It improved slightly but still not where it should be. Last night, I swapped the filter out for a new one but didn't get a chance to drive it. If that doesn't make a difference, I'll just go new oil and filter, no ZDDP and see what that does. I should have read your post earlier!az chip wrote:
I don't think so. Unless all the zinc went to the top of the gears and scored the plate.
Try an oil change without the ZDDP.
That's good to know. I wonder if that may be a contributor... After swapping the filter, pressure seems to be close to normal. But Im naturally suspicious of easy fixes. I'll update after putting more miles on it.az chip wrote:The oil pressure sender can get gummed up. Mine did.
I took the whole thing apart. My 360 has the oil pressure switch for the carb choke as well. That had solidified oil inside so it was always on. The oil pressure sender replacement was a pain. I went through three senders before I found a combination that would fit my original wiring and not fail after one run.Lumpskie wrote:That's good to know. I wonder if that may be a contributor... After swapping the filter, pressure seems to be close to normal. But Im naturally suspicious of easy fixes. I'll update after putting more miles on it.az chip wrote:The oil pressure sender can get gummed up. Mine did.
That doesn't sound like a fun project to dig into at all!az chip wrote:
I took the whole thing apart. My 360 has the oil pressure switch for the carb choke as well. That had solidified oil inside so it was always on. The oil pressure sender replacement was a pain. I went through three senders before I found a combination that would fit my original wiring and not fail after one run.
It did. The oil was much thinner than expected. It was Mobile 1 full synthetic with the Lucas ZDDP additive.Nikkormat wrote:Oil can break down in weird ways too. Could.have lost viscosity.
I'm just running Mobile 1 synthetic 10 w30, because it's what I usually have in the garage. My oil pressure is usually 60 cold idle then just above the bottom line warm. (10 or 20?) Doddling around town, I usually keep about 40psi while I usually see 50psi on the freeway. I don't know if that's good or not.Nikkormat wrote:I've had that happen a few times. Usually after I've had to mix oils. Say, rotella full synthetic with gas station dino oil.
Maybe try running just a diesel oil without an addative? I don't know what weight you're running now or what your oil pressure looks like but my Cherokee is very very happy with 5w40.
About on par with mine. 50psi cold, about 15-20 warm at idle, 40 on the road. 148K miles. Havoline 10w40 and Lucas. I tend to use Havoline in engines of older vintage (the 283 in my 64 gets 10w-30). My 4th gen T/A with the LS runs Mobil 5W30 synthetic. It does great in LS motors.Lumpskie wrote:I'm just running Mobile 1 synthetic 10 w30, because it's what I usually have in the garage. My oil pressure is usually 60 cold idle then just above the bottom line warm. (10 or 20?) Doddling around town, I usually keep about 40psi while I usually see 50psi on the freeway. I don't know if that's good or not.Nikkormat wrote:I've had that happen a few times. Usually after I've had to mix oils. Say, rotella full synthetic with gas station dino oil.
Maybe try running just a diesel oil without an addative? I don't know what weight you're running now or what your oil pressure looks like but my Cherokee is very very happy with 5w40.
So, it sounds like I'm in the normal ball park. I think this oil gets really thin when it gets warm. I'm used to seeing 50psi and I'm seeing just less than 40 on the road. Maybe I'll try that Havoline for my next oil change...dodgerammit wrote:
About on par with mine. 50psi cold, about 15-20 warm at idle, 40 on the road. 148K miles. Havoline 10w40 and Lucas. I tend to use Havoline in engines of older vintage (the 283 in my 64 gets 10w-30). My 4th gen T/A with the LS runs Mobil 5W30 synthetic. It does great in LS motors.
I'd say it has to do with tolerances and pump more than anything. My T/A (and my previous one) both hold 40-60 at idle, then 60-80 at highway speed. I know rotella diesel oils are thicker than normal weight. Personally, I go for the basic rule of thumb 10psi per 1000rpm. Anything equal or above is okay. I wouldn't sweat it too much if it isn't burning oil too badly or unless the pressure gets really low. Plus, factory gauges can be iffy. Maybe hook a mechanical under the hood temporarily and see what the actual readings are.Lumpskie wrote:So, it sounds like I'm in the normal ball park. I think this oil gets really thin when it gets warm. I'm used to seeing 50psi and I'm seeing just less than 40 on the road. Maybe I'll try that Havoline for my next oil change...dodgerammit wrote:
About on par with mine. 50psi cold, about 15-20 warm at idle, 40 on the road. 148K miles. Havoline 10w40 and Lucas. I tend to use Havoline in engines of older vintage (the 283 in my 64 gets 10w-30). My 4th gen T/A with the LS runs Mobil 5W30 synthetic. It does great in LS motors.