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I used Monstaliner on the inside tub of my 2001 TJ, it's held up about 99% so far after a couple of years. Had a couple small spots that were probably due to bad prep.
Good stuff.
~Atla. (I'm just here for the pictures)
1983 J-10
2001 TJ
Atla wrote:I used Monstaliner on the inside tub of my 2001 TJ, it's held up about 99% so far after a couple of years. Had a couple small spots that were probably due to bad prep.
Good to hear that you have had good luck with it. I am very happy with how it went on - rolled and sprayed - and am very happy with how it looks. I hope that the durability is there. My one worry is that I am going to be missing the sound and heat insulation from the carpets.
I made the journey back to my parents house to do some electrical work. My new connector for the transfer case looks like it's going to work out fine. And I think the chevy pickup brake light switch is going to work out for the torque converter switch.
Here's the new brake light switch above the original GW switch
Here it is installed. The wiring connector from the GW fit right onto the new switch. Then I used a pink jumper from the brake light connector to one of the cruise control (torque converter) poles. The other pole for the torque converter switch is wired back to the PCM. (I am hoping that the pink wire is the keyed on wire.... i couldn't power it up to check)
I also planned out what I need to do for the next step of the electrical. I am going to run the Silverado starter cable directly to the battery since the battery in the GW is on the same side of the engine. Then I am going to run a 4 awg cable from the battery under the block to the drivers side of the engine where I will pick up the alternator (8 gauge fusible link) and feed the PCM and the three fuse panel inputs. I am going to use 40 amp shortstop breakers rather than fusible links into the fuse panel. That sound about right?
Last edited by weezy on Wed Mar 05, 2014 3:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
There is a nipple (red arrow passenger side of engine) that you can break the tab off of and hook your vacuum canister to for your HVAC controls. Also, if you are not going to run emissions, you can delete the EGR solenoid and plug the intake manifold with a rubber expandable freeze plug (1 3/8 to 1 1/2" if I remember correctly). Dorman makes them and you can pick one up at most parts stores. You just have to remove the 2 bolt flange from the header end of the EGR solenoid tubing and weld the hole shut and reinstall on the header or if you are using aftermarket headers, buy ones without the EGR port. I chose to delete the charcoal canister purge solenoid on top of the manifold and plugged the hole with an aluminum plug and some RTV.
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-Rick
87' GW 5.3/4l60E/NP241C, Dakota Digital dash, high steer, 31's, still needs a bigfoot gas pedal to tie it all together.
90' YJ 3 link coils front, 4 link double triangulated coils rear, D44s, ARBs, 4.56, 35's
Spent a day on the Waggy recently... here are a few updated pics.
Fusible links were replaced with 40amp auto reset circuit breakers..
The pump has been reinstalled in franken-tank and it's ready to be strapped into the truck.
I installed dual (one pusher, one puller) 14 inch electric fans with the relay switched by the PCM. We decided to worry about A/C in the future. I am curious what other swappers have been using for condensers though. Should we try to stay with GM for compressor/condenser compatibility? Does that matter?
I would love to know the same information on the AC setup. Can I just connect the hoses to my new GM Vortec compressor and run it with the Jeep/AMC original condenser/drier? This would be the easiest scenario. Also I figured I could install high pressure and low pressure switches for the AC compressor power wire so it would kick off if the pressure was too high, or it wouldn't kick on at all if the Freon was gone. Thoughts?
1982 Wagoneer Limited 5.3L Vortec 4L60E swap - finished/restored - sold - bought back - sold again
1979 Wagoneer 360 TH400 1339 QT - built into perfect daily driver - sold
1981 J10 Sportside Honcho - finished/restored - sold
1979 Cherokee Golden Eagle - 5.3L Vortec 6L80E swap - finished/restored - sold
1967 Super Wagoneer - sold, too much work
1978 J10 Golden Eagle - finished/restored - sold
1962 Rambler Classic Cross Country Wagon - current project, wife's daily driver - she'll never let me sell it
I have another drive shaft question. The distance between my t-case and my differential is 37 inches and I have a 10 inch drop from T-case to differential. The drive shaft shop is suggesting that I should go with a CV joint rather than a standard U-joint. any thoughts on that?
1988 Grand Wagoneer, , 6" on 33x12.5 BFG M/Ts & Mickey Thompson Classic wheels
Currently undergoing a 5.3/6L80E/NP241C swap!
You can view my Build/Work In Progress thread by clicking HERE!
No... it has a 4 inch Rusty's lift. To be a bit more thorough.... the doors, seats, gas tank, fenders and hood are not on the vehicle right now. So maybe it settles in to a 9 inch drop. My t-case is about 24 inches from the floor and the differential is about 14 inches.
But that is without any droop or flex, normal riding height? Seems like a lot but now that I think about it mine is probably similar
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
Last edited by ShawnQ on Wed Mar 26, 2014 12:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1988 Grand Wagoneer, , 6" on 33x12.5 BFG M/Ts & Mickey Thompson Classic wheels
Currently undergoing a 5.3/6L80E/NP241C swap!
You can view my Build/Work In Progress thread by clicking HERE!
Just to complete the conversation (I hope) on the drive shaft....
I decided to order and angle finder to see if I had any pitch at the transmission output and at the rear differential yoke. I figured that if my transmission was pitched downward and differential pitched upward, then the operating angle of the drive shaft would not nearly be as severe as the simple trigonometry suggested by the measurements posted above (16-17 degrees). Luckily, I had 6 degrees of downward pitch at the transmission and 7 degrees of upward tilt at the rear differential yoke (close enough to be considered equal but opposite). Since there will be only be 9 or 10 degrees (16-6) of "strain" on the drive shaft, I decided to go ahead and order a regular slip yoke and drive shaft with U-joints and not go down the CV route.
Since my radiator cap and fittings are now on the passenger side of the vehicle, I thought it would make sense to move the overflow reservoir to the passenger side as well. I have plenty of room on the passenger side fender now that the starter relay, etc. is gone. Does anyone have an idea of what tank might work in that location?
Moving the tank will also give me the room to direct the air fillter/intake toward the driver side. There's a few holes in the radiator support where the stock overflow reservoir was located which will give me a bit of fresh air flow to the intake.