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"After years of being paranoid about my Jeep’s temp going towards that 220F mark, I’m realizing that if it was real problem, Jeep engineers would have painted that area RED." - FSJ Guy
"After years of being paranoid about my Jeep’s temp going towards that 220F mark, I’m realizing that if it was real problem, Jeep engineers would have painted that area RED." - FSJ Guy
that sure is nice If I had a shop and all the tools, I would find
a 360 and rebuild it. Gut it and fix everything. Then paint it and get
it ready to go in my wag. After installing it, I would repeat the
process with the one I took out:)
That way I would always have a spare if anything happened:)
"After years of being paranoid about my Jeep’s temp going towards that 220F mark, I’m realizing that if it was real problem, Jeep engineers would have painted that area RED." - FSJ Guy
Ok I need some help here. I don't have a transfer case yet, I planned on getting an NP241c simply for ease of install. I can upgrade to something better later on. Can someone school me on the NP241c? I know the "c" is chevy but I cannot find any information on what makes, models and years these came. Spline counts, etc. I do know I will need to install an SYE kit. I was hoping to find a Chevy drivetrain database like we have here or a wiki page but I havent found anything yet.
"After years of being paranoid about my Jeep’s temp going towards that 220F mark, I’m realizing that if it was real problem, Jeep engineers would have painted that area RED." - FSJ Guy
1980 Cherokee wrangled & mangled
MSD complete system
Eddy intake
Holley 650
Comp cam 270H
4" Rusty's
Ramsey 12K winch
208
Built to drive not sit in the garage.
No longer strangled. I didn't build it for anyone else.
If you can't improve it why waste your time?
ok so you will want a NP241C with a 27 spline input shaft. these came in chevy/gmc 1500 pickups and half ton suburbans from '88 to the early 2000's. the NP241C also came with a 32 spline input shaft, these came behind the 4L80E. for a 4L60E you want the 27 spline version. somewhere in the mid '90's they changed the tailhousing bolt pattern on the 4L60E, from 4 bolts to 6. this has no effect on what transfercase you want. you just need to make shure you get the right adapter.
"After years of being paranoid about my Jeep’s temp going towards that 220F mark, I’m realizing that if it was real problem, Jeep engineers would have painted that area RED." - FSJ Guy
The NP241C is definitely the way to go. It bolts right up and are plenty strong for normal use. There is good availability on parts/upgrades, and it has the necessary electronic VSS mounted to the tail housing to work your speedo and cruise if you choose to hook it up. You just have to wire up the 4x4 wire from the PCM (Gray with black tracer if I remember correctly) to a switch that goes to ground to tell the PCM you are in 4-low or your tranny won't shift right when you are in low-range. Pulled mine from a 97 Suburban. Floor shift, Electronic Speed Sensor, Driver side output. If you go this route, you can pull the whole Chevy floor shifter assembly, cut a hole in the side of your tranny tunnel and screw it down. Make sure you get the little plate from the backside to use as a template to cut your hole. I only used the lower portion of the 2 piece backing plate and it's solid. The shifter rod needed shortened in order to put the shifter where it needed to be. You can either run a die down on it and extend the existing threads or do what I did and cut a section out and weld the rod back together. They are a dime a dozen at the junk yard, just have to find one that is tight and not leaking and you can search around for the proper color cover to match you interior. So far I've seen tan, blue, gray, and maroon. I'm betting there is a black one as well, but haven't run across one yet. The floor shifter knobs where 2 styles: round mushroom shaped, and one that tear-drops forward. I have to change the front output yoke to one that will work with our front drive shaft CV joint. The OEM Chevy one is a larger U-joint and they didn't run a CV joint. I pulled the OEM flag shifter out, trimmed the lip down on the metal-thru grommet, and found a washer that press fit into it really tight then welded the hole shut in the washer (it's easier to weld than the thin grommet material).
-Rick
87' GW 5.3/4l60E/NP241C, Dakota Digital dash, high steer, 31's, still needs a bigfoot gas pedal to tie it all together.
90' YJ 3 link coils front, 4 link double triangulated coils rear, D44s, ARBs, 4.56, 35's
should be a NP241, but it dosn't look to be a floor shift one. some came with an electronic shifter on the dash, you need one with the floor shift. they are more common in trucks, think bench seats. my floor shifter i pulled out of a 90's pickup in the junkyard.
Austin, do you think I should get a tranny from the same vehicle as the transfer case or go with a newer tranny? Im looking for the 6-bolt versions, correct?
"After years of being paranoid about my Jeep’s temp going towards that 220F mark, I’m realizing that if it was real problem, Jeep engineers would have painted that area RED." - FSJ Guy
it would be nice to get a tranny and transfer case from the same vehicle just so you have all the hardware. if you don't just try and get a tranny with the adapter.