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Unfortunately when I went to crank motor found out the starter motor is shot and won't engage the flexplate. So I need a new one and that wasn't in the plans for the weekend. Will have to wait for next time. A little disappointed I wanted to hear it run but oh well.
Couple shots of truck at end of weekend work.
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Matt
1978 J10 5.3L/700r4/QT swap in progress.....
37x14.50R15 TOYO Open Country MT
4.56 Gears
6" BJs springs w/ BJs offroad shackles in front & 2" blocks in rear to level.
3" body lift
msh227 wrote:Unfortunately when I went to crank motor found out the starter motor is shot and won't engage the flexplate. So I need a new one and that wasn't in the plans for the weekend. Will have to wait for next time. A little disappointed I wanted to hear it run but oh well.
I do have one question for you guys regarding replacement gauges. I plan on replacing my gauges at some point but not right away. I bought sensors for the temp and oil pressure that I will incorporate with the 5.3L and the stock Jeep gauges (read about this on Novak), and my speedo will work since I have the QT with the speedo cable. What I'm curious about is when I go to buy new gauges are they plug and play with existing wiring or do I need to rewire the new gauges from the PCM? Can someone point me in the direction of a website so I can do some research? Thanks.
Matt
1978 J10 5.3L/700r4/QT swap in progress.....
37x14.50R15 TOYO Open Country MT
4.56 Gears
6" BJs springs w/ BJs offroad shackles in front & 2" blocks in rear to level.
3" body lift
Search CAN-BUS gauges by Speedhut. I think dakota digital uses them also. Really easy, plug right into your OBD port and uses all of the engine data. Kind of pricey but the simplicity may be worth it.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
1988 Grand Wagoneer, , 6" on 33x12.5 BFG M/Ts & Mickey Thompson Classic wheels
Currently undergoing a 5.3/6L80E/NP241C swap!
You can view my Build/Work In Progress thread by clicking HERE!
Thanks. I will take a peak at that, so with that technology when you need to scan the PCM you just unplug your gauges from OBD2 port, perform scan, re-plug gauges into OBD2 port and go about business?
Seems pretty simple and quite possibly worth the extra cost depending what that cost is.
Matt
1978 J10 5.3L/700r4/QT swap in progress.....
37x14.50R15 TOYO Open Country MT
4.56 Gears
6" BJs springs w/ BJs offroad shackles in front & 2" blocks in rear to level.
3" body lift
Yes, or i read they make adapters that allow two plugs into the same obd. Like a splitter. I like the dakota digital, but it looks a little too 'Tron' too me. Old school digital. I think a set of vintage faced round gauges from speedhut would be nice. Easy enough to adapt to any dash - especially since you already have round gauges (mine are square)
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
1988 Grand Wagoneer, , 6" on 33x12.5 BFG M/Ts & Mickey Thompson Classic wheels
Currently undergoing a 5.3/6L80E/NP241C swap!
You can view my Build/Work In Progress thread by clicking HERE!
I completely agree with you. I'm not a fan of the digital dash, I don't even like the digital speedo display on Honda Civics, I like looking at gauges.
The speedhut gauges are nice since you can make them fully custom and they offer all gauges within 3 large circular gauges. Oh and their price seems pretty fair compared to other manufacturers.
Matt
1978 J10 5.3L/700r4/QT swap in progress.....
37x14.50R15 TOYO Open Country MT
4.56 Gears
6" BJs springs w/ BJs offroad shackles in front & 2" blocks in rear to level.
3" body lift
There's a build tgread on here with those gauges. I'll try to link it
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
1988 Grand Wagoneer, , 6" on 33x12.5 BFG M/Ts & Mickey Thompson Classic wheels
Currently undergoing a 5.3/6L80E/NP241C swap!
You can view my Build/Work In Progress thread by clicking HERE!
1988 Grand Wagoneer, , 6" on 33x12.5 BFG M/Ts & Mickey Thompson Classic wheels
Currently undergoing a 5.3/6L80E/NP241C swap!
You can view my Build/Work In Progress thread by clicking HERE!
msh227 wrote:Thanks. I will take a peak at that, so with that technology when you need to scan the PCM you just unplug your gauges from OBD2 port, perform scan, re-plug gauges into OBD2 port and go about business?
Seems pretty simple and quite possibly worth the extra cost depending what that cost is.
It's only two wires, the Can-Bus Hi and Can-Bus Low wires, thus you can tap into them behind the OBD2 connector (anywhere along the correct wires) and leave the port itself open.
243 - Thanks! I regeared with 4.56s to compensate for the 37s. I know there is added rotational mass and I noticed it lacked power with the 360 but I'm looking forward to running it with the 5.3L with little to no issues, hopefully.
I'm working on getting the first startup video posted hopefully later today.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Matt
1978 J10 5.3L/700r4/QT swap in progress.....
37x14.50R15 TOYO Open Country MT
4.56 Gears
6" BJs springs w/ BJs offroad shackles in front & 2" blocks in rear to level.
3" body lift
Here is a quick video of the test start. Keep in mind it is open manifolds and my wiring is not complete, I didn't run it long just enough to hear it fire.
Matt
1978 J10 5.3L/700r4/QT swap in progress.....
37x14.50R15 TOYO Open Country MT
4.56 Gears
6" BJs springs w/ BJs offroad shackles in front & 2" blocks in rear to level.
3" body lift
1988 Grand Wagoneer, , 6" on 33x12.5 BFG M/Ts & Mickey Thompson Classic wheels
Currently undergoing a 5.3/6L80E/NP241C swap!
You can view my Build/Work In Progress thread by clicking HERE!