Alright I've tracked down my rear axle! Time to start making progress on this thing.
Up front I'll be running a K20 Dana 44 HD (with the 3" .5" wall axle tubes) open with 4.10's and 6 lug outers from a late FSJ 44. If my math and other peoples measurements are right that should wind up at 67.5" WMS (stock is 64.5" with less backspacing). Why do all that you ask? Slightly beefier center section and axle tubes than the stock axle, slightly wider than the stock axle to keep the tires from rubbing the springs at full lock when I go to 12.50 wide tires, the Chevy axle already has SOA perches at the correct width, and aside from a new set of calipers and pads It's all parts that I've got laying around in my junk pile! The Chevy housing came free with some crap I bought and resold over the summer. I'm still looking into their effectiveness; but I would also like to run IRO's almost alloy kit on the front shafts for a little extra piece of mind. The kit consists of several small tabs you weld onto the yoke ears to help keep them from deforming. More info here:
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product ... y-kit.html
Still need to figure out who's high steer arms to run. Would prefer to run Sky's keyed arms but I need to do some research regarding backspacing...
The rear housing is coming from my old 73 J4000 I owned for a while:
So it's a semi float dana 60-2, non c clip, with 35 spline axle shafts and SET80 wheel bearings. Way bigger than a dana 44 SET10 bearing; the SET80 is used in the heavy duty dana 44 variant in the Nissan Titan, trick 40 spline ford 9" stuff, and Dynatrac's ProRock 60 rear axles. I'm essentially making a home made ProRock 60 rear end! In stock form this axles weak points are the dana 44 sized 2 3/4" axle tubes, and discontinued unmaintainable 12x2 brakes. A truss will take care of the axle tubes weakness and will keep everything much lighter than a full float rear end like a 14 bolt. I expect this 60 to only be 50 lbs heavier than the stock 44 totally decked out. And if you were to truss the 44 (which I would have done if I were keeping it) the weight difference would be even less.
The 60-2 is already 4.10, has the correct yoke and offset to bolt to my stock drive shaft, and the perches are in the correct location to bolt up. The catch here is the lug pattern is 5x5.50 and there are no stock brakes I can run. I need to get the housing home and cleaned up so I can come up with a solution to the brakes and lug pattern. If there isn't an access hole in the flange I can get the stock axle re drilled to 6x5.5, but the spacing might be wrong to run any available rotors. Worst case scenario I know I can get alloy shafts custom made by Dutchman for $370 delivered to my door with studs and retainer plates in whatever dimensions I want but I'd prefer the cheaper option of re drilling the stock shafts. 1.5" 35 spline shafts should hold up to lots more abuse that this truck will dish out on 36" tires without going to alloy's.
So the shopping list for the axles and suspension so far...
$300 - Rear 60-2 and some other truck parts (there's sentimental value in using my old trucks axle too)
$??? - Inner shaft seals for the front 44
$??? - Front u joints and ball joints
$??? - High steer, links, and associated machining costs
$??? - New lug studs, JB7 calipers and hoses, pads
$430 - Torq lunchbox locker
$??? - Rear brakes...
$??? - Springs and hangers for the rear
Gabe, "reformed" Jeep hoarder.