Build Thread: Chief Laredo

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Topic author
CJ5
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 11:04 am

Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by CJ5 »

11/14/12 ...one full page from the past is missing

We have begun putting in the heat/sound material. We will put a dynamat material inside the doors and fenders. We already did the same for the roof. I will also put some around the fender wells and on the tranny hump. The rest of the floor will be covered in thermolite which is a felt and foil like material. The dynamat is just to expensive to put everywhere. Since I have the carpet with mass backing, I think we will be fine.
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We also received our sound system products and will begin working out the installation and wiring details.
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The most important thing right now is getting the dash modified, blasted, painted and installed before Thanksgiving. My dad will be in town and he is an experienced windshield installer so I need to take advantage of that.

I am going with the plan of putting the Nav/Rec until in the space where the glove box is located. I only have to modify the right and left. The top and bottom will fit perfect.
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We started by cutting the middle out of the glove box for the unit to sit. We left a tab so we can bend the metal down and close up the raised area.
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The hinges for the glove box still attach to both sides. So, we will keep the right side as a small glove box. I will drill a hole for the lock and remove and square up the Laredo badge and I think it will look good. It will at least give a small lockable space to put things.

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It looks like everything will look good. The main concern was the protruding area. It will be raised up around 3/4 of an inch but it will not interfere with the view of the screen, so I think it will be fine. I will try to round it off a little and dress it up.
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This is the current mock up. I believe it will look good. I have to decide the left side. Right now, our thinking is to remove only the top portion of the glove box door and leave that open for a cubby hole. The thought is to run the USB cable to that cubby-hole and then it can be an area to lay his phone.

Then clean everything up, fill in metal gaps with metal filler, sand, smooth and be done. I will paint the dash and also paint the unit trim ring which should bring it all together and look somewhat factory.

Topic author
CJ5
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 11:04 am

Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by CJ5 »

11/25/12

We finished the dash modification. Everything will turn out good.
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The next step was to get the dash primed and painted. Sanded everything down, primed and hit it with some 600 grit and then 1000 on the front.
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We also scrubbed the old dash pad down and cleand well with grease and wax remover. Prior to painting, sprayed it with adhesion promoter.
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We painted both the dash and dash pad using a PPG specialty elastomeric paint we had mixed with the nutmeg paint code from AMC. This is the same paint we used and/or will use on all of the plastic and metal. We sprayed with several coats using a small HVLP gun.
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It all turned out great. The dash has a nice smooth finish and the dash pad turned out great also. The dash pad looks so much better than before.
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We then installed the dash. The openings for the defrost dents were flaring up so before the install we applied contact cement and used C clamps to hold it until dried. It worked well and the openings now sit flat against the dash.
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Once the dash was installed, we began the windshield install. My dad is a retired installer so we cheated a little. He prepped the new gasket by cleaning the grooves with wax and grease removed so the sealer would get a good bond. Then we applied sealer inside the inner grove and installed. Then applied sealer to the outer groove and slide the windshield in. It took some work to get it in completely but it went in. Then we worked the rubber lock system in all the way around. This was difficult, especially as you get to the final part. After that it was done. My dad then went and applied sealer to the outside gasket and windshield all the way around. A little clean up and it was done.
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I spent the day adding small parts that were ready. Parking brake, hood release, window felt, kick panels and fresh air intake grilles and cables.
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It is starting to take shape and look like it may be driveable soon.
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We will continue to add the small parts. I still have to adjust the doors and then we can install the weatherstripping, regulators, etc. The plan is to get eveything installed and get ready to work the electical.

Topic author
CJ5
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 11:04 am

Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by CJ5 »

12/6/12

We have completed most of the sound deadening. We used several products including the Eastwood knock off of Dynamat.
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Since we are putting speakers inside the mid panels, behind the B pillar, we will add dynamat there also. We have to wait until we have the holes cut to be able to access this area. What we have left over we will add to the floor. I originally decided to use something different due to cost but I will have a good bit of dynamat left.

We also completed one of our cargo panel boards. That process was pretty straight forward. We used a poduct called Hardboard. We copied the old panel and cut it out using a jigsaw. Then we sanded the on the edges to make everything was square.
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We used a drill to make the holes for the spring clips and then used a rat tail file to fine tune the holes. A rotozip or dremel will be used on the next ones but it work fine without one. I replaced the rivets on the metal clips with nuts and bolts.
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We sprayed a contact cement on both pieces and when tacky we put them together and stretched the material over. I used some staples on the corners where the material was thickest. 1/4" staples where the smallest I could find for a standard gun. They worked fine on the thickest areas but a little long in the other areas.
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I used some of the deadening material and glued it on the inside. I made sure to cut it short all around so it didn't interfere with the mounting area. It is probably over kill but I figure every bit helps.
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We then mounted it and it looks great. We only have 5 more panels to go.
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This was the smallest and easiest to do and a good one to experiment with. The two on the B pillar will have cutouts for speakers. The rear driver will have some alterations from stock also. I will not use the passenger rear since a speaker box will be going there.

Other than that, we got all of the door parts in; regulator, opening linkage, lock mech, etc. The tailgate is complete except the parts that require wiring and that will be the next thing.

Thanks for following and giving us advice it is all much appreciated.

Topic author
CJ5
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 11:04 am

Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by CJ5 »

12/17/12

Moving on. We replaced the old cargo floor panels. Mine were not in too bad shape. We used luan but we re-used the cardboard slats. This was a pretty simple job. Traced and cut using the old as a pattern. Removed the old slats. Laid everything out and stapled it all back together.
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We then added the rearview camera. It is built into the tag holder. It worked out quite nice with the wires. It came wired at the tag with a grommet. I pushed the wire through the hole for the tag light wires and the grommet fit perfectly. Since I had previously cut the tag light wires, I pushed them through the same grommet(the side without the connectors). It all worked out seamlessly. I removed the old plastic tag nuts and the bolts for the new tag holder camera fit perfect and secured. I could not use the bottom bolts as there was not enough room inside the tailgate to secure nuts. Don't ask how I know, but I have a hole to fill.
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We then cleanup up our wiring and prepared it for installation.

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We then worked on the sub box. I used left over foam sheets to make a pattern.

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We used some wood we had left over from some other project. It was a lot nicer than need be but we had it in stock. Using our pattern we formed the box and test fitted several hundred times.
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Once we were happy, we fitted a back on the box and then fitted a form fitting front on the box.
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Before we secured everything we lined the box with dynamat and made sure all seams were covered. It should be air tight. We checked the dimensions one more time and we are within what was recommended. It is 8.5" deep and the size of the rear quarter opening, about 0.9 cubic in?

We used the template that came with the speaker and made our hole and tested.
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I added 1" wood pieces on the top and rear side to fit flush against the body like a cargo panel would and pre drilled our holes for mounting. We will use upholstery screws to secure. Then we covered in carpet. We purchased extra when we ordered our carpet for the interior.
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Jared is stoked already! I think it turned out good. That carpet is a little hard to work with on the corners but it came out well.

Topic author
CJ5
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 11:04 am

Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by CJ5 »

1/4/13

I have a little update. With the holidays, time was a little limited and to add to that my MIL unexpectedly passed away xmas morning. It's been a little rough around here.

First, on the cargo floor, after sitting on it and working around I decided to remove one of the slats. It is much better with the luan and just one of the cardboard slats.

In anticipation of my BIL coming to help with the stereo wiring, I removed the headliner and installed the tweeters. It was a pretty simple process using the provided template and since they are only about 3/4" thick there was plenty of room. The wires were run down the B pillar where they will meet up with the crossovers and other speakers going on the panel behind the b-pillar. Because of the passing of his mom it will be a few weeks before we get the streo completed.
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We also polished and installed the roof rack and slats. I could not get the aluminum to polish as good as I hoped but it turned out ok. I also made sure all screws and luggage rack nuts were sealed.
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With the headliner down I ran the wires for the compass/temp rear view mirror. I ran the wires across the headliner and down the B pillar. Once all that was done the headliner was re installed along with the visors. I opted not to have those recovered. They are in great condition so I didn't think it was necessary.
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I had hoped to show pics of the windshield trim installed but I ran into a snag with the upper trim and moved on. I did get the screen installed on the cowl. I used some leftover window screen and secured it with hot glue. I didn't do a great job of cutting but it will be hidden and further secured by the cowl cover. This picture makes it look pathetic but I promise it lays smooth and not as wavy as the pic.
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We did finish the rear driver side cargo panel. Recovered and installed.
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We also got the wiring and cables installed for the rear view camera. It worked out good and I just had to make cut in the rear tailgate jamb like the factory one on the opposite side. There was a plug on the rear inside quarter panel next to the plug hole for the lights so I used it to run the cables into the interior of the quarter panel and then up to the front.
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I cleaned and painted the headlight buckets and got it all in working order and then installed the new housings for the HID lights. I have not installed the wiring or bulbs yet but mocked everything up to be sure it worked out. I had to buy a bezel from someone on the board since one of mine only had three tabs and that was not enough to pull the bezel down. It is really tight with these new housings.
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We also finished the rear lighting harness and wired in the trailer lighting. We installed this and the harness with no issues. Everything in the rear is wired with the exception of making the connections for the wires coming out of the tailgate.
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We are moving along and getting little things added here and there. It will not be long before we get electrical started. I should be able to get the seats prepped and sent to upholstery in the next couple of weeks.

Brad, I believe I got the ac kit from this place.
http://www.uacparts.com/login.aspx?ReloginCode=0

The name is on a box but I have not found my receipt. The guy I called knew what I was doing and sent a complete kit with compressor, dryer, fittings and evaporator, hoses and conversion bracket. I believe I got the original info from Rick (Serehill). I changed over mainly because that york unit is a monstrosity, the clutch was going bad on my stock one and a I just could not verify how good a cheap replacement I bought from someone on the board was. Since I was doing the conversion I figured I would just start over fresh.

I bought some led from TGW. I am going to use a link Serehill have me to purchase the others. I will try to find that for you. He advised not to change the blinker lights in the panel but everything else was ok to do. He also suggested an electronic blinker relay too. Edit: Here is the link Rick sent me http://www.ledbrightlight.com/

I was al Lowes this am getting containers for the xmas stuff and checked out some swatches of the screen. My concern is getting to to lay flat and stay put under pressure. It is a good idea but I think I will just paint over the pearl.

I hope Jared doesn't want to drive it long. Then I can have it back. Funny story about cars around here. My wife's Volvo finally bit the dust and dropped a cylinder Friday. It was coming, it was a 99. We don't buy cars around here and do not keep car payments so everything we own has to get run until death. Anyway, We decide to go to the dealership Saturday to check out a few she wanted. My 03 Suburban crapped the alternator on the way. So we are broke down on the side of the road on the way to buy a new car. My nephew came and jumped us enough to get back home and I had to take the only working car to the parts house to get an alternator. Our most reliable vehicle right now? A 72 CJ5. Pathetic. LOL

Topic author
CJ5
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 11:04 am

Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by CJ5 »

1/16/13

The latest update includes finalizing the rear harness and lights and the stereo system.

I will have completed a complete conversion to LED on all lights except the headlights. So far, we have installed and tested the rear. They look great. I have yet to finish the front markers and side lights but have installed the bulbs and fixtures and they light up but have not tested blinker function. The rear looks good, very bright and clear. The backup lights are the best I have had on any vehicle. The pics don't do justice but here it is.
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These are the bulbs we used.
2- Front markers, 1157, amber
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...ed-tower-/814/
2- Side Front markers, 194, amber
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...edge-base/206/
With resistors
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...se-tower/1127/
2- Side Rear markers, 194, Red
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...edge-base/206/
2 -Rear Brake/Turn, 1157, Red
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...ed-tower-/814/
2- Rear Backup, 1156, White
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...led-tower/526/

The plan now is to install LED strips along the bottom of the dash and remove the old courtesy lights. We also are going to add light strips along the top of the rear windows. There is a space above the gasket that will allow the strip to be hidden and actually look like accent lighting. These will fire along with the dash strips when the door is open or when the switch is turned on and because they will be hidden, I think it will look cool. To add to the coolness factor, a $7.00 mini controller can be added which will have 7 color changes dynamic and static as well as speed control. LOL I know! I can also spend another $15.00 and get the controller with a mic that will change the lights based on sound. Think cash cab! Jared thinks it is a good idea.

My BIL, friend, nephew and Jared all worked last weekend on getting the nav/rec unit installed and wired. It took this crew a good 12 hours of solid work but it is installed and sounds great. I wish I had this stereo in my car when I was a teen. AC/DC and Kansas sounds great still at full tilt!
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We cut our panels on the middle cargo panels and made brakets to hold the speakers and crossovers. This will make for easy access. I installed baffles around all of the speakers.
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We also painted the grills. Jared preferred just the grills over painting the whole frame and grill. I think he made a good choice.
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The sub is wired and installed. I found a few leaks by feeling the air blowing out of the lower inside quarter panel and will need to address that. We also found a few squeaks and will address those.

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My buddy went through the stock radio, forever known as "old timer", and cleaner it up inside and out. Sprayed tuner cleaner and lube on all of the moving parts and got it in tip top shape. We got it installed with no issues. To make it work with the new system we had to do several things. First we had to purchase a device to switch it to RCA jacks. Then we had to use a switch that would sense the signal between it and the new stereo so the amp would not play both signals at once. I misunderstood when I ordered the switches so old timer will only play out of one pair of speakers. It really needs a different switch so it will play out of all of the speakers. It is overkill anyway so we stayed with what we have and choose the middle speakers. I also purchased an antenna splitter so both stereo's could use the same antenna.

We then began the task of wiring everything up. There are a lot of wires associated with the new unit.
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The new unit had a GPS that we placed in the middle of the dash and the wires come up through the dash behind the rubber gasket so they are hidden. The mic we placed on the A pillar and that wire runs inside the door seals and behind the dash, also hidden. It all worked out well. We did some test fitting with the seats and console and everything should be hidden. We will make adjustments once we install the carpet.
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It all tested out great and sounded really good. Nice bass, crisp and clear sound! My BIL adjusted things down so Jared doesn't blow anything out and could keep some of his hearing. The bluetooth worked great too and should help him keep his eyes on the road and not on his phone. The iphone hook-up worked good receiving and making calls hands free, etc. The system sound be a good one for him. Old timer also worked fine. I got good CB signal but need to get it outside to really adjust the SWR. The sound is decent and we accomplished what we wanted. Some new modern stuff but kept the old stock look too.
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We are now moving on to the front lighting wiring and HID lights. Things are moving along.

Topic author
CJ5
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 11:04 am

Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by CJ5 »

1/27/13

I have been working on electrical stuff lately. I am trying to get the interior wiring finished and got onto a side project with some LED lights. I converted all of the outside lights to led and was researching the inside lights. I have just about everything I need, but I am still waiting on a few bulbs for the instrument cluster.

The dome and cargo lights were so weak with what LED bulbs would fit. In looking we thought light strips would be nice and easy to install. The plan is to wire them to the dome/courtesy lights so they will come on when the door is open and you can turn them on by using the switch. There was a perfect place on the inside above the side windows that the 0.4 inch wide strips fit. That cinched the deal.
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We installed strips on both sides and will also install one under the front edge of the dash for most of its length.
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It was hard to get good pictures but you get the idea. There is plenty of light. What you do not see is the strips are wired together and have a mini controller. They will change into 20 static colors, 19 dynamic effects, 10 different speeds and 5 different brightness. What mode you have it when power is cut is what mode it powers on. This will work well once the newness wears off. It might be little ghetto but that is ok. He wanted the controller with the mic that controls the lights based in sound. LOL

We installed Serehill's wiring for the HID lights and installed the ballasts, etc. They tested fine so the front loom is complete and buttoned up.
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We now have moved on to the engine harness. After much helpful consultation from board members we completed that process today.

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All connections were cleaned up. A few new wires were added and a few wires were removed. We then tested each connection from the bulkhead to their termination. That being done, we feel confident it all will work as designed.

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The completed project...well not 100%, we still have a few things to tidy up.
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One other thing we work on was our instrument cluster. We have LED bulbs for everything but that issue with the cluster being poorly lit we wanted to improve. I have a strip of LEDs left over. So we took the cluster apart and ran a strip around the inside interior. We also cut slots so the continous strip could go into the heater control area as well. It all lit up very nice and even. We are going to lay with it a little as it may be too bright. I am thinking a black sharpie in strategic places in the strip might be able to tone it down a little.

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Topic author
CJ5
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 11:04 am

Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by CJ5 »

1/27/13

I have been working on electrical stuff lately. I am trying to get the interior wiring finished and got onto a side project with some LED lights. I converted all of the outside lights to led and was researching the inside lights. I have just about everything I need, but I am still waiting on a few bulbs for the instrument cluster.

The dome and cargo lights were so weak with what LED bulbs would fit. In looking we thought light strips would be nice and easy to install. The plan is to wire them to the dome/courtesy lights so they will come on when the door is open and you can turn them on by using the switch. There was a perfect place on the inside above the side windows that the 0.4 inch wide strips fit. That cinched the deal.
Image


We installed strips on both sides and will also install one under the front edge of the dash for most of its length.
Image


It was hard to get good pictures but you get the idea. There is plenty of light. What you do not see is the strips are wired together and have a mini controller. They will change into 20 static colors, 19 dynamic effects, 10 different speeds and 5 different brightness. What mode you have it when power is cut is what mode it powers on. This will work well once the newness wears off. It might be little ghetto but that is ok. He wanted the controller with the mic that controls the lights based in sound. LOL

We installed Serehill's wiring for the HID lights and installed the ballasts, etc. They tested fine so the front loom is complete and buttoned up.
Image
Image



We now have moved on to the engine harness. After much helpful consultation from board members we completed that process today.

Image
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All connections were cleaned up. A few new wires were added and a few wires were removed. We then tested each connection from the bulkhead to their termination. That being done, we feel confident it all will work as designed.

Image
Image
Image


The completed project...well not 100%, we still have a few things to tidy up.
Image
Image









One other thing we work on was our instrument cluster. We have LED bulbs for everything but that issue with the cluster being poorly lit we wanted to improve. I have a strip of LEDs left over. So we took the cluster apart and ran a strip around the inside interior. We also cut slots so the continous strip could go into the heater control area as well. It all lit up very nice and even. We are going to lay with it a little as it may be too bright. I am thinking a black sharpie in strategic places in the strip might be able to tone it down a little.

Image
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Stuka
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Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by Stuka »

All I can say is wow.....
2017 JKU Rubicon
Pevious Jeeps: 1981 J10, 1975 Cherokee, 2008 JK, 2005 KJ, 1989 XJ

Jagged
Posts: 130
Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 7:24 am
Location: Sultan, WA

Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by Jagged »

I will echo Stuka. Wow. And I'll raise another wow.

Awesome build. :)
1982 Jeep CJ-7, 4" lift, 35"s, Rust, AMC 401, T-18, D300 Twin-stick
2000 Jeep Cherokee, 6" Lift, 33"s, 4.0 I6, AW4, NP231
1979 Jeep Cherokee, 4-speed, 360
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Florida83FSJCherokee
Posts: 196
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:53 pm
Location: Lakeland , Central Florida

Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by Florida83FSJCherokee »

:Insert 80's hair band emodicon Smiley here:

Back in the Saddle again!

Congratulations on the resurrection!

JP

Crist Clapper
Posts: 7
Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 7:14 am
Location: Blair County PA

Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by Crist Clapper »

Your attention to detail is impeccable… Congratulations on such great work! I also enjoy seeing my handiwork on your air-filter cover… Thanks.
CJ5 wrote:2/12/12

It has been a month since I updated. It has been a little slow going. I have been trying to get the paint on the roof line fixed and I am not that good at blending...especially, tri-coat blending. I want to finish this before we put the body back on.

So, we are working to get anything and everything done on the chasiss while I fumble through the painting.

We sandblasted all of the brackets for the motor. We also aquired a sanden A/C bracket from the board so we can convert from York. We also got a lower alt bracket so we can do the CS144 conversion.
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Pay no attention to the YJ. The tires give away how long it has been since we had it out. I am going to get it ready to sell. No since in it sitting there wasting away.

A buddy has set up a powedercoating syste, so we got the parts ready and spent a day at his place. I opted for the black mirror.
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Powdered all of the brackets. Then we assembled everything. We have pretty much done all we can on the motor and chassis. There are a few little things we will finish. I just need to get the body back on and get back to body work and paint prep. Here are pics of where we are.
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The progress is slow but it is steady.
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bwwhaler
Posts: 224
Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 6:33 am
Location: Wilmington NC

Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by bwwhaler »

I am sooo glad you have revived your build here, It was one of my favorites, I also hope some of the other members can revive their builds here too. :-bd
1987 GW 360/727/229 Performer intake Holley 670 32's 4" BJ's Springs CS-144 Serehill's light and tailgate harness

Saul32
Posts: 120
Joined: Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:00 am
Location: Chicago IL

Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by Saul32 »

Thanks for sharing this amazing restoration with us.
88' Grand Wagoneer
Comp cam 260
Holley T/A
Edlebrock performer intake
Flow Master Super 40
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jpswapmohn
Posts: 656
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:08 pm
Location: CO

Re: Build Thread: Chief Laredo

Post by jpswapmohn »

Photos now say a subscription is required..
One day I will wake up and realize that my jeep is complete...one day, I just know it.
88Wag, LT1/4L60E/NP242, J20 axles, etc. http://imgbox.com/g/rNuIasKYrS
95YJ, STaK, D44's, SOA, ARB's, Bilstein 5150s, 35" KM2's
50 CJ3A
77 J-10 (sold)
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