My 1988 Grand Wagoneer build thread (LS Swap began 3/13/14!)

ShawnQ · Post by **ShawnQ** » Thu Nov 20, 2014 7:52 pm

I do use Amazon and have a prime account. I just have to be careful of sales tax.

I didn't buy anything today, but got started on the fuse block.

I'll add pics later

ShawnQ · Post by **ShawnQ** » Fri Nov 21, 2014 7:10 pm

Got a start on a fuse block...and then went back and pkate with my wiring all day.

I still dont know exactly what I need for the 4wd speed and signals for thr Gen IV and 6L80E. I'm slowly figuring it out though.

Also, when wiring an electric fan with relays...what is the best way to trigger it?

The factory relay is triggered one way (I think ECM trigger goes to 85), but LT1swap.com shows it going to 86. Both should function...but what are the pros of each?

j20owner · Post by **j20owner** » Sat Nov 22, 2014 8:59 am

85 and 86 are the same, really. They are each one side of the coil. There is absolutely no difference in them. It will work the same no matter how it is wired. Just make sure 30 and 87 are the load circuits.

ShawnQ · Post by **ShawnQ** » Sat Nov 22, 2014 10:24 am

J20, that's what I assumed...just wasn't sure.

Also, I have heard issues about the 6L80 TCM shutting down before the E38 ECM, which causes shift problems, codes, etc.

I need to find a relay to help the TCM stay on as long as the ECM. Apparently when you turn the key off, the ECM stays energized for a few seconds and communicates with the TCM. If the TCM doesnt stay energized also after key is off, it will cause problems.

Jeepin Jeff · Post by **Jeepin Jeff** » Tue Nov 25, 2014 5:15 pm

Nice work on that fuse block Shawn, looking good! For fuel lines, I researched and debated it a long time (as I bet you have) and I ended up choosing the nylon fuel lines with Dorman fittings. Nylon is commonly used on modern production vehicles, is somewhat cheaper than other options and is accepted on other sites that do a lot of swaps. Whatever you pick make sure Ethanol won't bother it or you might spend a lot and end up redoing it.

Jeff

243 · Post by **243** » Tue Nov 25, 2014 5:31 pm

I used the nylon line and it worked quite well, bought the tubing and fittings from Summit.

Barbed compression to join steel line to nylon,

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-8 ... MwodZyIA9Q

Factory type quick connects to join nylon to full pump module

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0290

It might have been even easier to run the nylon front to back through the frame but I ran steel for 3/4 the distance.

No special tools needed, boil some water, heat the nylon and gently push it on the barb, if it gets real tight, stop and heat it some more and keep pushing it on the fitting. The nylon on the plastic was a bit harder because the barb is a smidge bigger than the brass.

ShawnQ · Post by **ShawnQ** » Tue Nov 25, 2014 8:51 pm

Thanks for the info on the nylon. I figured if it came that way from the factory then it's probably sufficient.

I have the factory trans cooler lines. I need to try to adapt them to fit a universal trans cooler. More on that when I get to it.

I also wonder if the factory fsj fuel line (steel) is sufficient for the 5.3? I have my originals, in great shape...but havent put a caliper on them to check their size. It would be nice to use them for most of it but iirc they are not large enough.

Im out of town f for the holiday week...but will get back on it next week!
I hope you all have a Happy and Safe Thanksgiving

surfwagoneer · Post by **surfwagoneer** » Wed Nov 26, 2014 9:27 am

Is your engine equipped with DOD? and if so did you delete it?

ShawnQ · Post by **ShawnQ** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 9:16 am

I have an LY5 out of an 09. It should be DOD/AFM.

I didnt remove anything from the engine itself. I honestly didnt ask Brendan if he turned it out.
I don't mind having it as I don't plan to use a big cam or anything

j20owner · Post by **j20owner** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 5:52 pm

Shawn, stock jeep fuel lines are 5/16" and 1/4" from what I've seen. Stock gm lines are 3/8" feed and 5/16" return(if equipped).

CAPTSmith · Post by **CAPTSmith** » Tue Jan 06, 2015 8:33 am

Shawn, your Waggy is really looking great and looks like the LS engine swap is going well! You will really enjoy it as I have about 10,000 miles on my '88 Waggy with 6.0 Vortec, 4L80e, NP241c, and love the power, reliability, etc. but have a hard time keeping my heavy right foot on the skinny pedal - just love the horsepower and sound!

Atla · Post by **Atla** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 6:39 pm

I spy JeepForum!

ShawnQ · Post by **ShawnQ** » Mon Feb 09, 2015 7:39 pm

Got the ol girl out in the 75* February cold front...she hasn't seen the sunshine in a while.

Cleaned the garage up and wheeled her back in.

Progress should start again soon. I'll be ordering my fuel lines and fittings once i get my tax return. And then the cooling system.

ShawnQ · Post by **ShawnQ** » Wed Mar 04, 2015 2:19 pm

Bought a radiator, aluminum, off of eBay. Set the grill support on to test fitment and it looks like it will work great! Aluminum, all welded, for $125, nice!

Anyone have a source for mounts and bushings for radiator/headlight support?

XJChad · Post by **XJChad** » Thu Mar 05, 2015 1:33 am

The radiator I used is the Griffin LS swap radiator that others on here have used. They have flanges made onto each side. I had to trim a bit off of the top of the core support on each side to get it to fit the way I wanted, because I am going to run the stock GM mechanical fan for now. I also took the GM shroud and cut it up and have been trimming on it. Once I get it how I want it I will probably use it as a template to make a new one out of fiberglass.

For the bushings, are you talking about the body bushings between the frame and the core support? If so I don't know where to source just those bushings without having to buy a complete kit, unless BJ's will sell them separately?

As far as fuel lines, I have purchased some of the parts, but I haven't started building the lines yet. I also ordered the 3/8" nylon fuel lines. At one point I measured my Wag's fuel lines and I am pretty sure they were 3/8 and 5/16, but I could be mistaken.

Nice progress by the way!

ShawnQ · Post by **ShawnQ** » Fri May 29, 2015 7:01 am

Haven't had time to mess with it lately...and due to a pending career change, my newest addition to my family (son!), I'm considering either paying someone to finish it, or selling it.

Anyone know a competent person, or shop, in the Houston area who may be able to get this on the road? I'm not looking for a show-quality build, just a driver.

My other option is to sell it...which I hate to do considering the fact that it's in pieces and SO CLOSE.

Any input?

XJChad · Post by **XJChad** » Sun Jun 14, 2015 4:24 am

I don't know anyone down in the Houston area that could help you out. I would say push on and work on it as you have time to finish it, even if it takes several more months... you are getting close!!!

I do know a few people that may be interested in it if you decide to sell.... what is a ballpark figure of what you will ask for it?

j20brett · Post by **j20brett** » Tue Aug 04, 2015 1:04 pm

Talk to Dave at Brave Motorsports. He is on the west side of Houston at Clay and Gessner. They do these conversions all the time. Great thread and want to see this thing finished up!

DustinLangston · Post by **DustinLangston** » Wed Dec 16, 2015 3:45 pm

I'm doing the exact same swap right now. I'm curious to see how the stock trans cross member works with my Dana 300.

msh227 · Post by **msh227** » Wed Feb 17, 2016 5:43 pm

Any updates on this? I fell into a similar issue. My daughter was born and time to work on project disappeared. I finally decided to pay to have it finished. Mainly the wiring and small odds and ends to get it back on the road (which will hopefully be within next month).

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