My 1988 Grand Wagoneer build thread (LS Swap began 3/13/14!)

[Road Trip]

Shawn, I may need to come to Bayou Vista to see your project. It looks good and the work too.

[Clean Racing]

Hey Shawn,

I seen you ask on Pirate about cruise control. This is the kit that I got.. Works good on the scout with 5.3L swap.

http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/25 ... ntrol-kit/

[ShawnQ]

Hey Shawn,

I seen you ask on Pirate about cruise control. This is the kit that I got.. Works good on the scout with 5.3L swap.

http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/25 ... ntrol-kit/

THanks for the info. I'll look into that once I get it going!

[ProTouring442]

I went with cruise control from Spanky's Rod Shop http://www.spankysrodshop.net/

It's probably the Rostra unit, but they can adapt it to the factory cruise switch in our Jeeps.

[ShawnQ]

Just an update - ECM and TCM have been sent out to get programmed.

I have the wiring harness figured out - just waiting on parts/pieces to show up so I can assemble a fuse/relay box.
I'm also debating on where and how I want to mount the ECM/Fuses...which will help me decide whether I need to extend or shorten any of my wires.

I need to paint the engine bay before I can do much else - I'm just deciding which paint to use. I'm strongly considering just covering the 'bare' spots to keep them from rusting, and installing the engine. Then I'll pull the engine/wiring later when I repaint the remainder of the vehicle. This will allow it all to match. I don't want to 'skimp', but I also hate to spend a lot of money on it before I even know for sure the thing will run/drive with the donor engine/trans/t-case. Form follows function - I'll first make it functional, then I'll work on making it pretty. It isn't bad, by any means. That's why I'm thinking just a quick coat on the new bare metal mounts, touch up any spots I have showing surface rust, and go forward. Regardless, I'll have to strip it to finish it later on - what's 1 more coat of rattle-can paint?

Tomorrow I'll try to remove the factory fuel tank and accessories, as well as the driveshaft. This will allow me to start making room for the new fuel tank/lines/etc.

[msh227]

Sounds good... I suggest checking out Valspar Implement paint or the new brand that Tractor Supply Company has. I'm happy with it but if you are looking for cheap and will be stripping it to finish later maybe a $0.99 rattle can from Wally World would work also.

[ShawnQ]

Sounds good... I suggest checking out Valspar Implement paint or the new brand that Tractor Supply Company has. I'm happy with it but if you are looking for cheap and will be stripping it to finish later maybe a $0.99 rattle can from Wally World would work also.

The only spots that need attention are the Novak mounts, and there is a spot of surface rust on the inner fenderwell where the master cylinder leaked down on it at one point and ate away the paint. Other than that, it's all covered - just not perfect.

I'll look into the paint you mentioned. However, I think wallyworld may be the best bet until I get the engine in, work the bugs out, etc. Then I can pull it out and do it right. Like I said - I just hate to sink all of that extra time into it without knowing for sure that I am even capable of making this thing run!

Another issue is hurricane season right around the corner - it's torn apart in the garage of my house. My house is on a canal on the Bay. During Ike, the garage had about 7' of water in it. Needless to say, if a good storm hits - kiss it all goodbye unless I can get it running/driving soon!

On another note -

Got the fuel tank out today before the rain hit. It's for sale if anyone in the area is looking for one in good condition.
I was going to try to get some paint on the engine mounts but doubt that will happen with this weather. We'll see how it looks this afternoon.

Take care,
Shawn

[msh227]

So your plan is to get it running and then you are going to pull the entire drivetrain out of the rig and clean everything up and re-install? Sounds like a lot of work, but it will look really good once it is finished.

As far as hurricane season sounds like you need this waggy lifted on some 38's!!! Ha jk.

[ShawnQ]

So your plan is to get it running and then you are going to pull the entire drivetrain out of the rig and clean everything up and re-install? Sounds like a lot of work, but it will look really good once it is finished.

As far as hurricane season sounds like you need this waggy lifted on some 38's!!! Ha jk.

Kinda...I want everything placed/mounted, screws drilled, brackets welded, etc - BEFORE I paint it. In other words, I don't want to be drilling and welding and bolting through new paint. Id rather have it done, pull it out, spray, then reinstall.

Removing the drivetrain is the easy part. I had that done on day 2. All the little stuff is what takes time. Figuring out what works, what doesnt, etc.

Like I said - the paint is in pretty decent shape as is. It will work as long as I cover the bare spots for the time being.

Regarding 38s - I would have to drive in a straight line only! Hah

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[msh227]

Shawn, what cooling fan are you going with? I still have to buy one for my swap.

[ShawnQ]

Ive had a lot of luck with the Lincoln mark viii fans on my mustangs. Or ford contour v6 & Taurus fans. Slim and strong

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[ShawnQ]

Ive received all of my electrical parts.

Ive also ordered my fuel tank and pump.

Found an airbox/intake assembly locally.

In Other words, ive got plenty of stuff here to work on - now I just need time!

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[CAPTSmith]

Shawn, CAPT Smith here shipmate! Your build looks great! Did you email me in a different thread? Sorry if I forgot to reply! How can I help you?

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[ShawnQ]

CAPT, I honestly dont recall what I needed...but I did email you. If I remember I will let you know! How's your jeep doing?
I have to finish a bathroom remodel...hence the reason why mine has been on hold for a few weeks

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[ShawnQ]

I just got my tank and pump.

The tank is a GM18D for 97-02 blazer 2d. However, it is not baffled. Is that normal? I thought the reason for replacing the stock tank was to gain baffles to prevent the EFI system from starving due to fuel sloshing?

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[j20owner]

The fuel pump module for that tank has a plastic 'baffle' built in to hold fuel.

[ShawnQ]

Ah ok...that makes sense. Thats the pump I have, e3954m if I remember correctly. Picked up a new pump and tank for under $90

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[XJChad]

Shawn, I am almost at the same point as you. I have been researching tanks trying to find a baffled tank, thinking thats what I need for the injection?

I have also been trying to decide which fuel pump to go with. I think these last few posts have cleared that up. Where did you source the tank and pump from? Will you be running a return line, or is yours a newer set up?

My donor is a '99, so it has the return line set up I will have to deal with.

[ShawnQ]

Mine is a newer returnless. Ill be using the 99-02 corvette filter/regulator.

I got the tank and pump from ebay - I'll share the seller later when I get a minute.

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[Jeepin Jeff]

I'm using the pump like the one J20 shows and have run the dorman nylon 3/8 line for pressure and 5/16 for return. Also using the 97 - 2 door blazer tank and it fits the spare tire location on the j10 like its supposed to be there. Only thing I dislike about the setup it is that pumps outlet fittings point to the right rear tire, it would be better if it could be turned 90 degrees and point to the drivers side tire but with 90 and 45 quick connects it will work out ok.

Jeff