Wife's Waggy "Walter"...

tedlovesjeeps71 · Post by **tedlovesjeeps71** » Sat Jun 17, 2017 2:44 pm

And to keep adding questions...
Got the adapter installed. Looking at the tbi unit and see it has two fuel attachments. I'm guessing one is fuel in, the other a return. How do I know which is which??

*Edit*
Disregard. I'm am idiot. The tbi was literally sitting on the answer!! Haha! Larger lime is drivers side and is feed. Smaller is return.
Wondering where I will run the lines since it seems silly to route them back towards the front of the motor, down the block past the dizzy and over to the frame. Gonna have to head scratch on that some...

tedlovesjeeps71 · Post by **tedlovesjeeps71** » Sat Jun 17, 2017 3:09 pm

Ok, here's another one.
What's this thing that went to the carb and do I remove it from the intake or????

REDONE · Post by **REDONE** » Sat Jun 17, 2017 3:15 pm

That's the "choke stove", those lines are one tube, it just makes a loop in the exhaust chamber to absorb heat. You can just bends those lines out of the way, or snap them off, or make a block off plate. Dealers choice.

tedlovesjeeps71 · Post by **tedlovesjeeps71** » Sat Jun 17, 2017 3:23 pm

REDONE wrote:That's the "choke stove", those lines are one tube, it just makes a loop in the exhaust chamber to absorb heat. You can just bends those lines out of the way, or snap them off, or make a block off plate. Dealers choice.

Thanks man.... These questions seem to answer themselves some. One of the lines just fell off. I pulled the entire thing. Wow! Never would have thought all that was hiding in there!!
Guess I'll see how I can plug it.

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tedlovesjeeps71 · Post by **tedlovesjeeps71** » Sat Jun 17, 2017 3:29 pm

There has GOT to be some way to clean this rat's nest up. One of the vac lines is like 20"s long and travels all of 5"s... WHY!?! Wish I was more sure what was needed vs what I can rip out. I like starting with a clean slate but am worried I'll disconnect something that's needed.

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tedlovesjeeps71 · Post by **tedlovesjeeps71** » Sat Jun 17, 2017 4:15 pm

Anyone have any tips for the kickdown cable? I was able to swap the throttle fulcrum over from the carb, the cruise cable went right on. I'm not sure what to do for the kickdown though... Maybe drill out the bushing??

tedlovesjeeps71 · Post by **tedlovesjeeps71** » Sat Jun 17, 2017 4:39 pm

Always the little things that prove to be an issue. So the IN fuel line points right AT the bolt holding the cable bracket. Can't bend anything that short... Maybe cut it??

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REDONE · Post by **REDONE** » Sat Jun 17, 2017 5:19 pm

Just bend it. It bends fairly easy and it doesn't need to bend much.

tedlovesjeeps71 · Post by **tedlovesjeeps71** » Sat Jun 17, 2017 5:45 pm

REDONE wrote:Just bend it. It bends fairly easy and it doesn't need to bend much.

Ok, I'll give that a try. I'm wrestling with several octopusess right now...

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tedlovesjeeps71 · Post by **tedlovesjeeps71** » Sat Jun 17, 2017 6:18 pm

Here's another (shocker!) Question. Should I pull out the front CTO and replace it with the new coolant sensor??

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tedlovesjeeps71 · Post by **tedlovesjeeps71** » Sat Jun 17, 2017 7:29 pm

Ok... Stopping for the night. I have E a few questions if anyone has any info.

The above post asked about that coolant sensor. Does it make sense to pull that front sensor with the multi ports and use the sensor there?
I pulled the multi port plug and a bunch of vacuum lines off the back near the EGR. Just wanted to make room so I could see what I'm doing. Some of that I'm sure needs to go back... Just not sure what.
There is a large tube coming off the manifold behind the tbi near the EGR. It's got a good amount of carbon buildup in it... Would that be part of the EGR or pcv? Does it need to get plumbed into the air filter housing somewhere??
So far the kit is pretty straight forward. I managed to get the feed line bent some but that probably could have been done better. I also found two red wires that were unlabeled but I am guessing they are for a VSS?
Other than that my only other small complaint is the instructions. They are pretty detailed but also very generic. They are obviously created from where bill cut his teeth on IH scouts. I realize most applications are unique but I'd love if he'd make a jeep/FSJ set of instructions. There is one pic that is supposed to show where the vacuum lines on the tbi go. I can't read them.

Can any of you make it out??

tedlovesjeeps71 · Post by **tedlovesjeeps71** » Sun Jun 18, 2017 1:39 pm

Anybody....? Bueler?

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tedlovesjeeps71 · Post by **tedlovesjeeps71** » Sun Jun 18, 2017 2:32 pm

Bahaha... Speaking of bueler. These are the relays in the kit.

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Tatsadasayago · Post by **Tatsadasayago** » Sun Jun 18, 2017 3:37 pm

LOL@Buller

tedlovesjeeps71 · Post by **tedlovesjeeps71** » Sun Jun 18, 2017 3:55 pm

Urgh... I could use a little help folks!!
I've gotten the harness through the firewall and am at the point of figuring what goes where. Anyone with some experience can answer some questions please?????

1) where do I mount the MAP sensor and what port coming off the manifold should I use for it??

2) coolant sensor. As far as I can tell I have 2 options. Pull the bung out of the thermostat housing and install it there or remove the front CTO switch and install it directly into the manifold. I could really use some input on this because I don't want to put it in the wrong spot.

3) AC on signal wire? What's a source to connect that to?? Can I just cut this one and use it??

4) "S" side of the starter? Small purple wire. Should that go onto the starter itself or on the starter relay thing mounted on the fender? If the fender one, which terminal?

5) what is this thing that goes to the charcoal canister? Where does it go? Is it needed??

I realize it's fathers day and I may not get any replies but I would really, REALLY appreciate any help folks!!!!!

Nikkormat · Post by **Nikkormat** » Sun Jun 18, 2017 4:19 pm

I'll do what I can when I get off work

tedlovesjeeps71 · Post by **tedlovesjeeps71** » Sun Jun 18, 2017 4:41 pm

Nikkormat wrote:I'll do what I can when I get off work

Awesomeness! Thanks man. Just drenched myself in gas cutting the fuel line so no rush. Kinda.

if you want to text me that may be easier than trying to answer on the forum or..? Whatever you want to do I appreciate it!

571-419-4009 in case you don't have it still.

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Nikkormat · Post by **Nikkormat** » Sun Jun 18, 2017 7:15 pm

Ok bear with me here going to try to go in order...

Yes you can clean up the Duraspark wiring, I would pull the harness apart and find where the resistance wire ends and use that as my switched power for the ECU. Then remove the rest of the Duraspark wiring.

I ran my fuel lines up the firewall but I'd get some more opinions on that as I still vapor lock.

You can clean up a lot of the rats nest. Lookup the vacuum diagram for the Howell AMC TBI.

No idea on the kickdown cable. Can the end be removed and a bolt the size of the 727 bushing be installed?

ON THE COOLANT SENSOR... It needs to be in the path of coolant at all times! Mines I'm the thermostat housing and it runs like crap until it's hot. Choose the front right EGR CTO or the rear you already talked about.

The carbony nipple should be what the EGR gets hooked to but keep in mind there is also an external valve.

Charcoal cannister big hose thing is the carb bowl vent. Remove it and plug the nipple at the cannister.

Connect the MAP sensor only to the dedicated port on the throttle body!!!!!!!!!

tedlovesjeeps71 · Post by **tedlovesjeeps71** » Sun Jun 18, 2017 7:54 pm

Thanks Gabe.
According to Howell the map sensor is a vac line from sensor to the back port on the tbi. What do the three ports on the front of the tbi go to?
I'll put the temp in the CTO up front. Glad you answered that as I was wondering how it would read correctly if it was in the thermostat housing.
As far as the kickdown, I may drill out the center and use a couple washers and a cotter pin.
So I'm kinda like you on the firewall fuel line. After cutting them (and getting drenched) I pulled the metal lines out to rebend them for the firewall. I mounted the filter and pump on the frame just in front of the t-case front output. I think, if I'm lucky, I can run the metal up close to the booster and then across. If I can keep the rubber line to a minimum and as much space as possible from the exhaust manifold, it should work. I hope. I have some heat shield material if it looks like it needs it.

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SparkyB · Post by **SparkyB** » Sun Jun 18, 2017 9:36 pm

I did a Lokar kick down cable and ditched the factory stuff. I'll try and get pics in the morning. Didn't have a lot of the connections you're messing with since mine was a non egr edelbrock manifold.

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